Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Firstly, 1997 k1500 Silverado. My calipers/pads were locking up while driving causing a lot of heat and smell. Me and my dad replaced everything at once just for the hell of it and typically you have to do everything at once with brakes. (this fixed the calipers locking) This included: new master cylinder(was bench bleed), new brake lines, new rubber hoses to front calipers, new calipers, new pads, and new rotors. After all that we did your basic pump brakes and bleed all the lines, but ever since then it was still a squishy pedal. I was fine with it because I always start braking very early and was used to it. So a few months later, out of no where there is this 3 car dead stop in front of me from the first car that decides to suddenly turn. I slam on brakes and my foot slowly squishes almost to floor, and no skid, no black marks, just the truck not stopping in time. I hit this woman in front of me, picture below Anyways, my question is I've done some research and with the ABS system on my truck it's been said you need a scantool/computer to open and close ABS valves for a proper bleeding with no air. We never did this, and I wanted to know could this be the problem? If so, what shops would typically carry the tool to do this, besides the dealership? Left a chevy bowtie on her rear end though :] 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hmmmm maybe this is why i have a squishy pedal aswell.... 1998 c1500 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Some good info here, sounds just like my problem but who knows http://chevroletforum.com/forum/silverado-fullsize-pick-ups-21/1997-chevy-1500-brake-problem-32527/ 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Don't know if this will work... IF it even pertains to you. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Don't know if this will work... IF it even pertains to you. I can try that a few more times haha. But every single time I've slammed on brakes no 'locking up' or sliding ever occurs, just like a hard braking action. Even with both feet to the floor on pedal 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I had the same issue.... Got sick of it for the longest time. I went thru new everything on my tahoe trying to fix it. New drums, shoes, calipers, pads, rotors, master cylinder, bleed all 4 wheels and went thru a good 2+ quarts of fluid trying to fix the problem almost bought a new brake booster.... The fix was bleeding the abs box just like you do your lines It was next to the master cylinder on the driver side with a few lines brake lines on it. Didnt use any sort of scan tool, did it just like bleeding the rest of the brake system pump the brakes, loosen the fitting and bleed, tighten them up, repeat again. I did it on each line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I had the same issue.... Got sick of it for the longest time. I went thru new everything on my tahoe trying to fix it. New drums, shoes, calipers, pads, rotors, master cylinder, bleed all 4 wheels and went thru a good 2+ quarts of fluid trying to fix the problem almost bought a new brake booster.... The fix was bleeding the abs box just like you do your lines It was next to the master cylinder on the driver side with a few lines brake lines on it. Didnt use any sort of scan tool, did it just like bleeding the rest of the brake system pump the brakes, loosen the fitting and bleed, tighten them up, repeat again. I did it on each line. Damn, thanks man, that seems obvious now lol. So you only did the bleed once per line on the box and that was good enough? And after that do I need to do all my lines again? 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Alright so which fittings do you loosen and bleed on the ABS box? These top three are outputs (one to front left, one to front right, one to both rears) And these bottom two are inputs from the master cylinder (cant see the other one in picture) I'm thinking you bleed the outputs coming out of ABS but I seriously don't want to spend any more money into this shit. Thanks 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 (W/O JL4) Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure (Without JL4) Notice: When adding fluid to the brake master cylinder reservoir, use only Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. The use of any type of fluid other than the recommended type of brake fluid, may cause contamination which could result in damage to the internal rubber seals and/or rubber linings of hydraulic brake system components. Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice. Important: This procedure may be performed on all vehicles EXCEPT those equipped with option code JL4, Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (VSES). Important: The base hydraulic brake system must be bled before performing this automated bleeding procedure. If you have not yet performed the base hydraulic brake system bleeding procedure, refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual) Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure) before proceeding. Install a scan tool to the vehicle. Start the engine and allow the engine to idle. Depress the brake pedal firmly and maintain steady pressure on the pedal. Using the scan tool, begin the automated bleed procedure. Follow the instructions on the scan tool to complete the automated bleed procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test sequence. Turn the ignition OFF. Remove the scan tool from the vehicle. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Bleed the hydraulic brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual) Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure). With the ignition OFF, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal becomes firm, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the automated bleeding procedure inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection. See: Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF; check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes. See: Testing and Inspection\Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes Drive the vehicle to exceed 13 km/h (8 mph) to allow ABS initialization to occur. Observe brake pedal feel. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure (With JL4) Notice: When adding fluid to the brake master cylinder reservoir, use only Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. The use of any type of fluid other than the recommended type of brake fluid, may cause contamination which could result in damage to the internal rubber seals and/or rubber linings of hydraulic brake system components. Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice. Important: The base hydraulic brake system must be bled before performing this automated bleeding procedure. If you have not yet performed the base hydraulic brake system bleeding procedure, refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual) Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure) before proceeding. Install a scan tool to the vehicle. Start the engine and allow the engine to idle. Using the scan tool, begin the automated bleed procedure. Follow the instructions on the scan tool to complete the automated bleed procedure. Apply the brake pedal when instructed by the scan tool. Turn the ignition OFF. Remove the scan tool from the vehicle. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11®, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Bleed the hydraulic brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual) Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure). With the ignition OFF, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal becomes firm, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the automated bleeding procedure inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection. See: Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF; check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated. If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes. See: Testing and Inspection\Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes Drive the vehicle to exceed 13 km/h (8 mph) to allow ABS initialization to occur. Observe brake pedal feel. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loslam Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks but both of those procedures require a scan tool of which I do not have lol 1997 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab, 350 Vortec Things to come at some point... Build Log: http://www.stevemead...2200ds-133-ohm/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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