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Second Skin Audio

Blown sub?


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Even a blown sub will read something on a meter usually.... Maybe a tinsel lead snapped on it? What amp were you powering it with?

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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The only way it could read 0 would be either misuse of DMM, or the coil is open somewhere. Like said earlier, busted leads or somehow a completely separated coil(s)

'11 Jeep Patriot New Build

Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD

Front: Massive CK69 Components

Front Amp: Massive NX2

Rears: Infinity Kappa's

Subs: 8 Sundown SA-8 v2's

Sub Amp: AB 450.1

XS D3100

Come on 150!

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try testing the tinsel leads closer to the cone if you can, might be a bad joint somewhere near the frame or wherever your testing from.

also you could put a 9 volt battery (one of those small flashlight/remote control ones..) across the coil terminals. If the sub moves at all you're probably measuring something wrong.

Edited by STEvil

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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