sealed vs vented enlcosure

[TeamHT]

My dad taught me everything I yes

[D_outlaw]

Well I guess Rockford fosgate designed it and I cut it up and put it together It sounds pretty good right now with alot of different types of music im going to try a hfi1500.1d see how the sub handles it with that much more watts getting ran to it

[TeamHT]

Would honestly rather see an AQ750 or AQ1200 on it if you're set on getting a different amp. Or you could spend $15-$30 on a beast design from RAM and get best bang for buck. Cheapest thing to upgrade, like previously stated.

[D_outlaw]

I would buy a different brand amp but other amps are very expensive and hifonics might not be even close to the best they've always treated me pretty good for the price they do bang & sound pretty good

[TeamHT]

My clamps of the HFI2500 and 2000 did not do rated. I highly doubt the smaller ones won't either. HFI1000 has a single 80amp fuse and the 1500 2x70amp fuses.

[elastic]

sealed boxes do have their place. it can get loud too.

ive had two 15 l7s sealed and i could do windowflexing of stores.

[AmericanLegend]

Vented boxes definitely get louder and can get deeper inside the car (if designed properly), but you have to look at your speaker to see what kind of box it likes.

There is a factor called the EPB (efficiency bandwidth product) that comes from the fs (resonant frequency of the sub) and the qes (electrical damping factor). The EPB is the Fs/Qes. If this calculated number is less than 50, then your sub may like a sealed enclosure. If it is above 50, then don't even think about putting that sub in a sealed box. Do yourself a favor and get a proper ported box design. Your sub will thank you for it (but your trunk might hate it lol)...

Also, google 'roll-off characteristics for sealed enclosure' and see why a sealed can sometimes make deeper bass.

[Quiet]

Vented boxes definitely get louder and can get deeper inside the car (if designed properly), but you have to look at your speaker to see what kind of box it likes.

There is a factor called the EPB (efficiency bandwidth product) that comes from the fs (resonant frequency of the sub) and the qes (electrical damping factor). The EPB is the Fs/Qes. If this calculated number is less than 50, then your sub may like a sealed enclosure. If it is above 50, then don't even think about putting that sub in a sealed box. Do yourself a favor and get a proper ported box design. Your sub will thank you for it (but your trunk might hate it lol)...

Also, google 'roll-off characteristics for sealed enclosure' and see why a sealed can sometimes make deeper bass.

^ This.

This is probably the best response in this thread, not typical for someone with 43 posts here LOL. Yeah it sounds really technical but he's right. If you take the Thiele/Small params of your sub and put them into a program that will graph your response curve (like WinISD) then you can see the effects that changing your enclosure will make.

For my sub, even though EPB is 46 I went ported. It sounds pretty tight and WinISD modeled a group delay less than 20 ms at tuning, so I'm good. I also have a 5.1db advantage on ported over sealed from 55hz all the way down to subsonic. I also tuned pretty damn low, 29 hz, but it's still better than sealed.

All in all, ported is generally better for getting loud. Sure, sealed can get loud too, but take the same sub and put it in a proper vented enclosure and watch it slam the old sealed box you had. I think your friend is pushing sealed just because he hasn't been able to build a good vented enclosure.

If you built your sub to 1/16th of the manufacturer spec'd box, then you're doing way better than sealed.

[D_outlaw]

Ya just a chalk box tape measure and a table saw for all my cuts lol in the owner manual a vented box ( tuning is 38 hz) is the high output box than a ported box (tuning is 32 hz) is the optimum box so does that mean a ported box would have a lot better sound just not as loud