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No, it's not a porn title... Long time since I've posted. About 8 years. Life hit hard and I'm just getting back on my feet and into some car audio again. So I've owned small Craigslist set ups over the past few years and I'm really wanting to finally just build and buy my own. I did a temporary cheap set up but am ready to plan a real one. I'm currently running a MOFO 10" powered by a planet audio trq3000. Probably 800 rms at most. Amp will be upgraded to a better quality amp. But that's not where I'm stuck. Where I'm stuck is finding the perfect 10". My box is currently at 2 cu ft with a 4" aero at 32 hz. My goal is to find a 10" that's better quality. I know 12s, 15s, and 18s would be better for lows but with the space I have, small is better and I like to be a little different. I'd like to stay around $200 for a 10" but may save another $100 if it's well worth it. Staying around 1k Watts rms and a sub that likes it low. I have a few brands in interested in but with being out for so long, idk what's what anymore. I'd be willing to build a new box too but can't get too big. Here's a few 10s I had picked out Skar evl-10 Seven SS1000 Massive summoxl 10 AB xfl 10 AB TNT 10 Dark audio DKI 10 PSI series 2 10" (with boosters) NEP advanced 10" Soundqubed HDS3 10 Thank you all! Feels good to be back into car audio.

Popped one of my Xl 18s last week and trying to see about a recone, not sure about the model of the sub itself. it looks fine but does not play and is very stiff, will not budge at all. Does anyone know a way of telling which Model it is, Either M1, M2, or M4? and should i get the other reconed so they are the same? any help would be greatly appreciated

Here we go with another build. This one won't be as slow as the Chevy TB and I'm excited for that. This vehicle is my work car so I work on it profusely week after week. I am hoping to get this one done by end month so until then here are my plans. If what you see sounds familiar it probably is, but I won't tell... Thanks everyone prematurely for the comments and hope to have some good reviews from this build. Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp Rockford Fosgate T-400/4 Audio Control Matrix Crescendo Symphony 5.25" Components Rockford Fosgate T1D410's Xs Power Kinetik Mechman OFC 1/0 Singer Alt Pioneer avic 4200NEX HU

Hey everyone! i have this old sub in my collection and i'm going to build a box for it in my truck, but i cannot for the life of me find the specs, after days of frustrating googles i can only find subs with the the 12 spoke basket. anyone have any info on this fella? is it the same specs as the 12 spoke?

Hey so I've only been having this issue since I switched out my subs and amplifier from a kenwood excelon set up to the rockford amp and subs. Whats happening is the amp BANGS all day no matter what at the lows but the moment it gets to a higher frequency seems like a punchier frequency (I wish i Knew what frequency it was but i Just know its not the low end probably way closer to 80hz), it goes into PROTECTION mode. I thought at first it wasn't getting enough voltage and my battery tested at 50% cause i do have a battery tester at our shop, so I changed my battery today and I'm still having the same issue. I know its not my wiring because i had no problems with others amps and subs ect. Rockfords support tech keeps saying its clipping at this certain frequency, which I'm not eliminating yet, but the thing is I have my gain set to just under 7, and it was still doing the same thing even when i had the gain set to under 5. and it doesnt hit nearly as hard as it should be unless i turn the gain closer to over half. I just want to know what i can eliminate and what i should try if you guys are familiar with this issue. If my amp is clipping why wouldnt it be clipping on the lows and only does it on the highs? Another thing is it hardly does it when I'm parked, mailny does it when I'm driving which is really irritating because I want it when I'm driving I could care less about being parked as this is just my daily driver. Any advice would help. The other 3 installers at my shop said battery and rockford only said clipping.. I also tested my alternator with our snap on tester and it also tested good. All that rockford said was too turn down the gain but I know those subs can handle what I'm giving them at least I would think.. Radio is outputting full 5.0 volts Gain = ~60% Lpf = ~25% Punch EQ = 0 subsonic filter = 50% 2005 Dodge Stratus 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D412s with RF R1200 Prime Amplifier 4 gauge rockford power and ground wire 12 gauge rf speaker wire down to 1 ohm Kenwood Exceleon kdc x501 subwoofer level set to +10 sub lpf set to through

I was wondering if it is okay to play my subs if they are metering 3.2 - 3.0 ohms right around there. they are normally 4 ohm the mtx audio thunder 7500 12. I have 2 wired down to 1 ohm and when wired at the amp Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200 it meters 1 ohm but if i meter the speakers separately when wired up they read 1.4. I'm just wondering if i do decide to hook them up should i wire them to 4 ohm or keep them at 1?

Hey Guys! I am thinking of buying some new subwoofers, and wanted to ask for your advices/recomendations on the ones I looked up. I kind of look for a pair of 12-s in the 400-460$ price range ( including shipping to midle Europe), and will be powered by a Hifonics Brutus BRX 2016.1D, and an XS Power D975 for now. So far I tought about getting one of these: 1) Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D4 12" 2) Alpine Type R SWR-12D4 3) Massive Audio TOROX124 12" I apprechiate any help in a form of an answer! Maybe if you have experience with any of them, or have a woofer that you would recomend for me feel free to share. THX!!

I’m buying 4 2ohm subs yet I’m putting them in two separate boxes I’m going to wire it down to 1 ohm but the problem is how would I do it since there’s two separate boxes?

Hello everyone, I didn't see any similar topics on forum so I thought I will open one.. So the point of this topic is to post your watt clamped results from your system. You can post pictures or just write.. It would be cool if you wrote your equipment: amplifier, subwoofer, box size and tuning, electrical and then post your clamped results. You can post a picture or video of your system too! If you don't know how to measure your watts look at this tutorial: http://ddaudio.com/faq/clamp-testing/ So let me begin. Amplifier: Hifoinics BXI6000D Subwoofer: Fi audio Q 15 wired to 1 ohm Box: 4cuft 32hz tuning Electrical: 2x 54ah battery & 75a alternator Clamp result: 1064 Watts (50 Hz)

Need 6 good 12s preferably 2000-2000+ rms for deal what do you guys have? Have 10 American bass xfl 1222s 5-6 good 4-5 blown ( if anyone wants to trade with cash on my end)

Hello guys, I'm wanting to start some kind of 2.1 home audio build. Nothing 7.1 ultra high tech. Just want some good ass mids and highs and a decent sub that does lows. Now I'm wondering, what kind of sub would be nice? I was thinking 250 watts to 500 watts of RMS should be enough to do well right? Anyways, that brings me to the next question. Are there any affordable mono's to power a suggested woofer? Anf what mids and highs would be nice, would I need a calculated enclosure for mids and highs? I'm new to home audio, would love some help. Thanks!

Im looking for a subwoofer either 8,10, or 12 inches with a low fs under 30. A qts between 5 and 5.6, also a decent xmax to support music down to 20 hz. I ask these requirements because i had 2 rockford p3 10s which i would buy again in a heartbeat if it werent for the fact that it can only go as low as 28 hz accord to sonicelectronix. i can vouch that it doesnt hit low notes without a loud sharp sound which i thought was coil hitting magnet. So the sub must also play down to 20 hz full power and be at or under 250$. I have also used a morel primo 12 which was a decent replacement but needs more xmax and a bit higher qts but it does hit 20 hz. I am considering buying a cadence s1 w8 but want some feedback from everyone here to see if they have any helpful experiences with similar taste in subwoofers.

Hey guys! im wondering if anybody here that builds custom subs can give me some info. I just got another subzero so i pulled the motor off and threw it on the bottom of my 12" holees Basket. But, the mounting holes dont line up perfectly so i kinda just had to make it work. i just wanted to know if this would properly center the basket on the motor? and i just wanted to see if this configuration would work? im really excited about this sub and i hope i can make it work!

I’ve recently installed a type r 15 inch dual 4ohm in a sealed 2.5 cubic ft box on a alpine mrp-m1000 in a bmw e63 6 series with logic 7 stereo. I tapped into the subwoofer wires and hooked up a hi to low converter and I have some problems. the first is that some songs just don’t hit hard at all and others hit really well. I know they hit from my last system same amp different subs. Then I have set the gain with a multimeter and where it is quite high I get a pop when I start the car if I bought an audio control lci2 would it allow me to lower the gain and get rid of the pop. Another problem is some songs the levels are way out like the volume is at 5% but the sub is at 65-75% only on this stereo. Please help

Hey guys, im new to the site..been in the car audio scene for years though. I have a custom built t3 t2000 12" sub. Has the hp500 black coil. Sundown soft parts with megaroll surround. I have been hearing good things about aeroport boxes..but can't find any specs online. Anyone have a input?

Nothing really to this post i'm just proud of myself and wanted to show off my work

Is this for real? Shok Industries Titan Series subwoofers for free? Does anybody know if these guys are going out of business or something? I sent them a memo but so far no response...

I need a box for my sundown zv4 15 rev1. Ive got it on a hifonics 1800.1 at 1 ohm. It slams right now in its current box but It sounds like the box is tuned to 35 or 36 hz. I want to build a 30hz or a low slamming box. Im new to building boxes but I work for a cabinet company so am pretty good with wood work and measurements and I have the tools so I thought I would give it a shot. What would be a good low hitting box tuned to 28-30hz for the zv4 15. I also want to know what program is good for tuning and sizing your boxes. I drive a mercury grand marquis so space isn't really an issue. Could someone design me a box for this thing that would slam 28-30hz? Any other ideas?

So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part.

just got 2x v1 re sex 12s thinking about doing a 4th order box or regular slotted box im going to power them on a aq2200.(i know there rated 600rms) thinking box tuning 32 ish hz since there fs is 25hz going in back of a 4 door pickup so max 30 deep 48 across 40 high any input on is great thanks theses are subs spec https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27312_RE-Audio-SEX12D4.html Subwoofer Series SEX (RE Audio) Subwoofer Size 12" RMS Power Handling 600 watts Voice Coil(s) Dual Impedance (Per Voice Coil) 4 ohms Voice Coil Diameter 3" Sensitivity 86.1 dB Xmax (millimeters) 18 mm Subwoofer Design Round / Circle Main Cone Color Black Woofer Composition Dual Composite 2-Piece Cone Woofer Surround Rubatek Foam Magnet Structure Triple Stacked Subwoofer Grille No Re-Cone Kit Available No Recommended Enclosure Specifications Recommended Enclosure Type Ported / Vented Sealed Minimum Sealed Box Volume 0.75 cubic feet Maximum Sealed Box Volume 1.0 cubic feet Minimum Ported Box Volume 1.5 cubic feet Maximum Ported Box Volume 2.0 cubic feet Top-Mount Depth 7" Cutout Diameter 11-1/4" Shallow Mount Installation No Electromechanical Parameters Free-Air Resonance (Fs) 25.1 Hz Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 72.9 liters Total Speaker Q Value (Qts) 0.44 Electrical Q Value (Qes) 0.49 Electrical Resistance of Voice Coil (Re) 2.8 ohms Mechanical Q Value (Qms) 4.5 Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) 51.22

Hey guys, so I got bored tonight and decided to get this sub I have laying around playing in a goofy temporary box until I actually build the QWTL for it. I've turned the cardboard box it came in into a subwoofer enclosure. I need to do some testing and tweaking to get it sounding a bit better but it's actually turning out to be better than I expected. Currently it's net volume is roughly .32 ft3. I'm experimenting with a port but need to add some more volume in order to get it to have any decent output with the port. The driver I'm using is the Dayton Audio Classic 10" 4ohm SVC (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs255-4-10-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-202#lblProductQ&A). I've taken some pictures along the way but I don't feel like uploading them tonight so hopefully I'll get around to it tomorrow. Hopefully tomorrow I can find a way to increase the volume of the box as well as add some more bracing. Disclaimer: Before anyone says it, I know that this isn't an optimal or even really usable enclosure. This is purely for fun and laughs. I do not recommend anyone trying this seriously as it will probably result in damage to equipment. I'm not putting a whole lot of power to this and am watching it pretty closely.

Hey folks, long time reader first time posting. I'll start with what I have already. Hu is a pioneer avh4800bt. Polk mma6501db mids and highs on a skar rp 75.4 running active xover. A skar audio rp 2000.1d. The box I plan on using is a dual sealed enclosure for 10s with 1 cube per chamber unloaded with a mounting depth of 6 and an 1/8 in. Vehicle is a Ford Ranger regular cab. A single run of zero gauge dual yellow tops and a 135 amp alternator. The alternator will be upgraded to 275 amp soon after sub installation. I was looking at Alpine Type Rs and Nvx Ncws, but was hoping to get some insight. It's my daily driver and my music taste varies greatly so I'm looking for something well rounded. So I'm looking for something very musical that gets decently loud yet plays clean. That being said both the Alpines and Nvxs run about a buck fifty a piece. I'm willing to spend a little more to get more, but really don't want to go much above 2-250 area per.

What is your all time favorite "SQL" sub ever made? Subs with outstanding SQ but also get LOUD and hit DEEP? What is your favorite, past or present, and why?

https://ibb.co/dxXUJF I got two dc level 4 15s im throwing in the back of my accent hatchback, as you can see all amps are wired up and ready to go, just gotta build box, but I cant figure out what would be best.. its going to be a big and tall slot port box, if port is to the rear it will only have like 4 or 5 inches clearance from hatch, i noticed walled off setups are always port and subs forward and sound great but also hear to always point it backwards... with my setup, what do you think would be best? after i build it, its gonna be hard to turn around and experiment so kinda have to do it on first try.