Mha Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Im sure this has been asked but would it not be better to just run straight 0 gauge ofc ground wire to the amp? Im guessing not because I have never heard anyone doing it But could someone tell me why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosho47 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I have question... if you are upgrading the positive wire from the alt. to the battery, would it be okay to upgrade the alternator ground also? And instead of grounding the battery to the chasis, Would it make a difference if it be mounted onto the frame? Or would it be okay to ground the battery to the chasis and frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I have question... if you are upgrading the positive wire from the alt. to the battery, would it be okay to upgrade the alternator ground also? And instead of grounding the battery to the chasis, Would it make a difference if it be mounted onto the frame? Or would it be okay to ground the battery to the chasis and frame? i found it better to ground to both more grounds cant hurt but if you have to choose chassis or frame i would choose frame and most people up grade the alt ground as well in the big 3 most stock grounds or 8 gauge or less on the wire anyway http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALEX 323 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 sorry double post aka KHRISS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALEX 323 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 i needed this tutorial thanks aka KHRISS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosho47 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I was watching the tutorial on youtube. What is the difference between grounding the engine block to the chasis compared to grounding to the battery? The reason I am asking all these questions is because on my old setup I have done the big 3 (mounted the engine block wire directly to the frame) before BUT with no battery up front and two yellow tops in the bed. I have been having issues with my batteries draining even after a couple of days sitting. I have start up my engine for my alternator to charge the batteries but did the same thing. I had my alternator checked and it was good. Now, I have upgraded my alt. to a mechman 270 amp alt. with (3) xs power d3100's that i will have mounted in my bed. They are not hooked up yet and wanted to find the problem first before I put the batteries in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Sounds like you have an issue with something not shutting off if your not playing and the truck is sitting and draining your batt. my understanding of grounding to the engingblock tk batt was for a better ground from the alt. please correct me if im wrong http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 The altenator grounds through the alt bracket and the engine block. That's why you upgrade the battery neg wire AND the engine block ground wire to the chassis/frame. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosho47 Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 so would you recommend grounding the engine block to the battery or to the frame/chasis? I'm trying to bypass running the engine block to the bed but if I have to, i'll jist end up doing it... i'll just have to order more 0 awg wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 You run a wire from the neg post on battery to the cassis/frame in the engine compartment, and then from the engine block to the same spot on the chassis/frame. So essentially your grounding the battery to the engine block and to the chassis/frame all at the same time in the same spot. I'll try and draw a diagram and post a picture. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.