Sergeant_Skyrim Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 Big 3, and everything else! All that's been done with what I've got now was done by my dad, but I've been working the past few months trying to get enough to upgrade and all. All he really did was just use the kit that came with the MTX enclosure he bought in '06 I think it was and basically the only thing that's changed since then has been the MTX 100 watts RMS a piece subs to 2 Kicker Comp 12s. So I'm going to be upgrading every bit of wiring that I can Build in progress
Sheena Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 let me run up some ROUGH estimates.. ill edit this post when im done 10' Big 3 23' 1 run 1/0 from batt pos to amp pos, 3' from amp to ground in rear (i guessed 20 feet from your batt under your hood to your amp, probably be better off with like 17ish, you'd have to measure) depends where your amp is in relation to your subs, i'll do 5 feet for the speaker wire. 5' 12 ga speaker wire $3.75 (.75 a foot) 33' of 1/0 OFC $130.35 ($3.95 a foot) going to need like 15-20 1/0 terminals, anl fuses and fuse holders.. so roughly like $200-250 for complete wire kit 09 Civic EX KDC-X395 (2) SKAR Audio VVX-12 Skar Audio SK-1500.1 4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon) Firing Forward not sealed off Stock 80 Amp Alt Big 3 In 1/0 Knu 2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu DD-1'd 13.8v drop
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 let me run up some ROUGH estimates.. ill edit this post when im done Alright thanks a lot man, I really appreciate it. I'm figuring probably at least a couple $100, but I honestly have no idea. I should be back in a couple hours to check with you, gotta finish making sure that this box is all set to finish being built for the most part tomorrow =) Build in progress
crunkjuice1 Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 Idle output and alternator turn on speed of your engine RPM are things to look into as well. any rating on on alts most times are when alts are cold, once the engine bay and alt warms up they will do less output. Find out what they put out "HOT" at idle.
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Posted March 17, 2012 Idle output and alternator turn on speed of your engine RPM are things to look into as well. any rating on on alts most times are when alts are cold, once the engine bay and alt warms up they will do less output. Find out what they put out "HOT" at idle. Never thought of that, but I suppose it does make sense. Guess I'll be emailing back to see =) Build in progress
Rebel4055 Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 If it's from a company like mechman they do hot and cold tests... Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/
crunkjuice1 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Posted March 18, 2012 still worth it to find all that out ahead of time regardless who makes it.
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