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I am trying to build a box for 4 Sundown Sa6.5s on winisd but i cant seem to get a configuration that doesn't have a ridiculous rear airport velocity. I am building this box to go under the rear seat of my '15 Sierra Double Cab. The shape of the floor makes it hard to do a rectangular port so i am trying to use an aero port. Please help me come up with a config that will work for my application

I am very new to most things car audio, and being new I am not really looking to build a box to the exact specifications of my subwoofers manual. I would like to find something as close as I can get however. and I'm looking for suggestions. The sub is wired to 2 ohms My setup is Subwoofer: http://alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d4 Amp: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601 Box: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12-single-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-charcoal/6504011.p?id=1218747923938&skuId=6504011 I am completely oblivious to whether my current box is even close to what my sub should have. It was just what was available and cheap with my discount. I'm looking for something close to the manufacturer's recommended specs (if they are whats best). The specifications can be found on the right side of page three of the manual in this link. I'm looking for the Vented box. https://www.manualowl.com/m/Alpine/SWS-12D4/Manual/276124 Thanks in advance for any help guys its very much appreciated!

Hi guys, so I've had this sub-woofer in my SUV for over a year now. The other day it started to make a crackling/static noise in the whole audio system. All the door and dash speakers are heavily effected, its only when the bass hits. When i go into the stereo settings and turn off the subwoofer everything works fine. I've completely rewired the system, everything has a clean connection. Any ideas? Or suggestions? Thank you in advance!

I've seen the Blaupunkt GBW120 12" subwoofer on WalMart.com for a while now and the $19.99 price tag just seemed crazy to me. Buy 2 and shipping is even free! This sub has decent specs and 400 watt RMS power handling and 800 watts peak. I decided it would be really cool to mount it inside the acrylic Gately Audio subwoofer box and do some demos, then see how much power it would handle before it blows up. How much do you think it will take? Fun video, please share if you like it https://youtu.be/-LFJq6Gw7C4

Right now I have a skar audio evl 12 and it's just not doing it for me. I've narrowed it down between the Fi BTL-3 and the Fi Q Ferrite. Both 12". I listen to edm more than anything. And this would be a daily driver. Any suggestions?

Ok so I'm new here and just want to apologize before hand if I pose a question in the forum. I have an old school Orion HCCA 12 that I would like to rebuild/have rebuilt, but can't seem to find any information on a recone kit. I only know that the sub came out in like 1998-99. Is there any company that makes a kit or rebuilds them? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanx

I'm currently trying to run an 18" DJ subwoofer in my car but it sits at 8ohms and is a single voice coil sub. Is there any way to lower the impedance to 4ohms by jumping a wire from the negative to positive terminal? Not sure if this will hurt my amp and/or sub. Thanks in advance!

Need enclosure specs and power ratings for old school Lanzar pro plus 10” single voice coil, 8 ohm

Just got a new enclosure design for 2 12 AB subs, the port is 3.5 inches wide. I showed a friend the design and he is said the port should be wider. What is the concept behind port size? Bigger louder? Smaller cleaner sound? Is it a calculation? Or is it just based on personal preference?

Hey there, I have two 15" Earthquake DBXI subwoofers that are currently in a sealed enclosure and I'm looking to go ported. My car is a 2003 Monte carlo - My amp is an Alpine 1k - The trunk space available is 36" wide - 31" Deep - 16" Tall The subwoofers are 6 3/8" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the magnet if that helps I listen to a lot of rap (Gucci Mane, Future, etc) and I'm a huge fan of low bass (Decaf <3) but I'd still like to be able to handle mid range bass also Im not opposed to any style of box I Just want it to sound better Please let me know if you need any more info! Will appreciate any help someone can give!

im planning on building a ported box for 2 rf p3 12s tuned at 32hz. Rockford recommends 1.79 cubic feet per sub, unlike most manufacturers who give a range of volume for an enclosure. i know they can be put in a larger enclosure i just dont know how much larger. does anyone have an idea of how many cubic feet of air space would work best for a box tuned at 32hz?

Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port

Hi everyone, For some reason my custom made sub box for my 1x sundown zv3 12" dual 2ohm from my local car audio installer sounded not as ok as I think it would. I suppose you can say it hits some bass notes (frequency) pretty well but some just unbearable or missing or can't be heard or weak. For example: when i play lil wayne 6ft 7ft its good but when I play something like yg - who do you love. the intro onwards is just weak (shouldn't say weak but seems semi-missing or should i say not hitting maybe) Anyhow my low bass setup: skar 1500.1 setting 90hz LPF , phase 0, bass boost 0, subsonic about 32hz can't really tell as its extremely hard to tell where its at, gain set with multi meter at about 39 (1500 square root) Sub - single SD 12 zv3 dual 2ohm Most importantly the box: 17W x 14H x 22D MDF 0.75 - port 2" with port length18" L1 + 8.5"L2 should be at 32hz ( I did used the RE calculator but human error could happen) I don't know why this is happening but I did try to put the subs in my 1.75cu box it sounded boomier but bass were not that clean) but its still better than missing or unable to hear. Note : car BMW e60 520i 2003 with ski hole cut should i just have another box build? By the way i'm looking for best in both world SPL & SQ. your valuable inputs is very much appreciated SImon

I have 2 15'' vibe audio slicks and i think i am overpowering them somehow. On the drive home from school today i was playing bme click by lil jon and i could hear from the front of my car a vibrating/pinging noise from my subs on the really low notes. I put the subs in a sealed box volume recommended by vibe audio themselves and I am only using a polk audio pa880 amplifier that puts out around 700 watts peak and 350 watts rms to each subwoofer. Each subwoofer is rated at 1500 watts peak and 500 watts rms. There is no way in my mind that i can be overpowering these subs unless vibe audio completely lies about their subwoofer wattage ratings. Help or suggestions?

I have a 2004 cavalier and recently i had a single hds12 on a shark audio2500d that i got for free from my friend lol, not the best amp but it did the job pretty good and it was free best part. i just sold the sub and box to this guy for 200 bucks and im thinking about making a real build this time now i cant decide if i should go for 1 HDC15, 2 HDS312", or 3 HDS310", i think all three of those configurations will fit in my trunk i will run them off a soundqubed 2200 more than likely. just trying to see what would get louder for a daily system on music.

I have 1 orion h2 12.2 and due to missunderstanding 1 orion h2 12.4 it was supposed to be a h2 12.2 and i cant find a matching one for either any way to wire them to same amp if i wired just one voice coil on the 2 ohm and wired the dual 4 ohm to 2 ohm would it work

I was running subs today at about 1/2 volume of max . My system has been tuned with the dd1. No eq or bass boost everything set flat and 0. Today with volume lower then usual... I heard a noise that was a loud buzz sound and then it sounded like a slinky hitting a wall. I immediately pulled over and the sub was still playing just not as loud. I pushed on the front and I can feel the coil rubbing. The sub was not hot or overheating. I had an old JL audio blow before but it usually would be super hot and have dust/smoke coming out the holes. This sub is a newer w3v3 that I have had for less then a year and purchased as a pair. The other is completely fine. When I put the multimeter on it, it read open but when I move it, it jumps around in Ohms alot. Could someone enlighten me or what may of happen? Is it blown or did the suspension go on it?? I plan to get it repaired by JL because they charged a flat rate repair of $150 on w3v3s. Both tinsel leads look perfectly fine and the spyder is untouched. From within the cone I can feel the whole shape of the coil pressing forward.

i just picked up some aa havoc 12s that i'm going to throw in my 2001 monte carlo. its going to be my first box build but i need some help with the design. i feel like the re box design site isn't too accurate and do not know how to use others so all help/designs will help. here's what i had measured from my trunk to work with, 34 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 21 inches deep, but was kinda thinking i should double baffle the front and back? any help would be great, thanks!

at first when i 2x my power to subs i thought it was just panels in truck flexing. yesterday i tried finding where noise was coming from everything look good. so i turned it up and saw the rear sub close to the port was flex a lot harder then the front one. the noise i heard was the mechanical limit of the sub lol. ooops. how do i stop that a baffle or some shit like that. here picks of my box

So, I have these 2 Alpine SWS-15D2 woofers that I have in a living room in separate 3.0 cu ft boxes (a bit too large) and I'm looking for a better way too power them. Each has a 500W RMS rating and right now I am using a 1000W computer power supply unit connected to an Audiobahn AMA24002 (600W RMS x 2 channels). Are there any receivers out there that can provide the wattage necessary to power the speakers without having to wire together a bunch of components in a tacky, ghetto fashion? Thanks

ok so my set up is i have 4 gauge wire running to my trunk area and have a second battery running 2 ken wood 1800w monoblock class d amps. 4 kicker 12cvrs and 4 gauge grounding the amps 80amp inline fuses(3. one from front battery, one to each amp from second battery). everything has been running fantastic until today my inline fuse to one of the amps blew so i replaced it, then the fuse in the amp blew, i replaced it lol, then the inline popped again. idk what the problem is with it but ive checked the power wires and ground and there is nothing wrong with them everything seems to be fine. so if anyone has had this problem or has a general idea how to fix this please let me know. i would greatly appreciate it

so a friend of mine is moving and he had a couple extra subs that were just going to go in the trash as they were slowly dying. the visonic needed reconing and the diamond sub had a blown coil so here is how the video went

i have an 01 tahoe with 4 rockford p3 12s. they sound good but i really want something that can hit the lows REALLY well. i have to rockford p1000x1bd amps. the birth sheet says they put out almost 1400 rms each. So basically im looking for the best sub around that power rating that truly excels on the lower end. enclosure size doesn't matter. sub size and price don't matter. i was thinking about 15s because i listen to a lot of rock and metal in edition to rap and stuff and i have heard that 18s have a hard time keeping up with the fast bass drum of metal music. maybe that's a load of crap i don't know. so feel free to school me on that as well. any suggestions are welcome.

tuned to 33hz. its going into my bedroom for now

your first one was deleted was that not hint enough?