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Big 3...bypassing The Fuse Box?


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Its easier to simply add to it and it keeps the noobs from screwing up their factory stuff.

So it really wouldnt hurt anything? I cant see how it would. Was kinda wondering also if anyone has done it? Probably not tho I guess, since the more wire the better.

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Well I drew this to make sure sure I wont have a problem.....Big3diagram3.jpg

Will having the amp 0 gauge and the Alt 0 gauge together on the "T" going into the battery be bad? Its common sense, but the alt current will be going to the battery and the battery current will be going into the amp.....Just wana make sure that wont screw anything up.

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you'll be okay with doing it how the sketch shows bro. just be sure to mount that distribution somewhere so he wont fly around. using 1/0 to wire up the alt - battery and from the battery to amp will be okay. check my old underhood out ............. although it's changed but this is before i change it. i'm overseas and i didn't download the new setup onto photobucket. anyways 1/0 red wire is going to the back amps, well it's now attached to my + terminal with a 1/0 gauge fuse holder with a 300 amp fuse fuse inside of it. the factory wire connecting to the fuseholder in the picture got rerouted to the + battery side post. the 1/0 going from the positive terminal in the picture to the old fuseholder got eliminated. the blue 1/0 gauge that you see in the picture running along the red 1/0 runs to my alternator. let's just say i got the ideal in this picture from meade when he did the Lincoln Navi ....... since both trucks have the same alike underhood structure. and yes i love the red, blue and gray look underhood.

th_redgrayandblue.jpg

Edited by dmanson

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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Ok cool. So when its in that "T" the current will still get to the battery from the alt and then out to the amp...cause the way it looks it seems like the alt will just be hooked up to the amp, haha.

you are correct bro. you are on the ball with this man. but i have to say though ......... if you ever upgrade your battery down the road, get one with side post. you can see from my install how i did it and the side posts helped out a ton.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took most of my factory 8 guage out, but Im not a newb, most of mine was corroded pretty good so I just said fuck it and took out what I didnt need, I also ran a 1/0 to my factory fuse block and removed the old 8ga IMO you can never have enough power so I wired it all up in 1/0 lol

Got Wire?

100_1630.jpg

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I took most of my factory 8 guage out, but Im not a newb, most of mine was corroded pretty good so I just said fuck it and took out what I didnt need, I also ran a 1/0 to my factory fuse block and removed the old 8ga IMO you can never have enough power so I wired it all up in 1/0 lol

Got Wire?

100_1630.jpg

Haha nice. Thats what my shits gonna look like if I end up doing this Big 3......I just gotta find all the wires :unsure:

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