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Hello all, new member here and to the car audio family. I never had a system in the 90's when all the boys had them and now I have recently been super interested in getting something simple. We only have the 1 SUV for the whole family so going all out is out of the question. I really just want a single 12" ported enclosure. Leaning towards Kicker Comp Q (will need a recommendations for an enclosure), or an L7. Nothing too elaborate. My wife is not into "bass" as we are, so obviously I am going to need something that can be turned down whenever her and the kids are in the truck. I am assuming a bass knob will do the trick but not absolutely sure. As yall can see I am very green/new to all of this. I have "some" knowledge but not enough. Anyways, I know that car audio is more difficult now than it was back in the day. I have a 2021 Ford Expedition Max Limited with the 12 speaker B&O system on the factory SYNC3 head unit. From what I understand it cannot be "upgraded" w/o losing the SYNC3 functions etc. Correct me if I am wrong. Quite frankly I really don't necessarily need or want to replace the head unit nor any of the speakers (at least not yet). I plan on upgrading mids & highs later. I am just wanting to add a new (better) sub/amp. So, back to newer vehicles aren't as simple...I know that the factory stereo has bass roll off and I will have to install a LOC as well. Thoughts on the AudioControl LC-1.800, or LC-1.1500. I believe if I researched this correctly that it will kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you will by not having to purchase an LC2i(Pro)+amp, correct? Should I do the 800 or the 1500 is another question? Thoughts on DSP's, Epicenter Micro. Upgrades to electrical. All the small things etc. Any and all advise, criticism, recommendations is more than welcome. I could not find through the search function anything on my specific vehicle, so if anyone has a 4th gen expy or has installed in one, please feel free to reach out. My apologies for the rambling. I am new to all of this including forums and what the proper etiquette is in these things but im sure I'll be undoubtedly educated by someone. Thanks again. My email if anyone wants to reach out is [email protected] if that's your preference of communication. Thanks again. 🫡🤝🤜🤛 **If this is the wrong Forum/Sub-Forum, just let me know which forum to move it to & I will gladly** -
I plan to purchase some Sundown Audio equipment within the next 2 or 3 days, and I would like some suggestions on where to purchase it. No "brick and mortar" dealers near me, woofers etc. is not an option, 800 woofers is not an option, SSA is looking like my only option, so how is their shipping, customer service? I don't want to order from somewhere that has a ton of old stock, but don't want to wait 2 or 3 weeks for a build either. I have read mixed reviews on SSA's shipping times, but only from one side of course. Any other options other that the ones mentioned? Also would LOVE a coupon code, or forum member discount maybe?! Input appreciated!
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im in the process of building a ported box housing 2 15" kicker comps. goin in the back of my s10 ext cab. goin 7 cubes @ 33hz. and im stumped. this will be my first box build so i need ideas on designing this. so far this is what ive got, box width: 41 box height: 24 box depth top and bottom : 18 wood thickness: 0.75 square port height 22.5 square port width 4.3 square port L1 12.95 square port L2 12.95 total port lenght 32.4 square port diameter 11.09 square port area 96.75 box vol. (ft3) 6.662 tuned freq: 31.7 id like to be able to have the port firing forward on the passenger side and subs firing up. but this calculator im using isnt givin me any option but to fire both either up or forward together. what i need to know is how the inside should look or how to direct my air to the port ass efficiently as possible. and is my port to big for these subs. if so please give me any advice you can. thanks -
Whats up everyone, i'm new here and I'm really getting into car audio. Right now I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado that I threw 2 shallow P3 12's in. I really want something louder. I'm not quite ready to do a blow through, so I want my first build to be 4 Sundown SA-8's underneath the rear seat, facing the front. I want two 4" ports, one on each side. I'm extremely new to box building, but I learn very fast. I have a few questions, and I would also really appreciate some pointers & tips. Question #1: Since I want 4 subs with a port on each side of the box, am I going to need to put a center divider in the center of the box, so that I create two chambers, each with two subs and a 4" port? Question #2: The SA-8's recommended box volume is .5-.75 cu. ft. so should I simply take .5 and times it by four, giving me a 2 cu. ft. box volume for the 4 subs? That's all the questions I can think of...for now. Any tips or other help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks, Mike -
so i have recently(2 hours ago) bought a fi ssd 10 dual 1 ohm - running at 1000 rms and a MB Quart ONX1.1000D - running at 1000 rms at 1 ohm the car i have is a 2001 toyota echo so now i need to figure out if i should build a box or use the bassworx ported enclosure that came with my Kicker C104 (150 rms) ***may i add i dont know how big the box is.. and i dont have a tape measure handy at this point*** the fi ssd 10 Ported box: .6-1.2 cuft @ 33Hz kicker 1.25 - 1.75 cubic feet ( doesnt say at what frequency) any help would be wonderful and a side question capacitor or battery??? ill probably need one or the other...
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if i have a skar skv2 - 4500.1 WITH A 450 AMP FUSE RATING and it has two power inputs but im using dual inputs on each power input (2 1/0 to 1/0 reducer) what size fuse do i use on each power wire? -
Well guys, we're back with our second annual Sub Olympics! This is very different than the first time around. The response so far has been mostly positive but I wanted to put all the events up here and get some feedback for next time. Personally, I wanted to do some things differently this year but we were under a lot of time constraints. Let me know what you guys think! Event 1 - Low Frequency: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dE-bFXz9H8 Event 2 - Excursion: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wc8DwqQh_tk Event 3 - SPL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RYEbky8u3Y -
This week has Been Crazy!!! Just wrapped Up on a Bentley Flying Spur with a full Audio Upgrade On the Luxury Automobile. Here a list of what we need to accomplish on this car and have a week to do it. Update the front Grill so that will Call For a Mansory Lower Bumper Kit (chrome) Audio Processing Mosconi 6 to 8 DSP Processing Amplifiers for Sound Mosconi AS100.4S and AS100.2S. Turn the Car - Audio Control RTA Speakers Focal 165KRX3 and 165KRXS Bring the Bass Sub Focal 27KX Ipod Video - NavTV Video Kit and iPhone 5 Adapter Back up Camera BOYO VTL-375HD So Lets Build Some Kick ass audio for a Really Cool Old dude going thru second childhood -
I've always been curious as to if carpeting a box just helps aesthetically, or if it helps acoustically as well.? All input will be respected and honored! -
Anyone interested in a nice little MTX discount? Save yourself 25% on MTX amplifiers and subwoofers by using coupon code MTX25. MTX Amplifiers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m28_i22_mtx-car-amplifiers.html MTX Subwoofers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m28_i39_mtx-car-subwoofers.html We've got the subs to make you bump, the amps the make you dance, and the savings to satisfy your cravings! -
a video i thought was pretty humorous.. it's pretty old but i laughed! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX-Yq5V-BiI&feature=related
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The box is about 3.8 cubic feet, port is tuned to 28hz. -
Hello. I have Carrozzeria bandpass subwoofer 25cm twin-drive TS-WX2500. that has positive and negative terminals on both sides, and both sides are interconnected, when i connect single side to my amp Kenwood av surround amplifier KA-V6000, one woofer has more excursion than other, do i need another amplifier or there is something wrong connecting those cable to subwoofer. plz help
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Ok so i have seen many different answers on this and I am wondering on what is the correct answer. so my head unit is a pioneer FHX-520ui now on the head unit there is a bass Level, not bass boost but bass level it goes from -24 to + 6 its default setting is 0 when i am DD-1 tuning my set up should i set this at 0 or+ 6 or somewhere in between, i'm assuming this is Gain from the rca outputs, and if it does not matter what are the beniffits of tuning at 0 or +6 i just want to tune it for the best possible output, what i am currently running is in my signature as well, I also plan on upgrading to an AVH deck with 4v pream outputs because i feel like i can get better bass response out of these subs.
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I am looking into purchasing two 15inch speakers. The manufacture is "Ultimate" model is PW1550. The speakers were originally made in the nineties. I was mainly wondering, for 300watts, is the 50oz magnet good enough? The xmax is .5inches...... Is fifty dollars worth it? -
http://m1091.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/thaiboxing101/photobucket-38535-1339303687264.png.html?o=0&newest=1 One of my best buddies. New project coming together slowly. These go under the massive center channel and 10' tall line array mains. He's known for going overboard, but the moment someone says he'll never use what he has to its potential.....they find out he aint skeered! Cool if ya dig it. -
this is mine..moves air 2 fi ufo btls on a t4k @ 2 ohms. -
Components that count for this question are as follows: Amp: JBL GTO-751ez Sub/Box: Sundown SA-8v2 dual 4 ohm in 1.4 cubic feet net @ 33hz I know the enclosure's too big, especially for the power. That's why I've been GENTLE with it. I've got a lot of amp gain to go UP before it's 'tuned' (a long, long way)-- I tuned it up using the JBL setup cd and then proceeded to crank it way the hell down (to about 1/3rd of where the setup CD put it) because I didn't need any more to get full excursion. Max (tuned) volume at the Head unit is 30 (out of 50). I only rarely break 20...never played full tilt (can't stand the highs anymore past 25, rockfords are loud as hell!) Anyway, the sub cut out today on the way home. Dual 4 ohm sub is now reading 2.3 ohms and 3.5 ohms on the respective coils. I pulled the sub out of the box, and the coils look fine, as do the tinsels and spider so I'm hesitant to think I did any mechanical damage from the big box, but there's no burnt coil smell either. Actually smells like MDF sawdust and new woofer still. Only a few months old. Checked my connections (first thing I did, actually) and everything's good there. Anyone have any input? EDIT: Just measured the coils again. Dead-on 4.7 ohms per coil now. Perfect match. Either my DMM sucks (probably) or I'm a retard. -
I have never build a 4th order box and want to give it a shot. So any advice would be great. I have 2 Sundown zv4 15s D2 custom build for 2k rms each, wired to .5 ohm. I am wanting to do a C pillar build in my 97 4 door Blazer. This is currently on a BC3500 and later looking to get another one to push at 1 ohm a piece. My question is on the sealed side what would be the best sealed cubes. I was thinking of doing 4 cubes for both subs and 8 cubes ported and tuned to 40hz. Does this sound about right for 15s on both the sealed and ported? and is tuning it to 40hz good or should a do 45hz. I love the low lows. Thanks in advance. 97 S10 Blazer (4 Door) 4.3L 2 - Sundown Zv4 15s D2 custom built 2k rms each wired to .5ohm Crescendo BC3500.1 300 Amp Alt 3 - Group 31 AGM batteries -
So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part. -
If your into Sundown then this video should definitely hold your attention.. Actually, if your into car audio just the slightest bit, this video will do wonders for you. Filmed and edited by myself. This is Dennis Romasco's Isuzu with a badass 4th order inside. Watch VIDEO Comment Like SHARE and subscribe=] -
I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today- 493 replies
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I installed 2 rockford fosgate P3 2012 models on to a 500-1b mono block. after about an hour an a half of driving a night my radio started acting up. I would turn the volume and the radio would temporarily shut off. Would this imply that i need to upgrade my alternator or I could I just install a capacitor? As well I'm not sure what I wired my subs to. There 4 ohms with dual voice coils. One positive and negative to the other voice coil. Then to the box terminal to the amp. And same thing for the other. The two subs are not wired together. Im concered because i think that wiring to two 1-ohm sub loads, but Im not sure. If anyone could please explain it would be a big help.
