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Box Tuning for Dummies?


Yelladawg351

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you tune to a freq like 32hz, that is almost a irrelevant number due to the cabin gain and environment which the speaker is in. Just because it is tuned to 32 doesn't mean 32 will be the loudest. Its like the whole deal over tuned to 36hz, peak at 42hz. Yes is does have something to do with freq response but the number itself doesn't refer to any real change (or peak) in the response curve.

edit: spelling

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Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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you tune to a freq like 32hz, that is almost a irrelevant number due to the cabin gain and environment which the speaker is in. Just because it is tuned to 32 doesn't mean 32 will be the loudest. Its like the whole deal over tuned to 36hz, peak at 42hz. Yes is does have something to do with freq response but the number itself doesn't refer to any real change (or peak) in the response curve.

edit: spelling

I had a box tuned to 34hz and a box tuned to 37hz both in my trunk and peaked at 49hz so i understand what you're talking about.

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I'm jus tired of the science aspect of box building but it plays a role. Sealed boxes are to easy but leaves your sub wanting more output, if it was designed for sealed then your option-less. Ok thanx for the understanding. I'll worry about the important things in life like amplifier output and voltage holdings of your electrical system.

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if i were you, id just find somebody on here that will design a box for you. tell them your listening habits and what you want from the box. theyll design it, you'll build it, youll be happy. simple as that.

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if i were you, id just find somebody on here that will design a box for you. tell them your listening habits and what you want from the box. theyll design it, you'll build it, youll be happy. simple as that.

I agree with u on that but cars, suv's, trucks are different in cabin gain. So trial and error plays a significant role in box building.

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a sealed box might even be good for you. you probably wont get the output that you would from a ported or bandpass but you will get tight clean bass that is perfect for rock. And if the sealed box is tuned correctly you can play well with the lows aswel. its not that the sub isn't preforming to its ful potential its just a different way of moving the air and sound waves.

DO you have subs or an amp already and just trying to get a box together? or are you trying to find a box and then pic your sub/amp? because, like said before, you sub selection is important but even a $500 sub wont play properly in a poorly designed box. So There really isn't a type of sub that is best for the music you like to listen to, unless you are going pure SQ, then there are brands that will be better than others for that application.

edit: You cant really say it doesnt matter what you tune your box to because of your cabin peak is different that what you want, a box tuned to 40hz is going to hit different frequencies better than a box tuned to 30hz in the same car, same powe,r and same sub.

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if i were you, id just find somebody on here that will design a box for you. tell them your listening habits and what you want from the box. theyll design it, you'll build it, youll be happy. simple as that.

I agree with u on that but cars, suv's, trucks are different in cabin gain. So trial and error plays a significant role in box building.

bigger than you think, especially if you are going for numbers.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Not completely true. I am curently tuned to 29hz, but my best sounding frequency is around 18-20hz. And my range is fonominal and super clean and clear.

What sounds the loudest and what meters the loudest are two different things.

Port tuning is the frequency the sound will actually come from the port. A port is a Helmholtz resonator. Excursion of the sub becomes a minimum at the tuned frequency, and the sound is generated through the port.

As far as output at tuning vs. other frequencies - that will depend on the alignment you chose for the enclosure (there are other factors, but we are just talking about the box design right now). Box size, driver parameters, and port tuning work together to create the frequency response. Designs can be created to extend the low frequency response while sacrificing output, but most car applications create a peak in the frequency response just above tuning. This sacrifices some low end frequency response, but the natural boost of low frequencies refered to as cabin gain in a car make up for it.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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