ehuber87 Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 current setup: alpine cda-9886 h.u jl audio c3-650 components (front) jl audio c2-690 coaxials (rear) jl audio 300/4v2 4ch (speakers) jl audio 12w3v3-4 woofer jl audio 500/1v2 mono (subs) The biggest question is... how can i use what I have to get the best, most accurate sound? Recently really got into electronic music and i've seen a few shows live...I want to be able to get that clean sound and power in my car! So here's what I've been thinking; buy new h/u (Alpine CDA-117) and PXA-H100 (IMPRINT processor + tuning kit) and dispose of my rear 6x9's...run "active" front stage (75w RMS to each tweeter and each 6.5" woofer) and throw my w3 in a sealed enclosure spec'd by JL Audio. Yay or nay? I want to be able to get solid mid-bass from my 6.5's, crisp highs from my tweets, and a full substage. Does anyone have experience with IMPRINT? Is it user friendly? Would I be better off with a full 32-band eq? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 I am not very familiar with IMPRINT so I will save that for someone else. I do have a couple tips for you though, that may help you. First, don't fall into the trap that a sealed box has tighter or more accurate bass than a properly built ported box. second, install is going to play at least as big a part as equipment in how everything sounds. You can have however many bands of EQ and a gazzilon processors but if your install sucks ass, it will sound that way too. Your equipment is some nice stuff so with a quality install you should be sounding very good! Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehuber87 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 I actually have two w3's and am building both a ported box and a sealed box...so i can intechange them as i see fit. I plan on using sound dampened on the doors and the trunk, although it will be my first fime installing dampened. Everything else i've been installing for years. My cars, friends cars and even a short i stall career at Visions Electronics while i was selling mobile audio equipment. I've done the big 3 and currently run larger than necessary wire all around. Install shouldnt be an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 I see alot of emphasis on product and nothing on installation for a stage and image ... Manily, what type of vehicle are we talking about here ??? Quote Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehuber87 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Im driving a 92 honda accord ex-r coupe. My component woofers are in the factory location and the tweeters i cut into the door panel beside the lock/handle mechanisms. The sub will be rear firing in the trunk. As mentioned above, i plan on placing dynamat on the doors and the trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Are you interested in bringing up your stage and image or just want better sound out of your system ??? why do you feel that running active is better than running passive on your front setup ?? Your rears are needed to make full sound ... if anything, I have my fader set to 3/4 to the front, and 1/4 to the rear ... making my front stage stronger and still having the rear ambience at the same time ... this will also make you fell you have a wider stage ingthe process if set up corectly ... As far as Im concerned, processing - time alignment - EQing should only be used when installation is set up at its maximum potential ... These tools should only be used to enhance the installation process ... make for more of a useful dynamic sounding system ... I'd like to see a pic or 2 of your fron stage ... maybe your tweeters need to be relocated up in the A-pillars to enhance your sound stage and image ... Here again, I'm only giving out suggestions ... Hope this helps out some ... Randal Quote Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehuber87 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 I've been on Soundman's forum quite a bit and a lot of people there suggesred it as a solution for the most accurate and clean sound im looking for. Currently im running passive to my feots and the rears off the deck and its not nearly as clean as im looking for. Tuned to a sample system JL Audio has posted with identical setup... Im just trying to find my sound, and i havent tried active yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 How much power do you have running to your components ?? and do you have proper deadning work done ?? Quote Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehuber87 Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 i havent done any dampening yet, no. i plan on doing the doors and the trunk...possibly the rear deck. My amp pushes 75w RMS to each speaker, unless i bridge it and put 150w RMS to the components alone... active would be 75w to each tweeter, and 75w to each woofer. My sub has 500w RMS once its back in the trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 The best way to get solid midbass from the 6.5s is going to be in your enclosure. It sounds like you are using the doors as the enclosures so the more solid and sealed you can make those doors the better low end response youll be able to get. I run my system off an alpine 9887 right now. I used to use imprint and I liked it. However, after using the capabilities of the unit myself (time alignment, crossover settings etc) I was able to get what was a better sound to me. After listening to the Imprint settings again it sounded like it tried to do too much and alot of the sound was lost. The EQ on the imprint is probably its main advantage with 500+ bands or whatever but if you have decent equipment and a solid install you shouldn't need that much EQ anyways. SO I would suggest avoiding the Imprint and getting a unit that will allow you to do that stuff manually instead. Also, once you go active you will never go back to passive! Good luck Quote My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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