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I'm getting rid of my SPL setup I have currently ( one 12" DC lvl4 sub, ported box)and I'm throwing in a "behind the seat box" sealed enclosure... But here's my question as to what would sound better?? Either two 10" skar VD-10's or three? The box will be made the same dimensions for each set up so having two 10's I'm closer to what the subs call for in a sealed enclosure. Total inside box volume will be 1.5cubes the vd-10's call for .65 cubes per sub totaling 1.3cubes if I do two and the enclosure would technically be two small for 3 sealed vd-10's but they would fit. I can power both set ups efficiently just curious as to what would sound better, either 3 subs requiring 1500rms in a sealed box that's too small or two tens in a correct sized enclosure requiring 1000rms?

2 subwoofer 2amps for each subwoofer, stock battery stock alternator. Amp: Alpine Mrv500 Subwoofer #1 Renegade 12inch Subwoofer #2 Pioneer champion series Ts-W309D4, wired dual 4ohm Can each amp handle these subwoofers? I'm only asking because my Apline Mrv-500 get to hot to touch, so I am concerned. Both amps running off the stock battery with a distribution block for the power cable. Ps don't ask why I have 2 different subs, the other pioneer blew...

Hey y’all, Looking for some advice on these 3 woofers. Which do you think will sound the best and worth what they are priced. I need a 10inch sub that is taking at least 1000watts rms. These are the 3 options I have come up with: Dc level 3, sundown x10, and an alpine x series 10. Also I heard the new Memphis mojo 10s are pretty good. Which do you guys think sound the best and are worth my money haha.

I am trying to build a box for 4 Sundown Sa6.5s on winisd but i cant seem to get a configuration that doesn't have a ridiculous rear airport velocity. I am building this box to go under the rear seat of my '15 Sierra Double Cab. The shape of the floor makes it hard to do a rectangular port so i am trying to use an aero port. Please help me come up with a config that will work for my application

I am very new to most things car audio, and being new I am not really looking to build a box to the exact specifications of my subwoofers manual. I would like to find something as close as I can get however. and I'm looking for suggestions. The sub is wired to 2 ohms My setup is Subwoofer: http://alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d4 Amp: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601 Box: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12-single-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-charcoal/6504011.p?id=1218747923938&skuId=6504011 I am completely oblivious to whether my current box is even close to what my sub should have. It was just what was available and cheap with my discount. I'm looking for something close to the manufacturer's recommended specs (if they are whats best). The specifications can be found on the right side of page three of the manual in this link. I'm looking for the Vented box. https://www.manualowl.com/m/Alpine/SWS-12D4/Manual/276124 Thanks in advance for any help guys its very much appreciated!

Hi guys, so I've had this sub-woofer in my SUV for over a year now. The other day it started to make a crackling/static noise in the whole audio system. All the door and dash speakers are heavily effected, its only when the bass hits. When i go into the stereo settings and turn off the subwoofer everything works fine. I've completely rewired the system, everything has a clean connection. Any ideas? Or suggestions? Thank you in advance!

I've seen the Blaupunkt GBW120 12" subwoofer on WalMart.com for a while now and the $19.99 price tag just seemed crazy to me. Buy 2 and shipping is even free! This sub has decent specs and 400 watt RMS power handling and 800 watts peak. I decided it would be really cool to mount it inside the acrylic Gately Audio subwoofer box and do some demos, then see how much power it would handle before it blows up. How much do you think it will take? Fun video, please share if you like it https://youtu.be/-LFJq6Gw7C4

Right now I have a skar audio evl 12 and it's just not doing it for me. I've narrowed it down between the Fi BTL-3 and the Fi Q Ferrite. Both 12". I listen to edm more than anything. And this would be a daily driver. Any suggestions?

Ok so I'm new here and just want to apologize before hand if I pose a question in the forum. I have an old school Orion HCCA 12 that I would like to rebuild/have rebuilt, but can't seem to find any information on a recone kit. I only know that the sub came out in like 1998-99. Is there any company that makes a kit or rebuilds them? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanx

Hey there, I have two 15" Earthquake DBXI subwoofers that are currently in a sealed enclosure and I'm looking to go ported. My car is a 2003 Monte carlo - My amp is an Alpine 1k - The trunk space available is 36" wide - 31" Deep - 16" Tall The subwoofers are 6 3/8" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the magnet if that helps I listen to a lot of rap (Gucci Mane, Future, etc) and I'm a huge fan of low bass (Decaf <3) but I'd still like to be able to handle mid range bass also Im not opposed to any style of box I Just want it to sound better Please let me know if you need any more info! Will appreciate any help someone can give!

im planning on building a ported box for 2 rf p3 12s tuned at 32hz. Rockford recommends 1.79 cubic feet per sub, unlike most manufacturers who give a range of volume for an enclosure. i know they can be put in a larger enclosure i just dont know how much larger. does anyone have an idea of how many cubic feet of air space would work best for a box tuned at 32hz?

Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port

I have a 2004 cavalier and recently i had a single hds12 on a shark audio2500d that i got for free from my friend lol, not the best amp but it did the job pretty good and it was free best part. i just sold the sub and box to this guy for 200 bucks and im thinking about making a real build this time now i cant decide if i should go for 1 HDC15, 2 HDS312", or 3 HDS310", i think all three of those configurations will fit in my trunk i will run them off a soundqubed 2200 more than likely. just trying to see what would get louder for a daily system on music.

I have 1 orion h2 12.2 and due to missunderstanding 1 orion h2 12.4 it was supposed to be a h2 12.2 and i cant find a matching one for either any way to wire them to same amp if i wired just one voice coil on the 2 ohm and wired the dual 4 ohm to 2 ohm would it work

I was running subs today at about 1/2 volume of max . My system has been tuned with the dd1. No eq or bass boost everything set flat and 0. Today with volume lower then usual... I heard a noise that was a loud buzz sound and then it sounded like a slinky hitting a wall. I immediately pulled over and the sub was still playing just not as loud. I pushed on the front and I can feel the coil rubbing. The sub was not hot or overheating. I had an old JL audio blow before but it usually would be super hot and have dust/smoke coming out the holes. This sub is a newer w3v3 that I have had for less then a year and purchased as a pair. The other is completely fine. When I put the multimeter on it, it read open but when I move it, it jumps around in Ohms alot. Could someone enlighten me or what may of happen? Is it blown or did the suspension go on it?? I plan to get it repaired by JL because they charged a flat rate repair of $150 on w3v3s. Both tinsel leads look perfectly fine and the spyder is untouched. From within the cone I can feel the whole shape of the coil pressing forward.

i just picked up some aa havoc 12s that i'm going to throw in my 2001 monte carlo. its going to be my first box build but i need some help with the design. i feel like the re box design site isn't too accurate and do not know how to use others so all help/designs will help. here's what i had measured from my trunk to work with, 34 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 21 inches deep, but was kinda thinking i should double baffle the front and back? any help would be great, thanks!

at first when i 2x my power to subs i thought it was just panels in truck flexing. yesterday i tried finding where noise was coming from everything look good. so i turned it up and saw the rear sub close to the port was flex a lot harder then the front one. the noise i heard was the mechanical limit of the sub lol. ooops. how do i stop that a baffle or some shit like that. here picks of my box

So, I have these 2 Alpine SWS-15D2 woofers that I have in a living room in separate 3.0 cu ft boxes (a bit too large) and I'm looking for a better way too power them. Each has a 500W RMS rating and right now I am using a 1000W computer power supply unit connected to an Audiobahn AMA24002 (600W RMS x 2 channels). Are there any receivers out there that can provide the wattage necessary to power the speakers without having to wire together a bunch of components in a tacky, ghetto fashion? Thanks

so a friend of mine is moving and he had a couple extra subs that were just going to go in the trash as they were slowly dying. the visonic needed reconing and the diamond sub had a blown coil so here is how the video went

tuned to 33hz. its going into my bedroom for now

your first one was deleted was that not hint enough?

Which would sound louder 2 800 rms 15"s or 1 2000 rms 15"?

I am doing away with my 4x12 setup and going to a 2x18 setup with Fi sp4's. I plan on running one Crescendo BC 5500 on each subwoofer wired down to a single ohm on each amp.(not strapped.) I wanted to build a custom dual chambered ported box for this setup and so far I have a few ideas of my own but am very unsure if it will give me the most spl and output!!! I can go 48Wx32Hx28L maybe even 33H 39.5x31 face 48x28 top 48x28 bottom 27x31x27x31 port L 26x31x26x31 right 48x31 back 22.5x31x22.5x31 tuned to around 30hz and 32ish after sub displacement.. 8Cubes per sub. too big or? I open for Ideas, I have plenty of power for the amplifiers MM Elite 370 and three HC1800, 60 feet of 1/0 RF OFC

Hey I'm 17 years old and I have been trying to design a driver. I have been taking parts from other subs and combining them to make something I hope will be better! On my motor I have a bottom plate, a top plate, and two magnets stacked on top of one another. My question is the pole piece in the center. Does this have to come to the top of the top plate or can it only come half way up? Do I even need one? I can post pics if needed but I don't really understand the purpose of the pole in the motor and would like to know more but I cant seem to find anything on google. Thanks for your help! I look forward to hearing your responses!

Hello, I just want to introduce you build for my friend. It consists of: 2x Sundown X15 2x Crescendo BC3500D 1x Crescendo Concerto C1100.4 1x ARC audio 4ch (dont know the exact model) 4x Crescendo PWX 10 4x Crescendo FT1 Tweeters 1x Powercell 4000 battery in front (we do the 3 big upgrades of course ) 2x CZ audio 115Ah batteries in back 2x Exide AGM 50Ah in the back - running on stock 120Ah alternator - Pionner 2DIN radio The sundown´s are in 6th Bandpass enclosure (4th was planned and builded but it wasnt what we want so we upgrade it to 6th ) tuned from 18hz running on two bridget Crescendo BC 3500D (metered over 5kW and 0,85ohm+ impedance in bridge - 0,425ohm on each amp) Some scores (metered on the front window) 147db @ 20hz driver window opened 150,4db @ 30hz sealed 154db @ 30hz driver window opened Here are more pics from build: https://www.facebook.com/miqra/media_set?set=a.10206386572810730.1073741861.1460274342&type=3 And here some youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cwWGOAvA8g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4JODrZ6Y2I