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I need a box for my sundown zv4 15 rev1. Ive got it on a hifonics 1800.1 at 1 ohm. It slams right now in its current box but It sounds like the box is tuned to 35 or 36 hz. I want to build a 30hz or a low slamming box. Im new to building boxes but I work for a cabinet company so am pretty good with wood work and measurements and I have the tools so I thought I would give it a shot. What would be a good low hitting box tuned to 28-30hz for the zv4 15. I also want to know what program is good for tuning and sizing your boxes. I drive a mercury grand marquis so space isn't really an issue. Could someone design me a box for this thing that would slam 28-30hz? Any other ideas?

So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part.

just got 2x v1 re sex 12s thinking about doing a 4th order box or regular slotted box im going to power them on a aq2200.(i know there rated 600rms) thinking box tuning 32 ish hz since there fs is 25hz going in back of a 4 door pickup so max 30 deep 48 across 40 high any input on is great thanks theses are subs spec https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27312_RE-Audio-SEX12D4.html Subwoofer Series SEX (RE Audio) Subwoofer Size 12" RMS Power Handling 600 watts Voice Coil(s) Dual Impedance (Per Voice Coil) 4 ohms Voice Coil Diameter 3" Sensitivity 86.1 dB Xmax (millimeters) 18 mm Subwoofer Design Round / Circle Main Cone Color Black Woofer Composition Dual Composite 2-Piece Cone Woofer Surround Rubatek Foam Magnet Structure Triple Stacked Subwoofer Grille No Re-Cone Kit Available No Recommended Enclosure Specifications Recommended Enclosure Type Ported / Vented Sealed Minimum Sealed Box Volume 0.75 cubic feet Maximum Sealed Box Volume 1.0 cubic feet Minimum Ported Box Volume 1.5 cubic feet Maximum Ported Box Volume 2.0 cubic feet Top-Mount Depth 7" Cutout Diameter 11-1/4" Shallow Mount Installation No Electromechanical Parameters Free-Air Resonance (Fs) 25.1 Hz Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 72.9 liters Total Speaker Q Value (Qts) 0.44 Electrical Q Value (Qes) 0.49 Electrical Resistance of Voice Coil (Re) 2.8 ohms Mechanical Q Value (Qms) 4.5 Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) 51.22

Hey guys, so I got bored tonight and decided to get this sub I have laying around playing in a goofy temporary box until I actually build the QWTL for it. I've turned the cardboard box it came in into a subwoofer enclosure. I need to do some testing and tweaking to get it sounding a bit better but it's actually turning out to be better than I expected. Currently it's net volume is roughly .32 ft3. I'm experimenting with a port but need to add some more volume in order to get it to have any decent output with the port. The driver I'm using is the Dayton Audio Classic 10" 4ohm SVC (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs255-4-10-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-202#lblProductQ&A). I've taken some pictures along the way but I don't feel like uploading them tonight so hopefully I'll get around to it tomorrow. Hopefully tomorrow I can find a way to increase the volume of the box as well as add some more bracing. Disclaimer: Before anyone says it, I know that this isn't an optimal or even really usable enclosure. This is purely for fun and laughs. I do not recommend anyone trying this seriously as it will probably result in damage to equipment. I'm not putting a whole lot of power to this and am watching it pretty closely.

Hey folks, long time reader first time posting. I'll start with what I have already. Hu is a pioneer avh4800bt. Polk mma6501db mids and highs on a skar rp 75.4 running active xover. A skar audio rp 2000.1d. The box I plan on using is a dual sealed enclosure for 10s with 1 cube per chamber unloaded with a mounting depth of 6 and an 1/8 in. Vehicle is a Ford Ranger regular cab. A single run of zero gauge dual yellow tops and a 135 amp alternator. The alternator will be upgraded to 275 amp soon after sub installation. I was looking at Alpine Type Rs and Nvx Ncws, but was hoping to get some insight. It's my daily driver and my music taste varies greatly so I'm looking for something well rounded. So I'm looking for something very musical that gets decently loud yet plays clean. That being said both the Alpines and Nvxs run about a buck fifty a piece. I'm willing to spend a little more to get more, but really don't want to go much above 2-250 area per.

What is your all time favorite "SQL" sub ever made? Subs with outstanding SQ but also get LOUD and hit DEEP? What is your favorite, past or present, and why?

https://ibb.co/dxXUJF I got two dc level 4 15s im throwing in the back of my accent hatchback, as you can see all amps are wired up and ready to go, just gotta build box, but I cant figure out what would be best.. its going to be a big and tall slot port box, if port is to the rear it will only have like 4 or 5 inches clearance from hatch, i noticed walled off setups are always port and subs forward and sound great but also hear to always point it backwards... with my setup, what do you think would be best? after i build it, its gonna be hard to turn around and experiment so kinda have to do it on first try.

Hey guys, I've been looking at the Sundown X8 V2 for a few days now. I don't really need more subwoofers but...who can resist that beasty little monster? Every since I got my American Bass VFL 8" subs and saw people's reactions to them, I've fell in love with using predominantly 8 inch subs. I like trying them out and seeing how they all sound. I was actually about to pull the trigger on a set of PSI 8 inch subs until this Sundown sub caught my eye. This isn't a vs. thread, I'm just looking for some reviews from anyone who has ran, or does run the Sundown X8 V2 subs. I'd be running these with a VFL 2680.1D amp, a secondary XS D1200 battery and stinger isolator. They'd be in a ported box at 32hz. Can anyone tell me if these subs sound as mean as they look? What can I expect? Would the 2680.1D be enough power for them, or will they want more? I see they're rated for 750rms each and the VFL 2680.1D is supposed to provide 1300 RMS. I think that's a pretty close match, right? Any information is greatly appreciated. I'm not looking for anyone to bash all the other 8 inch subs, I just want to know specifically about the Sundown. Feel free to PM if you prefer. Thanks!

So I've had this basket that a buddy gave me in a trade and it sat for a while since lack of resources like where to get a cone til recently, and just plain being lazy. But, lately I've come across a few good sources for parts and am wanting to do something crazy with it. My goal is to build a triple magnet (ceramic) 4" dvc version of the Kicker L7, hopefully rating at 2-4k watts minimum. So I'm gonna start a build log and slowly add to it. Btw, this will be my first subwoofer rebuild/build so this should get interesting. Pics from build log will be shared here through my flickr page: https://www.flickr.com/gp/jkoncepz/19810G

I am planning on building a sub box for a RX8, but since the trunk is small, my options are limited. I might use either a single Rockford Fosgate P3 - 10" or 12". But I've heard about 'port noise' and was wondering if my design would make the noise I am using 5/8 MDF The dimensions are in the pic:

https://youtu.be/cjZQtH__Y0M https://youtu.be/loLaB2iklcc <div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cjZQtH__Y0M?ecver=2" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> <div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/loLaB2iklcc?ecver=2" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> is the video showing?

I am doing away with my 4x12 setup and going to a 2x18 setup with Fi sp4's. I plan on running one Crescendo BC 5500 on each subwoofer wired down to a single ohm on each amp.(not strapped.) I wanted to build a custom dual chambered ported box for this setup and so far I have a few ideas of my own but am very unsure if it will give me the most spl and output!!! I can go 48Wx32Hx28L maybe even 33H 39.5x31 face 48x28 top 48x28 bottom 27x31x27x31 port L 26x31x26x31 right 48x31 back 22.5x31x22.5x31 tuned to around 30hz and 32ish after sub displacement.. 8Cubes per sub. too big or? I open for Ideas, I have plenty of power for the amplifiers MM Elite 370 and three HC1800, 60 feet of 1/0 RF OFC

I have a wedge style box for my two 10" RF p2d4 subs , each compartment is sealed off in the box and each one is 1.4 cubic feet (2.80 cubic feet total) The optimum frequentcy for it is 40hz and the manufacturer says it need a 4x14 port to achieve that and I was wondering if I could use 2smaller ports to achieve the same thing and have them style pound good and sound great. The box dimensions of you guys need them are 55 1/4 wide total (both compartments , but its sealed on the inside in the middle) 12 1/2" front height, 7" rear height and has a 19" depth. This box was made for my 04 silverado but for L5's or L7's so I modified the front to hold my round subs , I found it online and since the airspace was exact for my subs I bought it. If anyone at all could please help me I'd appreciate it.Thanks

Single 15 in a Dodge Mega Cab. Took some creative box design but it slams!! About 4 cubes and tuned to 34 hertz. Seats have to be down to allow for excursion. Seat just touches surround when it's up.

Hi, I have a car in which I did a car audio install but I did not want to replace the factory nav/radio so I bought a Fiio e17k Alpen 2, a portable DAC/AMP. I'm using my phone as source connected via usb so it uses the fiio's DAC instead of the phones. The Fiio has a line in/out connection in which I used a 3.5mm splitter to connect an aux cable to the factory radio and another rca cable to connect to the amplifier. My sub has only rca inputs (Hifonics BE2500.1D) so I'm assuming it only takes low level signal and no speaker level signal. Is there any way to tell whether the line out on the fiio e17k is sending low level or high level signal? I tested it with the hifonics amp gains at 1,500 watts and it sounds very nice and clean but I have no way of knowing if the amp internals are being damaged. Any help would be appreciated.

Alright, I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 I recently bought off craigslist that im re doing just for a "fun" vehicle. Im recently doing a stereo build on this thing that pretty basic, but my question is, what kind of enclosure should I build that will be loud, or heard from an outside standpoint? Equipment: - Aftermarket Head Unit - 132 amp Alternator - Big 3 upgrade - 8 JL audio 4" 2 way speakers - Dual 4 Channel amp for the 2 ways (one I found in my attic) - HiFonics Brutus BX1205D amp - 2-12" Alpine Type R (again found in my attic) In a prefab enclosure - Extra Battery in the back, all 4ga Power Wire Everything is pretty much "thrown together" and was found the cheapest way possible. I am pretty good with subwoofer enclosures when it comes to making them, so I dont think there will something that will be too difficult. My goal isn't to get these the loudest I can, but more to make them sound good and be HEARD outside. Does anyone have any experience when it comes to this? Like something from a ranger or any other UTV? Any help is appreciated!! Thanks!

Looking for anyone that can provide dimensions and a cut sheet list for a single sundown audio zv4 15. Wanting around a 7 cubic foot box, The box will be in a 1995 Yukon so I have a good bit of space to work with as far as measurements go, don't have exact measurements off the top of my head. Any help would be nice.

Ok so i have seen many different answers on this and I am wondering on what is the correct answer. so my head unit is a pioneer FHX-520ui now on the head unit there is a bass Level, not bass boost but bass level it goes from -24 to + 6 its default setting is 0 when i am DD-1 tuning my set up should i set this at 0 or+ 6 or somewhere in between, i'm assuming this is Gain from the rca outputs, and if it does not matter what are the beniffits of tuning at 0 or +6 i just want to tune it for the best possible output, what i am currently running is in my signature as well, I also plan on upgrading to an AVH deck with 4v pream outputs because i feel like i can get better bass response out of these subs.

9512 rear deck 03 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 53 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 52 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 55 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 56 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 54 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 57 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 58 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 59 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 62 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 63 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 60 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 66 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 67 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 68 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 69 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 71 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 70 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 64 by rogueauto, on Flickr 9512 rear deck 65 by rogueauto, on Flickr

Decided to make a seperate thread for this build as it does not really have anything to do with my current big build here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159860-the-roadmonster-wagon-build-6th-order-bandpass-success/ here are the posts from that thread: 6th Order Bandpass Enclosure for Alpine Type R 12 So, for my first side project! I recently aquired an Alpine Type R 12 very cheap. Came in an OBCON vented box. Decided to have some fun with it. I've always wanted to try a 6th order, and this is the perfect time since I'm waiting for the good stuff. At first I was planning on building an ABC box but decided to give a 6th order a chance (can always convert it to an abc later.) My goal is to get good response from 20hz to 60hz+. According to winisd, this box design should meet those requirements. Here is the response graph compared to a standard 40hz ported box: This is the fun part. The cone excursion graph is the fun part. 1000watts and keeping control down to 22hz! Quick sketchup. Model not finished, but it gives you an idea of the layout. Wood is cut and ready, I'll be working on assembling it tonight. 2 4" precision ports per side, externally mounted. Rear chamber ports will be around 33" long and front chamber will be around 15"

Here is a short video from The Netherlands where bassheads compete in a fantastic competition format called; "Propper-Droppers". Since this game uses the real lows (20hz (!!), 25hz, 33hz & 40hz) it's a fun thing to watch because lots of hairtricks. We all like wobbling, whale stimulating BASS!

I'm planning on building a sealed box for my SSA G-CON 15. Before I plan the box I need to figure out which way a want to face the woofer and where I want to put the box in my trunk. My Jeep is an SUV obviously and therefore doesn't have a separated trunk. From what I gather, my best option is to have the woofer toward the liftgate and very close to the liftgate. It would be most convenient for me to place it flush with the back seats so I have space. It would also be cool to put my driver side back seat down and have the woofer fire toward me, but in another thread I was told that wouldn't sound good unless I had the box sealed off from the space behind it. Also I want to avoid rattling (I plan on getting Dynamat at a later date). Any help will be appreciated, My emphasis is on SQ

Hi I am new here and have a question about bass tubes. I wont to put my subs through a ski hole since my seats wont go down but the problem is that the box wont fit. So would a empty bass tube with a subwoofer like for example a nvx vcw 12 in sub be good to stick through the ski hole and get more output? My car is a 1995 BMW 525i. Would a better option be if i put 2 aero ports through the rear deck and put the sub facing through the ski hole?

Alright, so I see a lot of posts around here that say things such as “can someone help me design a box?” or “I don’t know how to use Torres.” So I am writing this guide to act as a one stop resource to learn how to design a simple box. This guide will teach you both slot ported designs. I am hoping it will go over all the basic information you need similar to the for dummies series of books. **Preperation** To start off you will need some software. Torres box designer and Google Sketchup are the programs we’ll be using in this tutorial. I have also used Inventor in the past but it is much more difficult to learn and a very expensive program. The free version of Sketchup has all the features we need. There is a write up on how to get Torres Box Calculator in the enclosures section of this forum so I will go right to downloading sketchup. Start by googleing “Google Sketchup and it should pull up this page: Go ahead and click on “Downloads” and it will bring this up: Click on the big blue button in the top right corner that says “Download Sketchup.” From there it should guide you through the download and installation process. Now that we have both Torres and Sketchup installed we can get to the actual box designing. **Calculating** For this tutorial we will be using a Sundown SA8v2 but I think you will get the idea and can use the principles to design boxes for different subs. Pull up your subwoofer band’s website and navigate to the enclosure recommendations for your specific subwoofer. If you are using multiple of the subwoofers then you can just multiply the recommended ported volume by the number of woofers. Example: 1 SA8v2 is recommended at 0.5-0.75 ft^3 Therefore 2 SA8v2s need 1.0-1.5 ft^3 And 3 SA8v2s need 1.5-2.25 ft^3 Remember this number as it will be used soon. Next, go into Torres and enter in the outside dimensions of the box you want to build, these can be obtained by measuring your trunk and making them up. For this example our box will be 9 inches tall, 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Entering those numbers spits out our net volume; highlighted in red. It is above the enclosure recommendations but that is fine for now as we have not yet accounted for the port. After that, enter the displacement of the woofer into the box labeled “woofer displacement,” this number is also available on the website of the subwoofer manufacturer. The easiest and most often built box is a box with 3 common port walls. Start from here and you can get more and more complex designs as you learn. So enter 3 in the box for “# of common port walls.” Now it’s time to start designing the port! For the height of the port take your overall box height (9) and subtract 1.5 (.75 for the thickness of each the top and bottom, .75+.75=1.5) which gives us 7.5. As for the width, find a number that gives a good ratio of height to width so that you don’t a super skinny tall port or something like that. I’m not sure if there is a more accurate way to find this, if there is lemme know. Once those numbers are in, play with the length until you find one that gives you the tuning you like. We’ll use 33 Hz as an example, because that’s what everyone wants to tune to. You know what they say about 33 Hz… Hold on! There is a trick; you must ensure that your Port area is within the port area range listed in the box directly above it. In this case 9.38 is within the range of 9-12 so we are good to go. Next, double check that your Net volume is within the Manufacturer’s recommended enclosure specifications that we looked up earlier. Our net volume came out to 0.77 ft^3 and we were aiming for 0.5-0.75 ft^3, so we are just barely above but it will come down a little later when we account for our bracing. If everything checks out in Torres then you are ready to move on to the design phase. **3D Design** Open up your newly installed Sketchup. Grab the rectangle tool, and then click first in the origin (where the red, green, and blue lines meet). Type in the dimensions of the base of your box with a comma in between (“24, 12” in this case). Then press enter to draw the rectangle. Now we are gonna use the Push/Pull tool to grab the rectangle and pull it up ¾ of n inch for the bottom piece of mdf. So click on the tool, then click on your rectangle, then start to pull upwards. Once you see it start to raise then type “.75” and push enter. Next we are going to draw on the walls. Click the offset tool and click on the top face of your box. Once you see it is offsetting on the inside of the box rather than the outside you can type “.75” and puch enter. You should now have this: You can use this outline to start drawing the walls of the box and port. Start by deleting the front interior wall line highlighted in blue. Then extend the right wall to the edge of your box. You should now have this: Now we can start designing the port. Start with a line that is half the port width away from the interior right wall. In this case it is 5/8s of an inch because the full port width is 3/4s of an inch, shown in blue. Next we will draw the port centerline. Start from the point you found and draw a line towards the back of the box. End half your port distance from the back wall. Take your port length that you entered into Torres and subtract the length of this line you just drew. So 27-10.625=16.375 This is the length of our extension. The two lines highlighted in blue are now the centerline of your port. You can add lines 5/8 of an inch inside of this now to create the other side of your port. This is what you should have. Now add the other edge of the port. Now you can go back and delete the centerline of the port. Now you see the design starting to come together. Add the front wall back on and finish off the edges so that you can see where the pieces of mdf come together.