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how many db's will another set gain


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Thanks man!!!

07' 6.7 mega cab

H&S mini maxx

DPF/EGR delete

5" TBE

4.5" Fabtech

35" nittio trail grapplers

20" BMF novakane's

Kenwood KIV-700

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP

2-MB Quart 4.80

3-Polk Audio MM6501

ProBox DMC212L-1000 144db @45hz

Viper 5901

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It is definitely worth your time. Try this out.... Disconnect your tweets from your crossovers (So that you're running mids only.) Play it full tilt.

Then your comparison:

Bypass the crossovers by hooking the speaker wire straight to the mids. Use wire nuts or whatever other temporary means you have just to see if you notice a difference or not. Make sure your Bass is flat or negative in the 50 hertz range on your deck. Once you've bypassed your crossover, SLOWLY turn it up keeping in mind that you have no safeguard against blowing your speakers. See if it makes a difference. I'm not responsible for your blown speakers. Do it at your own risk.

Your system won't sound the same without the tweets, but I have a feeling your mids will have more power without the crossover, and I can hope that your tweets would in turn do the same thing without a crossover. Some crossovers are better than others, so the difference might be minimal, or the difference might be huge... Worth a try though.

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Well doubling cone area or power is THEORETICALLY good for +3db. IMO for a noticeable difference you are going to need some significant upgrades.

haha he is talking about his front stage...

you do know all frequencies can be measured in db, right?

You are right. All frequencies can be measured in decibels. You are wrong in the sense that doubling power will increase output by 3db. That statement doesn't take into account mechanical limitations. Once a

Speaker has reached its mechanical capabilities, or starts getting close to them, output doesnt increase. On the rare occassion that statement might be true, but it normally doesn't happen 'by the book' like that. Highs are even more tricky than substage too when it comes to increases in output.

Listen numnuts. Every bit of my statement is correct. Did you not see that I wrote "THEORETICALLY" in big capital letters? Power compression and what-not are great points, but are certainly beyond the scope of this discussion. The point I was trying to get across was that the minimal "upgrade" will not result in anything I would call significantly better results, which your post proved even further.

To the OP: It might be time to start considering some more efficient speakers. If you have the ability to go fully active, then pro audio might just be the way to go.

wow... you really took that one up the ass didnt you? he disagreed with you rather politely and you call him numbnuts and fire back rudely. calm down.

OP, its cool those two amps fit under the seat like that but air flow is the most important part of cooling. flip that bottom one right side up so the heatsink can function better and get as much space as you can between the two amps under there. it'll prolong the life of your amps.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

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Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

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Here is how I would run active in your situation. Being that your amps don't have a low pass filter that can be set high enough, you will have to let the mids play with just a high pass. With the awkward impedances of your speakers, the only way I can really see to run everything is in series and bridged.

This would be assuming that your drivers themselves have a 2.7 ohm impedance. You should first check to see the impedance of the drivers themselves with a DMM. If they are not ~2.7 ohms at the driver itself, then this method won't be the best. If they are 4 ohms a piece then there is an easier way to do it.

Anyway...

You will need to get 4 RCA Y splitters, ones with one female in, and two male outs.

Run your rear RCAs to one amp, run your front RCAs to the other.

The one with the rear RCAs will be for the mids, the one with the front RCAs will be for the tweeters.

Now hook up the RCAs with the Y-connectors at the amps. put one on the RCA cable for the left side, hook it up to channels 1&2 on the amp. Do the same for the right side RCA and hook it up to channels 3&4. Repeat for the other amp.

Take all 3 mids from the left side and wire them in series to get 8 ohms, then wire them, bridged, to channels 1&2 on the mids amp. Repeat for the right side ones, wiring them bridged to channels 3&4 on the mids amp. Do the same for the tweeters and tweeters amp.

Set and match all gains.

Set all filters to high pass. Set the high pass filters for the mids at ~120Hz, set the high pass filters for the tweeters at ~3500Hz. Be sure to not set the high pass filter on the tweeters too low though.

Each driver should see about 50 watts that way, should get pretty loud.

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The low pass on the amp is 30hz-250hz....it looks like I have some options here and I can't wait to see if there is a difference with out the crossover...if you need more info on the parts I can get them to you for the best wiring scenario for me to experiment with...

As for the amp I think it has some breathing room but had no idea that it is not good upside down, its hard to tell in the pic but it can breath

photoj.jpg

Also I think I am hitting each component with about 125wrms....I know I have mentioned this but the amp is 160wrms at 2ohms....and 80wrms at 4ohms....

I think this is why I never messed with the mids and highs in the pass to much cause it can get deeply confusing....

again thanks a bunch for the info and replies.

07' 6.7 mega cab

H&S mini maxx

DPF/EGR delete

5" TBE

4.5" Fabtech

35" nittio trail grapplers

20" BMF novakane's

Kenwood KIV-700

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP

2-MB Quart 4.80

3-Polk Audio MM6501

ProBox DMC212L-1000 144db @45hz

Viper 5901

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That's crazy cause that was not the pic I posted....anyways which wire are you talking about??? The speaker wire (yes) the power wire (no)....I live in a small town and have limited access to good parts....gotta make due with what you have...

07' 6.7 mega cab

H&S mini maxx

DPF/EGR delete

5" TBE

4.5" Fabtech

35" nittio trail grapplers

20" BMF novakane's

Kenwood KIV-700

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP

2-MB Quart 4.80

3-Polk Audio MM6501

ProBox DMC212L-1000 144db @45hz

Viper 5901

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Share on other sites

That's crazy cause that was not the pic I posted....anyways which wire are you talking about??? The speaker wire (yes) the power wire (no)....I live in a small town and have limited access to good parts....gotta make due with what you have...

*being sarcastic* That's what the internet is for, besides porn. lo0l

New build coming soon. [center][url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/3/sigtoo.jpg/"][img]http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9541/sigtoo.jpg[/img][/url][/center]

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HAHA....ok my phone shows a different pic...this is the correct pic and yep that is walmart power wire feeding my 2 mb quarts....I was hoping no one would see that...LOL

07' 6.7 mega cab

H&S mini maxx

DPF/EGR delete

5" TBE

4.5" Fabtech

35" nittio trail grapplers

20" BMF novakane's

Kenwood KIV-700

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP

2-MB Quart 4.80

3-Polk Audio MM6501

ProBox DMC212L-1000 144db @45hz

Viper 5901

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Share on other sites

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