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RHD Accord Fosgate 1400watt rms


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it don't always have to be a wall of 18's to get respect......this is a nice clean system and it looks like you took your time to do the wiring nice and clean. You seem to care about your ride. I like the RHD too. Good luck on SOTM this month bro.


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That's a great system you put together. I especially like the enclosure and the way it looks like it blends with the floor. Very very cool!!!

Not to thread jack but, how come we don't see more RF T1 and T2 subs in builds? Are they not as good as some of the competitors?

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That's a great system you put together. I especially like the enclosure and the way it looks like it blends with the floor. Very very cool!!!

Not to thread jack but, how come we don't see more RF T1 and T2 subs in builds? Are they not as good as some of the competitors?

its not so much of what better it the price mostly. a t2 sub is retailed at 800+ while other subs that are just good can get as low as 400-500 and can be reconed.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Be sure to check out my Skyline GTR build im working on. Going to be sick and ten times cleaner. (link in the sig)

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NISSAN SKYLINE GTR R32 (Build in progress)Fosgate POWERhttp://www.stevemead...-fosgate-power/--------------------------------------------------------------------97 Honda AccordRockford Fosgate1400 watts RMS totalhttp://www.stevemead...e-1400watt-rms/---------------------------------------------------------------------

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  • 5 months later...

its come to my attention that none of my pics are showing up. so ill get that fixed after work

domo.gif

NISSAN SKYLINE GTR R32 (Build in progress)Fosgate POWERhttp://www.stevemead...-fosgate-power/--------------------------------------------------------------------97 Honda AccordRockford Fosgate1400 watts RMS totalhttp://www.stevemead...e-1400watt-rms/---------------------------------------------------------------------

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  • 4 weeks later...

This is for all the people telling me to "ditch the cap"

Stole this from and old thread about rockford capacitors.. said by snafu

Capacitors do 2 things.

1. Store charge
2. Oppose changes in voltage

Now, both of those things sound mighty nice to me. To understand how a cap benefits a car audio system, one has to first understand that there are TWO separate voltage plateaus available in an automobile:

1. Running - With the alternator charging, voltages will typically be from 13.8 to 14.4 VDC
2. Not running - With the alternator IDLE, voltages will typically be from 12.0 to 12.6 VDC

I'll take the higher of the two any day. For UNREGULATED amps, this allows them to draw MORE current therby making more power. For REGULATED amps, this allows them to draw LESS current to make their rated power. Either way, it's a WIN for you. So, how do we ensure the higher of the two?

Again, simple. With the vehicle running, consider the DELTA between what the alternator can make and what the nominal voltage the batteries can provide is. For this example, lets assume 14.4 VDC - 12.6 VDC = 1.8 VDC. When we exceed the current output capability of the alternator, it's voltage output is compromised. In some cases, heavy demands of amplifiers can far exceed the current capability of the alternator, leaving us with only the reserve of current within the battery. But, car batteries weren't intended to power amplifiers . . . they were intended to start cars [battery = Load with vehicle running.] A really fresh car battery can do this for a while, but given that we're exceeding the output capability of the alternator, it's charge isn't getting replenished quickly enough - need about 13.0 VDC minimum to allow charge to flow back into the battery.

A properly sized capacitor will change the rules. With the vehicle running, it stores charge at the higher voltage plateau - 14.4 Volts. As the amplifiers demand current, it will flow from the place of least resistance . . . Ohm's Law tells us that happens to be the place with the highest voltage. That will be in order:

1. The capacitor (closest)
2. The alternator
3. The battery

Ideally, you've selected the correct size capacitor for your system's needs. And . . . that "30F" cap that sells for $59 in a blue velvet box with chrome and a big blue LED readout is just a glorified volt meter These devices have ZERO benefit. There is a reason why quality capacitors cost money, and ours are no exception. These are the facts:

1. A 1 Farad capacitor can store and release 72 Joules (watt*second) of energy at 12 Volts.
2. Said capacitor can charge and discharge hundreds of times faster than an automitive battery of any kind.
3. Capacitors present nearly no load to a properly set up charging system.
4. Automotive batteries require 7 to 10 amps of current EACH to allow charge to flow into them.
5. Capacitors work GREAT for every day street systems.
6. The benefits or capacitors are negated in SPL competitions.

For best results, I recommend locating capacitors within a foot of the amplifier - as in, no more than 12 inches of wire between the capacitor and the amplifier. The further away from the amp they are, the less of a benefit they offer.

domo.gif

NISSAN SKYLINE GTR R32 (Build in progress)Fosgate POWERhttp://www.stevemead...-fosgate-power/--------------------------------------------------------------------97 Honda AccordRockford Fosgate1400 watts RMS totalhttp://www.stevemead...e-1400watt-rms/---------------------------------------------------------------------

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