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Sonic Electronix

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Agree ^ instead of cap put a secondary battery that will help with the voltage. :good:

Build Under Construction

Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514

Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4

Battery = XS D3400

Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger

Mids and Highs = Stock

Sub= Kicker L7 12"

Alternator = 220 Mechman

Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill

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Agree ^ instead of cap put a secondary battery that will help with the voltage. :good:

Not sure if he would need a second battery with a 1000 watt amp and a 240a alt. Wouldn't hurt though. The more the merrier :santa:

I would say to ditch the yellow top and get an XS power / Kinetik. The yellow top's resting voltage is 12.4v, while the other batteries I just listed are closer to 13v. That would certainly help with voltage too

Edited by SnowDrifter
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Guest DC Power Kyle

Good battery bank and a quality alternator that can keep up with your stereo is the key to being "loud" along with your box design, sub choice and all that good stuff.

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And when I do the big 3 I should run 0 gauge right? Do I meed a certain type of battery terminals? One with voltage?

yes 0 gauge is the prefered gauge of wire to use. and no. just as long as your terminals can hold the 0 gauge properly

and for distortion, do you mean something like the SMD DD-1 that can detect distortion?

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Well my car came with a jbl audio package and has a amp built in to mmiss and highs. But when I turn it up alot it kinda distorts. I have 2 type r for back and type s for front but didn't know where to get speaker adapters cause they don't fit right and didnt know if I needed a bigger amp for them once I get them in.

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