MatthewSladeBrake Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Hello everyone! I'm currently about to do the big three upgrade and I have two questions. 1. Would it be smart to do two runs of the big three upgrade or would this just be wasted wire? Basically two runs of positive alternator to positive battery, two grounds from the negative battery terminal to engine block, and two grounds from the negative terminal on the battery to the chassis. 2. Do I really need an inline fuse from the alternator to the battery? I've read a lot about it but my alternator can only put out 140 amps at maximum output. If I do not need to do the big three upgrade twice, would it be safe to run two runs of 0 gauge wire to a distribution block to the back and then from the other side of the distribution block a run of 4 gauge wire to my amplifier with the inline fuse in that wire? The reason I ask this is because a lot of owners of the Hifonics HFi2000D amplifier I'm buying complain of current draw so I figure running the two runs of 0 gauge to this distribution block (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16823_Stinger-SPD814-Gold.html) and then doing a short run of 4 gauge with the 200 amp inline fuse from the distribution block to the amplifier would help with the current draw. Thanks for any and all help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Hello everyone! I'm currently about to do the big three upgrade and I have two questions. 1. Would it be smart to do two runs of the big three upgrade or would this just be wasted wire? Basically two runs of positive alternator to positive battery, two grounds from the negative battery terminal to engine block, and two grounds from the negative terminal on the battery to the chassis. 2. Do I really need an inline fuse from the alternator to the battery? I've read a lot about it but my alternator can only put out 140 amps at maximum output. If I do not need to do the big three upgrade twice, would it be safe to run two runs of 0 gauge wire to a distribution block to the back and then from the other side of the distribution block a run of 4 gauge wire to my amplifier with the inline fuse in that wire? The reason I ask this is because a lot of owners of the Hifonics HFi2000D amplifier I'm buying complain of current draw so I figure running the two runs of 0 gauge to this distribution block (http://www.sonicelec...PD814-Gold.html) and then doing a short run of 4 gauge with the 200 amp inline fuse from the distribution block to the amplifier would help with the current draw. Thanks for any and all help! Point 2 Fuse iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttttttttttt. I like it to quote Steve for this theme again, "use fuses in case of carbeque" Rockford Fosgate magazin. Quote "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRTC360 Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 answer to question 1. imo it would be wasted wire as I highly doubt you have a 350+ amp alternator which is what most single runs of zero gauge are good for. 2. the reason for the inline fuse is to protect your cars electrical system in the case that there were some sort of short. it's not necessary but you can never be too careful. 3. if you have the money and plan on upgrading to a bigger system in the future go ahead and do both of the zero gauge runs to the distro block then a short run of 4 gauge to the amp should be fine. Quote '93 Firebird Formula V8 H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395 Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4 Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0 G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator www.youtube.com/TRTC360 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Why not run 0 gauge straight to the amp? Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjN Posted December 25, 2011 Report Share Posted December 25, 2011 Why not run 0 gauge straight to the amp? What does that have to do with the big 3? Quote 2x sundown audio sa 12's Crescendo BC2000 kinetik 1800, 1400. Rockford punch 5,25 component set MB QUART ONYX 4.80 Mechman 270a alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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