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DDM Tuning HID's


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I have three pairs of DDMs and all mine are good. Be careful with the 55W because they will produce more heat and might melt your housing.

I have zero issues with DRLs. Never heard of HIDs giving trouble there. I also drive an 04 Tahoe.

The difference between 35W and 55W is brightness, obviously. The color is also slightly more washed with 55W, so 8000K in 35W and 8000K in 55W will look different. 35W will be slightly bluer than the 55W.

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55w brighter than 35w, but washes out color slightly (makes blues slightly less blue, etc). daytime running lights wont affect hid's unless drl's are on the bulb that you plan to use hid's on. like, if you have separate low and high beams and drl's are on high beams and you install hid's on low beams, it will work fine. but if you have hi/lo bulbs or the drl is on the bulb you want to change to hid, then you have to find a way to disable the drl's (which is legal). sometimes its a fuse you can just pull, sometimes you have to cut a wire, sometimes you have to get a separate module for it .

if you go with the 55w though, get the hid harness. if you have hi/lo bulbs you wont need it since it comes with a relay system to control the hi/lo switch and it already hooks up straight to the battery to get power directly from there

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My friend got a pair for his civic - the ballasts were nothing but trouble for him.

But on the other hand: lots of people like them. So YMMV :shrug:

And I hope you are getting some sort of HID 'friendly' headlight housing / projector lens. I hate it when people toss HID bulbs in a housing designed for halogen bulbs. It's like having the sun glaring in my eyes at night...

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My friend got a pair for his civic - the ballasts were nothing but trouble for him.

But on the other hand: lots of people like them. So YMMV :shrug:

And I hope you are getting some sort of HID 'friendly' headlight housing / projector lens. I hate it when people toss HID bulbs in a housing designed for halogen bulbs. It's like having the sun glaring in my eyes at night...

x2 fucking this. i mean i have a corolla so its low to the ground, but i still adjusted the housings to point down somewhat cause its blinding as fuck. my buddy has 55's in his montero sport and its literally like staring into the sun, but blue. he doesnt point them down, i dont know why. when hes driving behind me he literally lights up everything inside my car. im surprised as shit how he hasnt gotten pulled over but i have twice for my lights...

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And I hope you are getting some sort of HID 'friendly' headlight housing / projector lens. I hate it when people toss HID bulbs in a housing designed for halogen bulbs. It's like having the sun glaring in my eyes at night...

This.

It really is a good idea to get proper projectors. For our trucks you can get the usual eBay Spyder ones.

Some DEPOs, which are slightly better than the Spyders, but they have a curved cutoff.

Or, you can do a retro which would be the best, but will be expensive and time consuming.

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These are the 55 Watts in my Cutlass. 6000k imo are the best. I've never gotten pulled over for them but they are blinding bright too lol

HID.jpg

92 Honda Prelude SI H23a3

HU: Alpine CDA-105

Front Stage: DB Drive PT6.0 6.5"

Rear Stage: Junk pioneers (Not sure what im wanting to do in the trunk, waiting)

Speaker Amp: DB Drive A4 4200

Sub Amp: MB Quart DSC1500.1

Subs: 2 12" MB Quart Premiums

Box: Slot port tuned to ~34hz

Wiring: Kicker Ultraflex 0awg and Big 3

Alt: Stock (saving for a 200amp Excessive Amperage)

Batteries: Optima Yellow Top and Stinger SPV44

Extra Equipment:

Two Rockford Fosgate T2 12's (Recones in future)

Kicker ZX1000.1

home_mbquart.jpg

Selling:

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35w or 55w shouldnt ruin stock housings. 55w in foglights is a different story though. my low beam housings are small as fuck and my 55's have been working perfectly fine in them for years. 35w shouldnt need a relay though, but it never hurts to get one. although if you have a hi/lo housing, the kit will come with a relay already

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