Which wire?

[fox_racin4]

It is all ran on pass side into the bed, just running new wire now so tryin to figure out which is best

[Dax]

thats alot of wire, i would do the 10 runs of 1/0.

[audiofanaticz]

If you have 3 alts, Id say you would be fine with 3 runs of 3/0 pure copper welding cable vs 10 runs of TINNED copper ofc wire.

3/0 wire is going to also be able to handle well over 500 amps of current per run (and we know a single alternator is not going to produce that much current).

So if you had 3 alts, and did 1 run of 3/0 positive and negative from each alternator to the rear battery bank for a total of 6 runs, you should be more than happily over killed.

Also be sure to have each run of wire all equal lengths (even the grounds), to keep the flow of current even along all 6 wires. Other wise the current will travel the wire with least resistance which would be the shorter wires. And yes it does matter, especially when your in a single battery setup with over 40 runs of 1/0gauge wiring.

[speeddemon0308]

the we have buss bars upfront and in the bed on the batteries, the way we have it wired went as so

3+ runs from front buss bars to the rear, 3 runs OFF the alts ( one from each ) into the rear, a power run off each alt, to the front buss bar. for a total of 6 or so runs of positive into the rear, 4 or 5 ground runs from buss bar to the batts. then engine grounds, and front buss bar grounds to the frame. and then grounded the batts in the rear to the frame also.

[SnowDrifter]

The 6 runs of 0/3 gauge would have 510sqmm of total cross sectional area

While 10 runs of 0 gauge would have 535sqmm of cross sectional area.

So I would say go 10 runs on 0 gauge

[audiofanaticz]

The 6 runs of 0/3 gauge would have 510sqmm of total cross sectional area

While 10 runs of 0 gauge would have 535sqmm of cross sectional area.

So I would say go 10 runs on 0 gauge

If your numbers are correct, now do the math for price. lol is the hugly added cost for the 0/1 beneficial to gain a whole 25 sq mm?? ummm NOPE!

However, depending on the brand 0/1 wire the poster would be using would make a huge difference since some brand wires like stinger tsunami has less wire/more casing compared to something like Knukonceptz fleks, Kicker hyperflex, RF wiring, or XS Power wiring (which are considered over sized 0/1, but still sell for the same price per foot retail)

and see if the extra few hundred for 10 runs of tinned ofc 0/1 is worth it VS a 3/0 welding cable that is pure ofc copper with no tinning.

Unless you have 1500 amps( five 300amp alternators, assuming you use 5 runs for positive and 5 runs for negative) worth of alternators under your hood. 10 runs of 0/1 wire is not practical when you will never be able to use the wire anywhere near its full potential amperage load, while spending more money for more wire, and having to run all the extra wire..

So again assuming 10 runs of 0/1 are being used as 5 runs of positive, and 5 runs of negative equaling 10 total runs (at least Id hope that is the way he is thinking, otherwise making it even more wasteful to not upgrade the grounding).

5 runs of 0/1 wire is capable of 300 amps of current (maybe a bit more depending on brand wire).

5 X 300 = 1500 + amps of current on the high side and again, the other 5 runs being used for negative.

3 runs of 3/0 wire is capable of well over 500 amps (closer to 600 amps of current), but we will lose the low side being 500amps per run of 3/0 just to give the 5 runs of 0/1 a fighting chance..

3 X 500 = 1500+ amps of current on the extremely underrated side, 1800+ amps of current on the high side.

Also the cost of the wire will most likely be a lot cheaper because it is not branded car audio wire and have a huge inflation price due to the brand name. It will be quicker to install due to having less runs, and less of a inconvenience trying to find room for 10 full runs (if it its ran underneath).

As I said way above, the brand of the 0/1 wire your thinking about plays a huge role.

EDIT: Now if you are driving a Honda CRX and its a burp only car for Street A or B, then your best off getting as many equal length runs of wire as possible since your are limited to 1 800 cubic inch battery underneath the hood, and the car must not be running when you are competing in the lanes. but otherwise I dont see the benefits of 10 runs at all, unless your giving the wire for free.

Edited January 11, 2012 by Audiofanaticz

[speeddemon0308]

it will be 1/o welding cable

[fox_racin4]

The 6 runs of 0/3 gauge would have 510sqmm of total cross sectional area

While 10 runs of 0 gauge would have 535sqmm of cross sectional area.

So I would say go 10 runs on 0 gauge

If your numbers are correct, now do the math for price. lol is the hugly added cost for the 0/1 beneficial to gain a whole 25 sq mm?? ummm NOPE!

However, depending on the brand 0/1 wire the poster would be using would make a huge difference since some brand wires like stinger tsunami has less wire/more casing compared to something like Knukonceptz fleks, Kicker hyperflex, RF wiring, or XS Power wiring (which are considered over sized 0/1, but still sell for the same price per foot retail)

and see if the extra few hundred for 10 runs of tinned ofc 0/1 is worth it VS a 3/0 welding cable that is pure ofc copper with no tinning.

Unless you have 1500 amps( five 300amp alternators, assuming you use 5 runs for positive and 5 runs for negative) worth of alternators under your hood. 10 runs of 0/1 wire is not practical when you will never be able to use the wire anywhere near its full potential amperage load, while spending more money for more wire, and having to run all the extra wire..

So again assuming 10 runs of 0/1 are being used as 5 runs of positive, and 5 runs of negative equaling 10 total runs (at least Id hope that is the way he is thinking, otherwise making it even more wasteful to not upgrade the grounding).

5 runs of 0/1 wire is capable of 300 amps of current (maybe a bit more depending on brand wire).

5 X 300 = 1500 + amps of current on the high side and again, the other 5 runs being used for negative.

3 runs of 3/0 wire is capable of well over 500 amps (closer to 600 amps of current), but we will lose the low side being 500amps per run of 3/0 just to give the 5 runs of 0/1 a fighting chance..

3 X 500 = 1500+ amps of current on the extremely underrated side, 1800+ amps of current on the high side.

Also the cost of the wire will most likely be a lot cheaper because it is not branded car audio wire and have a huge inflation price due to the brand name. It will be quicker to install due to having less runs, and less of a inconvenience trying to find room for 10 full runs (if it its ran underneath).

As I said way above, the brand of the 0/1 wire your thinking about plays a huge role.

EDIT: Now if you are driving a Honda CRX and its a burp only car for Street A or B, then your best off getting as many equal length runs of wire as possible since your are limited to 1 800 cubic inch battery underneath the hood, and the car must not be running when you are competing in the lanes. but otherwise I dont see the benefits of 10 runs at all, unless your giving the wire for free.

From what i got out of that...lol 10 1/0 runs should be more then enough for 900a of alt power? Lol

I bought 200f of 1/0 welding cavle got it for $2.10 a foot.. Pretty good deal pure copper