siucsaluki11 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Ive had a Kenwood 9104D since early 2009 in my daily driver seeing a 2 ohm load. Yesterday morning on the drive to work, it worked just fine. On my way home, it quit, kind of. It works as long as i don't push it at all. I have a CDA-9887 and if i go past 20 ill get 1 good solid hit then it cuts out for a few seconds then comes back for another good hit and keeps doing this. I can only assume that means my amp is toast yes? Anyone got any good cheap replacement recommendations, looking for 800-1200w RMS at 2 ohms. Currently in school about 40hrs a week, so i only get to work 4-8 hrs a week, so money is really tight. Was hoping to save this money and put it towards some studio monitors, but i can't stand not having subs. And monitors and acoustic treatment for a room costs more than an amp anyway, lol. If i can save up I'm thinking of just getting the AQ1200, but id have to change a lot of my lifestyle to save the money up (i know its not much, but when you are at school down town chicago and commute every day, can't bring a lunch cuz theres no fridge, cost of living aint cheap when you can't work). Not opposed to used amps off this board, but would like to go new. Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 What sort of voltage are you getting at the amp when it cuts out? It might be a loose ground or other bad connection. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 best i can tell, that amp could only do 300-400w at 2ohm, at best. so if you really want to get 1000w you are more than tripling your power. can the subs handle that? can you electrical? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 sounds like its protecting, then unprotecting, then protecting again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 best i can tell, that amp could only do 300-400w at 2ohm, at best. so if you really want to get 1000w you are more than tripling your power. can the subs handle that? can you electrical? it puts out about 700 at 2 ohms in reality. And yes, the subs can handle the power, I'm under powering them currently. Used to have a real old RF T1000 on the pair when they were in my blazer. sounds like its protecting, then unprotecting, then protecting again thats what i was thinking, its nice out, i may pull the back seat and check voltages and pull the fuses out of my amp and check them. But it sounds like its going into protect over and over again, which means its time to replace it. Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vibrator Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Give it a good clean out,dust can do alot to electrical. Quote Henry Ford once received a letter from a depression-era bank robber responsible for the deaths of several law enforcement officers, killed in their attempt to stop him as he fled the crime scene. In his letter, he thanked Mr. Ford for making his Model A Ford such a good getaway car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 sounds like its protecting, then unprotecting, then protecting again thats what i was thinking, its nice out, i may pull the back seat and check voltages and pull the fuses out of my amp and check them. But it sounds like its going into protect over and over again, which means its time to replace it. While you are doing that: Check the impedance on the subs too. Make sure they read what they are supposed to and nothing is shorting out. Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 unless i came across the wrong amp, that kenwood has 60 amps of fusing. so thats about 600w, 2ohm puts you well under that since its a 1ohm amp. so in reality, it cant physically do 700w at 2ohm or anywhere near that. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 unless i came across the wrong amp, that kenwood has 60 amps of fusing. so thats about 600w, 2ohm puts you well under that since its a 1ohm amp. so in reality, it cant physically do 700w at 2ohm or anywhere near that. Seeing as i know I'm not maintaining 14.4v with stock electrical, well assume 12v, 12v*60A=720watts....thats watts law for you. IIRC, impedance has nothing to do with this side of watts law. But, now, this is all going off shit i haven't looked up in years...amps are more efficient at higher loads (draw less power that they convert into heat rather than output voltage). Even though we know its not 100% efficient, and i know I'm not dropping all the way down to 12v, i think its safe to say yes, it makes the 700 i said. P=V*I and 720=12*60. Resistance doesn't come into play in watts law. Some amps can make the same output at different resistances, depends on the amp design, i know mine isn't that fancy, its a POS, it was cheap, so i grabbed it. But i can say this, i know what its putting out, set the gains using P=V^2/R, and didn't allow for clipping. I know it isn't making rated power, but you're really underestimating my amp. Now can we get off the trash my shitty kenwood game and get on topic?? Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 sounds like its protecting, then unprotecting, then protecting again thats what i was thinking, its nice out, i may pull the back seat and check voltages and pull the fuses out of my amp and check them. But it sounds like its going into protect over and over again, which means its time to replace it. While you are doing that: Check the impedance on the subs too. Make sure they read what they are supposed to and nothing is shorting out. its such a nice day but I'm dead from partying last night, lol. That and i wanna go frisbee golfing.....ugh, guess its time to get moving Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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