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excuse me how the hell did i miss this!

your craftsmanship is unreal.

so i have a question how did you get the bondo to stick so well to the wood when you tin foiled the dash like that how did you get the bondo onto the back of the wooden rack you built? got i could ask questions all day i want to be able to do something as nice as that man its super nice i love it.

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excuse me how the hell did i miss this!

your craftsmanship is unreal.

so i have a question how did you get the bondo to stick so well to the wood when you tin foiled the dash like that how did you get the bondo onto the back of the wooden rack you built? got i could ask questions all day i want to be able to do something as nice as that man its super nice i love it.

Thanks man!

I took a dremel and cut gouges in the areas that got larger amounts of filler and also ruffed it up with 36 grit everywhere and cleaned it real well before i put it on. Body filler sticks pretty well to wood or MDF in this case. I wouldnt have done it this way if it would have been a piece under a lot of stress (such as a sub box) but the filler works nicely for this application. For transitions from filler and wood or other substrates for that matter, the feather fill is fantastic and can really even up surfaces and hold them down. Basically acts like a spray on body filler. I got the filler in behind the rack in a second application of filler. I basically got the front ruffly done and then tapped off the dash again and applied generous mounts on the edges and in the dash itself and just pushed it in and let it set up. When i pulled it out it was easy to tell what areas needed to be sanded off. Just started with the heavy grit stuff and worked down to the fine. Even used the table saw to cut some larger and unwanted pieces off before sanding. Table saw cuts body filler nicely just FYI.

BTW, Filler all by itself is ridiculously strong. I had some that had setup leftover and decided to see how tuff it was. Grabbed a mini sledge prob 5lbs and gave it a tap against the concrete floor...nothing, hit it harder, nothing and kept repeating this until i began to get concerned that i was going to crack the concrete. Eventually the hardened filler began to seperate from being flattened out, but it did not crack, more of a tear. I couldnt believe it. I guess filler has come a long way.

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fuck man i love it you the man lol

might have to take some filler into my box after hearing that lol

what kinda filler did you use??

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think it is evercoat light weight filler.

Keep in mind the filler is very strong, the bond to the wood, less so. Large amounts like I have used would be ok for an area that you know would not flex any. In your case im not sure there is a spot like that. LOL Thinner applications like it is designed for (less than a 1/4" thick) should be ok anywhere on the box though.

but seriously try my test on a puddle of hardened filler and see for yourself.

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ok cool thanks man i appreciate it

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Contact us for the best quality cables and accessories with the fastest shipping in the industry

EMAIL: [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>

LIKE US ON FB: https://www.facebook.com/SkyHighCarAudio

ADD ME ON FB: https://www.facebook.com/jon.rabe.1

MONSTER SKY HIGH/DC GMC: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127057-sky-high-monster-gmc-walk-through-12-lvl-5-15s-6-9ks-trim-panels-and-wiring-p-90/

 

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And then....It looks done but it is not. Still working on the brackets and motorization stuff but at least it looks nice now.

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IMG_1750 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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IMG_1754 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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IMG_1764 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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IMG_1768 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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IMG_1770 by rogueauto, on Flickr

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With the vents behind it'll be kept cool haha.

Cant wait to see the finished product

Look again, I ninja you. Oh but still not quite done on it...appearance wise it is. I may still change the color of black though, not sure I like the tone just yet.

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