lalojamesliz Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 ^^ Correct. Use them both. Connect your OEM wiring AND 1/0 cables directly from the alternator to the primary battery using the lugs provided. Improperly sized lugs can cause heat damage to the rectifier. Do not ground it to the engine, chassis or anything other than the battery negative. why cant it be grounded to the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ExSport Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 ^^ Correct. Use them both. Connect your OEM wiring AND 1/0 cables directly from the alternator to the primary battery using the lugs provided. Improperly sized lugs can cause heat damage to the rectifier. Do not ground it to the engine, chassis or anything other than the battery negative. why cant it be grounded to the chassis? Because after it goes through the chassis, your stock ground wire connecting chassis to battery will burn up, or be the bottleneck in your electrical. Run alt - straight to batt -, he's not saying don't do an extra batt - to chassis ground, if that's what you're thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 The ground from the unit to the battery is to reduce ground resistance. Simplest way to explain it is that you aren't charging your block, you are charging your battery, and the most direct connection possible will be the path of least resistance. With the alternator directly grounded to the battery with 1/0 cable you will not need additional grounds to the engine other than the OEM. You will want to add 1/0 grounds from your batteries to the chassis for your audio if you are grounding direct to chassis and not direct to the battery. Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sps1989 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Finally installed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ExSport Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Damn, that's a monster in comparison to stock! I'm digging the fuse holder holder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sps1989 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks man. And yeah this thing is a beast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Looks Good! Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77-AUDIO Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 looks good. has it made a difference. Quote PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sps1989 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Yeah. Can definitely tell a difference. Before about 800 watts would dim the lights, but now its staying strong at about 14.2 volts. Oh and when I'm ready to take the full 2000+ watts from my amp, would I need to run another power wire to the amp or would an extra charge line on the battery cover it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunkjuice1 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 whats your battery setup in the back? I assume if you have enough battery reserve for a 4ch and a mono block amp connect the power and grounds of each amp to the secondary battery/batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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