JOHNSON712 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Posted March 9, 2012 I was in a local stereo shop just bsing about stuff, and i started talking to him about the way my lights dim like crazy in my car when my system hits. I asked if a better battery and h/o alt would be the best way to go. He agreed but said i would spend an arm and a leg. At least $200 for a good bat. and $400 or more for a h/o alt. I use to have a 1.5 fard cap in my car and it didnt do anything. Ive got a volt meter hooked up and at idle on a good day it sits at 14.5 to 14.8. when my subs hit on certain songs it drops all the way down to 12.5 or sometimes lower. he brought up a powercell which is basically a small battery from what he said. it has enough power to start a car. idk wat brand it is. but he said its half the size of a battery. basically its a high end cap. have you guys heard of these at all??? just curious. i dont have alot of money to spend and these are only $150 through the stereo shop. JENSEN 7" FLIP OUT H/U *2 5 1/4 PIONEER DOOR SPEAKERS *4 PLANET AUDIO TWEETERS *2 6X9 PIONEER SPEAKERS *2 12 POWERBASS 3XL'S 3000 WATT POWERBASS AMP
Lbox88 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Posted March 9, 2012 If you can splurg a little bit more, there this. or go a little less with something like this. What kind of power cell are they offering you now? and what do you have as far as an alt and wiring? Have you done the big 3? UBL | Build Log
slim2fattycake Posted March 9, 2012 Report Posted March 9, 2012 its just a battery. SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some.
JOHNSON712 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Posted March 9, 2012 i havent done the big 3 yet i was just looking at that today. thinking about. i have a high interstate battery and stock alt. with that second one you sent would i just run power wire from the battery to it and then ground it or would i have to have it hooked up to alt? JENSEN 7" FLIP OUT H/U *2 5 1/4 PIONEER DOOR SPEAKERS *4 PLANET AUDIO TWEETERS *2 6X9 PIONEER SPEAKERS *2 12 POWERBASS 3XL'S 3000 WATT POWERBASS AMP
BFF Larry Posted March 9, 2012 Report Posted March 9, 2012 if you got the room, get one of those batts LBox suggested, i dont really go anywhere close to caps or something of that being. Team Clearly Louder (MECA)Team DC Audio ++* SELLING the CACTUS SOUNDS K12 for $1550 shipped *++ HMU!!! 3 flips. nollie flips. big flips. hardflips. - steez Youtube Channel My Build Log 95 Bonneville SSE - WALLED/4th Order - ~30 cubes - *thanks LoganBerry, CortezDVT, Cj18, SuperCharged DC, Ryan-RAM Designs,LoudNLow931*
JOHNSON712 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Posted March 9, 2012 ya i was checking it out its cheaper, xs, with same 1000 amps which is what the guy said that other one put out. JENSEN 7" FLIP OUT H/U *2 5 1/4 PIONEER DOOR SPEAKERS *4 PLANET AUDIO TWEETERS *2 6X9 PIONEER SPEAKERS *2 12 POWERBASS 3XL'S 3000 WATT POWERBASS AMP
Lbox88 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Posted March 9, 2012 And you get free shipping I believe as well as supporting one of the vendors! Do the big 3 with some 1/0 which will also help. For the extra battery, do either 1 run of positive back and then negative of back batt to frame, or do a run of + & - from the front battery to the back. UBL | Build Log
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