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Hello, I was sent here by a good buddy of mine that said some down to earth people would be willing to help me with my box design if they have time. Would anyone be willing to help me when they get a chance with some extra free time please . Thanks in advance. I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado Extended Cab. I have 2 Skar Audio DDX-15 & a Hifonics Brutus 2400 mono Block. The extended back half is gutted out, no seat or anything. So plenty of room to work with. Am I missing anything? Thanks again guys, anyone point me in the right direction.

I was wondering what problems would I encounter if I put 2 of the same amps on 2 speakers in the same box. Wired independently of course. I have a 2 pioneer gm-d8601amps and 2 Skar Audio DDX-10 D2 subs. Like I said can I put this all in 1 box?

Hello. I have Carrozzeria bandpass subwoofer 25cm twin-drive TS-WX2500. that has positive and negative terminals on both sides, and both sides are interconnected, when i connect single side to my amp Kenwood av surround amplifier KA-V6000, one woofer has more excursion than other, do i need another amplifier or there is something wrong connecting those cable to subwoofer. plz help

Does anyone have a design and dimensions to build a slot (kerfed) single sub box for a massive KiloX104 subwoofer? I have these are areo ported specs but get lost trying to find slot port that I want to build. Attached to this I have added a spec sheet of the kiloX104. Thanks for any help given kilo_104.pdf

Hey Everyone! I have a new build underway and have come to the point to start designing the sub stage. I am going to run a single 12” in my Acura TLX, facing forward sealed off from the trunk. I am looking at subs of the Neo magnet variety and have been favoring the FI BTL series. I see there estimated build time is 10 to 15 business days on their website, however, I have heard people sometimes wait multiple months for their subs to arrive. My question is, has anyone ordered a sub from FI recently, and how long did it take to receive it? Thanks!

I need help figuring out my port Width, Length, and Height. I'm building two subwoofer boxes for my single cab ram. They're going to be wedge shaped. The cubic ft per box is 1.25 Top Depth=6" Bottom Depth=10 Height=15 Width=26 Going for 35 Hz I'm running a Skar Audio RP-1500.1D ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED! THANKS!

Can anyone help me find a high output alternator for a 2015 Nissan Sentra SV 1.8L? I can't seem to find one online anywhere. I currently have an Ignite r3000 amp and and an american bass xd 15 running at roughly 1000 watts at 1ohm. I also have an alpine amp thats 55x4 for my highs which are memphis. My stock alternator is 110amp and I can't seem to find anything higher! Please help

i need some box ideas or spec's i will be running 2x 12s mtx 9500s on one or two AQ2200's its a 4 door 09 Chevy Cobalt btw trunk is 44 wide 16 tall 20 deep i would have to build it inside the trunk at that size tho. i was thinking of making two of the same box then screwing them together inside the trunk. designs wood be nice, thanks to all

Hello! I am rebuilding some DC Audio Level 4 12's into 18's. I want to invert them to maximize as much volume as possible with my space restrictions. I was just wondering if anyone has any advise for mounting inverted subs properly? Just take your time and make sure everything is lined up to avoid surround rubbing? Do I need to have that rubber ring that goes on the basket lip to have a good seal? Or can I substitute something similar? I plan on using a double baffle, using a nice round over on the mounting hole, and insert nuts to mount. Also planning to make the box before going Frankenstein on the woofers so I can mock up/install insert nut with a empty basket for ease. TIA!

Can anyone tell me how much cu ft I need for 2 sundown x-12s on a sundown 4000d in a 4th order box. The sealed chamber is a single so both subs are in 1 chamber. The motor will be in the ported chamber. It will be a blow through with a 9x9 port that is 10.54” long (4.9” inside box , 4.9” outside box)

I was looking into the xmaxxx 15", I have been looking but I can't find the air requirements. Does anyone know the requirements, or could recommend a box, thank you!

Need help designing a ported or IB box for 2 sundown U12 subwoofers...i dont know the next next step for like porting.

So I called Crutchfield about adding a subwoofer system to my wife's 2014 Fusion Titanium Hybrid. She has had large systems in her last few vehicles, and does not want to stop here. However, a discussion with Crutchfield left me with some pretty disappointing information. He informed me that if I wanted to add an amplifier, it would have to be 350 watts or less, and a fuse no larger than 30 amps. I am aware that I will need to disable the Active Noise Cancellation mics in the headliner to avoid interference. My problem is this: My wife wants at least 500 watts RMS. Using the following equipment, does anyone see a problem with a modest 500 watt RMS system? 2nd battery: NVX XHC600 12V High Current Car Audio Power Cell Battery battery isolator: NVX BIR500 500 Amp Relay Isolator (BIR500) - Sonic Electronix capacitor: NVX XCAP1F True 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor w/Distribution Block Wired in this fashion: http://www.nvx.com/media/wysiwyg/BIR500.pdf Like I said, my target here is 500 watts RMS. See any reason why this shouldn't work?

I've been fixing subwoofers for a long, it's easy with lightweight subwoofers but heavy ones take much more time. So I decided to make a turntable for reconing because I couldn't find any with correct specs. It was hard to find a bearing which is large enough and works with heavy weight. I found "Lazy Susan" bearing meant for food serving. It is available in many sizes, I decided to use 6" (155mm) and it works great. All you need is two plywood pieces, eight screws and some time. I also added some carpet to avoid scratching the motor. Reconing is so much easier now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtW_w5W_P9M

This being my first post on the forums I will give a bit of background first before delving into my questions. I caught the bass bug when I was young, let's call it 1998 or there about. My buddy's neighbor was into lowriders and car shows and had a 2 door escort with a pair of rockford fosgate something in it that would make you sound as if you were using an Electrolarynx when speaking. 3 years later when I got my driver's license and my first vehicle I also got my first system. Since that time I have dabbled in car audio on and off. Between myself and friends who also dabble we have probably installed and uninstalled, at least a hundred different meh speaker systems. At times one or two of us had a system, sometimes 6 or 7 of us. We have upon occasion stripped multiple vehicles laid out all of the gear and mixed and matched gear and vehicles just to see what combination sounded the best. Clearly I am no stranger to DIY, but during all of these years I lacked so much knowledge. I did not know the names Thiele or Small or that programs such as WinISD even existed. I spent years in the dark playing with bottom of the barrel entry level gear. I mean I had some mid level gear here and there, JL Audio, midgrade Rockford Fosgate, but most of the people I was around thought you can't go wrong with Kicker, and RF P1s were the cream of the crop. A few years ago I was working in the oilfield with tons of time on my hands sitting around the motel in the evening, internet, and a desire to build a home theater system. Being 450 miles from home meant purchasing and building it weren't viable options so I was left with research. I am amazed now that anything I have ever built sounded worth a damn without knowing what I do now and would like to give a thanks to everyone here who has ever offered advice to one person and as a result help educate many like myself. I did pick up a few good deals here and there while on the road just to have some sort of bass in my truck and traded or sold for a profit and reinvested in other audio gear to the point where I am now sitting at $0 out of pocket. My current setup is a cheap Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503 that allows me to play music via bluetooth from my phone with some cheap RF 6.5 coaxials I bought to replace the crumbled factory speakers running on head unit power. I do have an NVX JAD800.4 I plan to use to supply power to the doors in the future when I decide what I want to upgrade them with. For my subwoofer I am running a Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 powered by a NVX VAD17001. I was a believer in the myth about smaller subs having faster punchier bass for the longest time and after learning different I went from running 8s or 10s to an 18. It's not a bad subwoofer really and I have several people who would gladly take it off my hands when I do upgrade, and I will probably even break even selling it with the enclosure I built for it. My current enclosure is just a 3ft^3 sealed enclosure which has an f3 of 30hz. It sounds pretty good, is moderately loud but overall I find myself underwhelmed. I want to port it just to see what it will do while I plan out my next upgrades and have designed an 8ft^3 enclosure tuned to 22hz that I think will sound pretty good with an f3 at 20hz instead of 30 and 4-7 db increase in spl over the entire range of the sub. My next upgrade will be either a mechman or singer 250a-270a alternator and I already have 1/0awg ofc for the big 3 as well as the power and ground to the amplifier. I have another question about alternators but I will come back to it after supplying and requesting more information on subwoofers and amplifiers. After that I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer to an 18" sq type sub. To clarify what I mean by sq, I am not looking for something that will blend in seamlessly with the soundstage. I am a bass head but I want a subwoofer that is detailed and doesn't blend double bass drums into an approximation of what they should be. Until this 18, I never realized how much I like low low bass, but I still want it to be clean. Spl is less important if it isn't crisp and clean, I would rather add a second sub to get the level of spl I want than sacrifice quality for it. This is some of the guidance I am asking for, I was looking at RE XXX but I am not even sure if they still make them. I am also looking at Fi Q series Neo 18s and trying to find other similarly recommended brands to research. I was a bit surprised by the subwoofers FS being 28hz and seeing other drivers in the same ballpark when my current sub has an FS of 19.5. I haven't yet had a chance to model the Fi in winisd but I plan to at some point today to see what I can get out of the low end. Do any of the current better quality subs dig as low as I am aiming for or am I going to readjust my expectations? When I upgrade subwoofers I am going to need an upgraded amplifier as well especially if I decide to add a second sub. What are the good brands out there? I see tons of amps flooding the market and amp dyno videos abound but what are the quality brands? I was looking at Crescendo Bass Clefs and was looking at Orion until I read a post dated sometime around March that leads me to believe Orion is not what it was. That is one of the downsides to passive research, information becomes outdated and eventually you have to stop asking google and ask people in the know. I am curious about how much amperage I truly need out of an alternator, and at what point would I have to run dual alternators. I have read somewhere that some people prefer running 270a alternators because of a better idle output than 300a+, if this is outdated information I may just get a higher output alternator to start with. I understand the math, hypothetically if I were to run dual Fi q neo 18s at 1750w each on a Crescendo BC4k with an efficiency of 70% (for a safe margin) that's 4500w at 14.4v you're talking 312a. But I don't play test tones, I don't compete in any sort of car audio competitions that would require that sort of full bore output. This whole setup will be a daily driver just for my own personal enjoyment, is there a somewhat accepted percentage of absolute power to actual music power demand that might necessitate the need for a second battery vs a higher output alternator? And are multiple extra batteries truly necessary for a daily driver when I don't sit around listening to music with my engine off? I apologize for the long read but have done as much research into the subject as I could to be able to ask the right questions (or so I think). I appreciate any guidance that you choose to offer me.

I am looking into purchasing two 15inch speakers. The manufacture is "Ultimate" model is PW1550. The speakers were originally made in the nineties. I was mainly wondering, for 300watts, is the 50oz magnet good enough? The xmax is .5inches...... Is fifty dollars worth it?

im in the process of building a ported box housing 2 15" kicker comps. goin in the back of my s10 ext cab. goin 7 cubes @ 33hz. and im stumped. this will be my first box build so i need ideas on designing this. so far this is what ive got, box width: 41 box height: 24 box depth top and bottom : 18 wood thickness: 0.75 square port height 22.5 square port width 4.3 square port L1 12.95 square port L2 12.95 total port lenght 32.4 square port diameter 11.09 square port area 96.75 box vol. (ft3) 6.662 tuned freq: 31.7 id like to be able to have the port firing forward on the passenger side and subs firing up. but this calculator im using isnt givin me any option but to fire both either up or forward together. what i need to know is how the inside should look or how to direct my air to the port ass efficiently as possible. and is my port to big for these subs. if so please give me any advice you can. thanks

Ok so i have seen many different answers on this and I am wondering on what is the correct answer. so my head unit is a pioneer FHX-520ui now on the head unit there is a bass Level, not bass boost but bass level it goes from -24 to + 6 its default setting is 0 when i am DD-1 tuning my set up should i set this at 0 or+ 6 or somewhere in between, i'm assuming this is Gain from the rca outputs, and if it does not matter what are the beniffits of tuning at 0 or +6 i just want to tune it for the best possible output, what i am currently running is in my signature as well, I also plan on upgrading to an AVH deck with 4v pream outputs because i feel like i can get better bass response out of these subs.

Hi, I recently purchased and installed my first sub system: Kenwood 9105D Mono-Amp @ 1800w max / 900 rms(2ohm) Dual Kenwood 12" w3013ps subs (bridged @ 2 ohms, 450rms per sub(400rms-1200w peak)) w/ 34-300 freq. response, recommended ported enclosure @ 2 cft tuned to 34hz 4 Gage power wires, 12 gage speaker wire, gold plated terminals etc Got most of it on sale, cost about $350 for everything from sonic electronix and crutchfield. The subs are in a Sound Ordnance dual 12 inch ported enclosure @ 1.63 cft per chamber, tuned at 33hz The subs sound too high pitched of bass, it's LOUD and shakes most of the car, it just doesn't sound quite right, I believe it has to do with the enclosure size and bad box tuning but I wanted to make sure, that's why I'm asking here. So my question is this, is the bass problem the size of the box, the tuning, or the high freq. response of the subs? or a mix of some of these. Right now the subs don't play below 40hz very well which I'm sure is because of the tuning and size of the box. I'm more than willing to build a box for these but I'm not sure if it's worth it if the subs still wont touch anything below 34hz, I see a lot of people here with boxes tuned to 30hz or less and I'm wondering if I should tune that low even though my response is only 34hz. Should I just buy new subs? Most of my music doesn't hit lower than 34hz but still, I want some ground pouding bass every once in a while, can't really afford anything much bigger right now with my financial situation. Any info would be helpful I'm just looking to soak up some data since I'm a beginner, a lot of the topics here are very helpful. Thanks!

please read the for sale section rules.

Whats up everyone, i'm new here and I'm really getting into car audio. Right now I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado that I threw 2 shallow P3 12's in. I really want something louder. I'm not quite ready to do a blow through, so I want my first build to be 4 Sundown SA-8's underneath the rear seat, facing the front. I want two 4" ports, one on each side. I'm extremely new to box building, but I learn very fast. I have a few questions, and I would also really appreciate some pointers & tips. Question #1: Since I want 4 subs with a port on each side of the box, am I going to need to put a center divider in the center of the box, so that I create two chambers, each with two subs and a 4" port? Question #2: The SA-8's recommended box volume is .5-.75 cu. ft. so should I simply take .5 and times it by four, giving me a 2 cu. ft. box volume for the 4 subs? That's all the questions I can think of...for now. Any tips or other help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks, Mike

I'm getting rid of my SPL setup I have currently ( one 12" DC lvl4 sub, ported box)and I'm throwing in a "behind the seat box" sealed enclosure... But here's my question as to what would sound better?? Either two 10" skar VD-10's or three? The box will be made the same dimensions for each set up so having two 10's I'm closer to what the subs call for in a sealed enclosure. Total inside box volume will be 1.5cubes the vd-10's call for .65 cubes per sub totaling 1.3cubes if I do two and the enclosure would technically be two small for 3 sealed vd-10's but they would fit. I can power both set ups efficiently just curious as to what would sound better, either 3 subs requiring 1500rms in a sealed box that's too small or two tens in a correct sized enclosure requiring 1000rms?

2 subwoofer 2amps for each subwoofer, stock battery stock alternator. Amp: Alpine Mrv500 Subwoofer #1 Renegade 12inch Subwoofer #2 Pioneer champion series Ts-W309D4, wired dual 4ohm Can each amp handle these subwoofers? I'm only asking because my Apline Mrv-500 get to hot to touch, so I am concerned. Both amps running off the stock battery with a distribution block for the power cable. Ps don't ask why I have 2 different subs, the other pioneer blew...

So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part.

I have never build a 4th order box and want to give it a shot. So any advice would be great. I have 2 Sundown zv4 15s D2 custom build for 2k rms each, wired to .5 ohm. I am wanting to do a C pillar build in my 97 4 door Blazer. This is currently on a BC3500 and later looking to get another one to push at 1 ohm a piece. My question is on the sealed side what would be the best sealed cubes. I was thinking of doing 4 cubes for both subs and 8 cubes ported and tuned to 40hz. Does this sound about right for 15s on both the sealed and ported? and is tuning it to 40hz good or should a do 45hz. I love the low lows. Thanks in advance. 97 S10 Blazer (4 Door) 4.3L 2 - Sundown Zv4 15s D2 custom built 2k rms each wired to .5ohm Crescendo BC3500.1 300 Amp Alt 3 - Group 31 AGM batteries