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worked at a glass shop back in the day and yes most windsheilds are just a hair over 1/4 inch thick, theres 2 layers of glass with a thin layer of laminite in between, some windsheilds are 3/8 but its really rare to fins them.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily?

you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out.

wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck.

some glass installers let you request a glass company (Pilkington, APTECH, etc.)...but it just can't be from a dealership unless your truck is within 2 years old....or unless you want to pay the difference that insurance won't cover. let the insurance company know what happened and they might cover it....also, laminated glass won't shatter, just spider and crack. Something has to be strong enough to get through both layers of glass + the laminate for any actual pieces to break off.

i really hope they do cover it but my dad is going to have my ass for this happening. "you listen to your music too loud, whats the point in listening it that loud" smh. I loved the stock windshield that came with my truck. My truck is an 04 and the windshield that was on prior to the replacement had wiper blade scratch marks and tons of little nicks in the glass but it was fine. Last month a pretty good size pebble hit my windshield and put a tiny crack on the glass that is about the size of a rca connector so me and my dad called it into the insurance company. the part that sucks is that my dad called the insurance company before i could hit the windshield with a rubber mallet to try and make the micro crack bigger than a dollar bill so that they would have to replace the glass. Well we hit the spot on the glass really hard, in fact we hit it so hard that it made the inside mirror fall down and you could see the glass bending in and out but it never cracked out any further.

The windshield that is on there now sounds a lot thinner than the oem one that my truck came with and it also doesnt go down as far on my windshield as the stock one did. I am by no means happy with this shitty glass repair job.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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worked at a glass shop back in the day and yes most windsheilds are just a hair over 1/4 inch thick, theres 2 layers of glass with a thin layer of laminite in between, some windsheilds are 3/8 but its really rare to fins them.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily?

you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out.

wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck.

some glass installers let you request a glass company (Pilkington, APTECH, etc.)...but it just can't be from a dealership unless your truck is within 2 years old....or unless you want to pay the difference that insurance won't cover. let the insurance company know what happened and they might cover it....also, laminated glass won't shatter, just spider and crack. Something has to be strong enough to get through both layers of glass + the laminate for any actual pieces to break off.

i really hope they do cover it but my dad is going to have my ass for this happening. "you listen to your music too loud, whats the point in listening it that loud" smh. I loved the stock windshield that came with my truck. My truck is an 04 and the windshield that was on prior to the replacement had wiper blade scratch marks and tons of little nicks in the glass but it was fine. Last month a pretty good size pebble hit my windshield and put a tiny crack on the glass that is about the size of a rca connector so me and my dad called it into the insurance company. the part that sucks is that my dad called the insurance company before i could hit the windshield with a rubber mallet to try and make the micro crack bigger than a dollar bill so that they would have to replace the glass. Well we hit the spot on the glass really hard, in fact we hit it so hard that it made the inside mirror fall down and you could see the glass bending in and out but it never cracked out any further.

The windshield that is on there now sounds a lot thinner than the oem one that my truck came with and it also doesnt go down as far on my windshield as the stock one did. I am by no means happy with this shitty glass repair job.

yeah man, then Id definitely let them know. it could have been set a little higher then the original so it looks shorter too.

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

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They definitely did not set it up too high as if you look in between the defroster vents that are on the outside of the window between the wiper arms there are two stop blocks below them that the stock window rested right up against the bottom lip. The new windshield is far from that spot by about 3/4 of a inch. Im going to bite the bullet and see how much my dad bitches me out for it but maybe we can get something better than the shitty window they put on there.

If i get the window replaced (i really think i am going to) what would you recommend i use to put that damn rearview mirror on and keep it there? I tried the same adhesive they use to hold the windshield down on the track with, the extreme strength windshield adhesive from advance automotive, and recently krazy glue. The glue sticks to the back of the button with no problem but all the other times it never stuck to the damn windshield except for this time where about 1/2 of the mirrors button stuck to the window and cracked a piece of the glass off and the other half did not stick to the window.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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They definitely did not set it up too high as if you look in between the defroster vents that are on the outside of the window between the wiper arms there are two stop blocks below them that the stock window rested right up against the bottom lip. The new windshield is far from that spot by about 3/4 of a inch. Im going to bite the bullet and see how much my dad bitches me out for it but maybe we can get something better than the shitty window they put on there.

If i get the window replaced (i really think i am going to) what would you recommend i use to put that damn rearview mirror on and keep it there? I tried the same adhesive they use to hold the windshield down on the track with, the extreme strength windshield adhesive from advance automotive, and recently krazy glue. The glue sticks to the back of the button with no problem but all the other times it never stuck to the damn windshield except for this time where about 1/2 of the mirrors button stuck to the window and cracked a piece of the glass off and the other half did not stick to the window.

the new piece of glass comes with the mirror button already glued on. only thing they should have to do is slide the mirror on. but for future reference, my company uses Loctite 03346 Rearview Mirror adhesive kit to glue any buttons back on. take the button and scratch off all the old adhesive with a razorblade. then use the spray on the button and wipe it off. then clean the glass area with the razorblade and also spray it and wipe it off. then, spray the button and let it tack, spray the glass, let it tack. apply the glue to the button and hold it against the glass for around 30 seconds. leave it to dry for 3-5 minutes. and it should be fine.

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

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Yea this glass didnt have the button glued on before they installed it. In fact i know it wasnt on because the button for the mirror had a cut in it when i took the mirror off before to clean the whole window easier and it had a dent in it where the screw held into the button and a little stamp on it. The first time it fell off the adhesive that was on there was almost like taking a piece of bubble gum and sticking that behind the button and holding it on. That one fell off when i adjusted the mirror. The other times it fell off when i had my music up. The part that surprised me about the new windshield is that the black area that supposedly blocks uv radiation from weakening the adhesive was between the glass panels. The oem window had it on the inside so if you were to feel the black strip for the mirror and those stupid dots across the top of the window it would be almost like a matte finish and to me would hold the glue on better.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Yea this glass didnt have the button glued on before they installed it. In fact i know it wasnt on because the button for the mirror had a cut in it when i took the mirror off before to clean the whole window easier and it had a dent in it where the screw held into the button and a little stamp on it. The first time it fell off the adhesive that was on there was almost like taking a piece of bubble gum and sticking that behind the button and holding it on. That one fell off when i adjusted the mirror. The other times it fell off when i had my music up. The part that surprised me about the new windshield is that the black area that supposedly blocks uv radiation from weakening the adhesive was between the glass panels. The oem window had it on the inside so if you were to feel the black strip for the mirror and those stupid dots across the top of the window it would be almost like a matte finish and to me would hold the glue on better.

thats weird, for only a few instances (some subarus and lexus) you have to change the button, but it should have come with it on...and it should be their responsibility to glue it on if it isn't there; thats part of the install.

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

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