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Popping noise from speakers when brakes are applied


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Loose connection somewhere. Double check all of your sub wires / speaker wires both going into the speaker and out of the head unit / amp

Then check your power and ground connections

Also check your RCAs if you use them

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Loose connection somewhere. Double check all of your sub wires / speaker wires both going into the speaker and out of the head unit / amp

Then check your power and ground connections

Also check your RCAs if you use them

^^^^^this

But also check fuse holder connections they are notorious for loose or bad connections. Look to make sure everything at the fuse holder connections are all flat and tight, i've seen them be really tight just not completely flat and that will cause problems.

145.9@40hz

145.3@34hz

big 3

X2 group 34

Deka Group 31

All 0/1 awg jl meta wire

Alpine CDA 7894

Orion HCCA D5000

2 AQ HDC312's

Crunch gpv1100.2 (for 6.5"s only)

AQ pro audio 6.5" - 3 sets

AQ supertweeters - 2 sets

2000 Slamry

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I've actually been having a similar problem that was getting worse and worse. It started out as a whining noise that went up in pitch with the RPM of the engine. It would get really bad sometimes and I could feel it from my subs. I've narrowed the source of the problem to the head unit, as the noise varies depending on the source (CD, Aux, USB, Radio). I pulled it out of the dash to check my connections and it got much better, like it was before with just a subtle whine. I still haven't figured out exactly what it was, but at its worst, I could tap my brake and make the speakers pop, too.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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Do you own a pioneer?

this, the infamous pico fuse

also, are you running them off the h/u? or off an amp? change your ground, or if your using your h/u ground your h/u with a star washer and a self tapping screw insted of just hooking it up to the wiring harness

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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Do you own a pioneer?

this, the infamous pico fuse

also, are you running them off the h/u? or off an amp? change your ground, or if your using your h/u ground your h/u with a star washer and a self tapping screw insted of just hooking it up to the wiring harness

It's a fuse?

I'm running everything off a dual amp setup. I checked my ground and it SEEMED fine...but I could try a different location just to see if there's a change. My head unit ground is hooked up to the wiring harness, but the connection is pretty solid...of course I don't know what ground the factory harness has. I'll check it out. Thanks for the suggestion.

Do you own a pioneer?

If you're talking to me, yes.

Try grounding the outer ring of your rca's to the chassis of your h/u this usually corrects the issue

I know this probably sounds stupid, but how to you ground the RCA's?

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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