SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 The amp is a 300 watt kenwood 2 channel I have it hooked up to push 150 watts bridged at 4 ohms the sub is a pioneer TS-W252R its a really cheap sub but I'm looking for a new amp and a 18 but until then this is all I got thanks man. Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Well its cool man but the new amp I'm looking at when I upgrade has a clipping light and I might try and get the DD-1 destortion detector. And sorry for blowing up I just heard if you didn't have an oscope it was perfectly fine to do it with a multimeter its only gain like 1/4 of the way. But yeah my other subs well it was only one 12 the only worked but its was rigged with a little peice of metal which caused it to spark and it melting part of the cone haha. Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 But I don't think I did it correctly I usually just do it by ear or turn it like 1/4 of the way until I get the necessary equipment. Plus I didn't think like 150 watta would hurt anything lol. I've tried the multimeter only a few times haha. Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Well its cool man but the new amp I'm looking at when I upgrade has a clipping light and I might try and get the DD-1 destortion detector. And sorry for blowing up I just heard if you didn't have an oscope it was perfectly fine to do it with a multimeter its only gain like 1/4 of the way. But yeah my other subs well it was only one 12 the only worked but its was rigged with a little peice of metal which caused it to spark and it melting part of the cone haha. clipping lights are barely accurate, at best. dd1 would be your best choice to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Alright man thanks. And you recommend the dd1? So what are you running in your car? Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Alright man thanks. And you recommend the dd1? So what are you running in your car? i've never used it cause i have an oscope myself, but its cheaper than a scope and judging from videos, works better than one too. my equipment is in my sig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) The sub itself is 120 W RMS. Watch for clipping, check the wiring to the battery ad the electrical, start with low gain. So here is the suggestion, I could tune lower but it's going to loose output most likely: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.033 Hz Vb = 1.291 ft^3 External Height = 12 in External Width = 20.25 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 1 5/8 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 17 7/8 x 10 1/2 Back = 20 1/4 x 10 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 10 1/2 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 10 1/2 Top & Bottom = 20 1/4 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 7/8 x 10 1/2 Extension = 10 1/2 x 10 1/2 If you want to change anything, let me know. Edited March 7, 2012 by Joe X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballen194 Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 I have a dd1 and yes of course I recommend a dd1. It'll save your subs from death and burnt coil Quote 98 Isuzu Rodeo Pioneer Deh-6300ub SUBS*Upcoming* SSA Xcon 18 4th order AMP Banda 3500 Mids/Highs Pioneer EQ Clarion EQS746 ETC. Two 1/0 run's KnuKoncepts 1/0 big 3 Shuriken BT-100 under the hood Shuriken BT-120 in the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Okay sweet. Oh my bad I'm on mobile it doesn't show signatures. Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMZ2 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 I only have one sub man in your sketch it shows 2 could you draw up a sketch with deminsions. Thank you. Quote My Build Log!http://www.stevemead...nissan-xterror/ Check the Youtube Channel for Updates!http://www.youtube....ser/Xterror2002And Seller Feedbackhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163179-bought-from-smz2/#entry2363713 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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