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lol i hope trolling

Pretty sure it was a serious question. No need to be condescending.

Does that car have a MAF sensor?

bov's are typically like the capacitor in the car audio world. Pointless in most situations and can make your car run rich.

who buys a modified car they know nothing about. And it needs a bov, all turbo cars do. dont give out information if you dont know what your talking about.

Well at least he's trying to help. I know a few things about the car.

The hose that goes to control the boost came off so it was running quite a bit of boost so that's why it kept popping off.

2 polk audio 4x6'skenwood head-unit 220 amp Mechman alt1979 Corvette

2003 corvette z06

alpine radio and the bose system that came stock

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lol i hope trolling

Pretty sure it was a serious question. No need to be condescending.

Does that car have a MAF sensor?

bov's are typically like the capacitor in the car audio world. Pointless in most situations and can make your car run rich.

who buys a modified car they know nothing about. And it needs a bov, all turbo cars do. dont give out information if you dont know what your talking about.

\

Are you kidding me? Not all turbos need them. A diverter valve is more efficient than a bov. Ricers just like the bov because of the psssssh sound.

And the fact more than one person agrees does not make it a circle jerk, it makes it a bukkake scene and you're in the middle ;)

Chick took 3 shots of Jager, and then, pissed in my mouth..

B5 Passat Build Log

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Explain to me how a BOV hurts a boosted car. It is nothing like a cap. Shit, post the boosted car that blew up because of a BOV!lol I have two turbos in my boosted car and the blow off valve stops the heads from blowing off the block!lol

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/\ facepalm at this guy.. ( yes it CAN be done )... bov create boost spikes and everyone knows boost spikes are BAD......and you dont need a bov..... the internal wastegate can wok perfectly fine and its adjustable up to a certain point. <--if used on a stock turbo duh lol... then you either get the wastegate actuator crushed to allow more boost ( which isnt the right way of doing it) or you could buy a manual boost controller or if you use a stand alone computer to run the engines a/f ratio, timing, etc. it should have a boost controller built in..... oh and airborne i wanna see pics of said boosted car running twin turbo's.... WITH your name and date on a paper so we know its legit.... not to be a dick....

op if you have oil anywhere in the intake (cold side) or exhaust (hot side) of the turbo you have a leaky turbo....its burning oil and needs to be rebuilt. also its a good idea to let the car run for like 5 to 10 minutes after driving to let the turbo cool down. you can buy a turbo timer specifically for this that way you can just take your key with you and the car will shut down after perdetermined time has been reached. i can tell you alot about turbo management but also i have alot to learn.....

also op while you have the piping from the turbo opened up and off the cold side...check for shaft play... grab the impeller blade and try to wiggle it side to side in and out.....sure fire way to tell if its a healthy turbo or not lol.

pm me if you have any questions

-jarrid

oh n ZACH.... you obviously know nothing about forced induction with a comment like that.....leave the turbo talk to people that know a lil more about the subject instead of trolling......op wanted help and you came back with nothing to add.

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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bov or diverter valve do the same thing just put the air ito a diiferent place. diverter routes in back into the intake tract bov usually vents to atmosphere. thery are there to help relive pressure between the throttle plate when it closes and the blades on the cold side of the turbo, also help to keep the speed of the turbo up between shifts by lessening the back pressure on the turbo. the wastegate is there to regulate boost and that is all it does. also a properly functioning bov/dv does not create boost spikes. pull intercooler and wash out with lots carb cleaner and all piping as well check turbo for shaft play re assemble. check for vacum leaks and loose lines. if that is a stock block you probably dont want to go any higher than 15# of boost and thats if everything like tuning and fueling is spot on damn near perfect. 10# is a much safer bet on that motor with decent tuning.

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/\ facepalm at this guy.. ( yes it CAN be done )... bov create boost spikes and everyone knows boost spikes are BAD......and you dont need a bov..... the internal wastegate can wok perfectly fine and its adjustable up to a certain point. <--if used on a stock turbo duh lol... then you either get the wastegate actuator crushed to allow more boost ( which isnt the right way of doing it) or you could buy a manual boost controller or if you use a stand alone computer to run the engines a/f ratio, timing, etc. it should have a boost controller built in..... oh and airborne i wanna see pics of said boosted car running twin turbo's.... WITH your name and date on a paper so we know its legit.... not to be a dick....

op if you have oil anywhere in the intake (cold side) or exhaust (hot side) of the turbo you have a leaky turbo....its burning oil and needs to be rebuilt. also its a good idea to let the car run for like 5 to 10 minutes after driving to let the turbo cool down. you can buy a turbo timer specifically for this that way you can just take your key with you and the car will shut down after perdetermined time has been reached. i can tell you alot about turbo management but also i have alot to learn.....

also op while you have the piping from the turbo opened up and off the cold side...check for shaft play... grab the impeller blade and try to wiggle it side to side in and out.....sure fire way to tell if its a healthy turbo or not lol.

pm me if you have any questions

-jarrid

oh n ZACH.... you obviously know nothing about forced induction with a comment like that.....leave the turbo talk to people that know a lil more about the subject instead of trolling......op wanted help and you came back with nothing to add.

Well now, looks like an internet dance fight. I am in Sanford, NC. Anyone is welcome to come see my VR4. Shit, I could use some help putting the Damp pro in it! I hate taking out seats alone...

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lmao /\ if i was closer i would love to help ya..... wouldnt mind checkin out a turbo'd car :D

wasnt sayin ya didnt have it btw just wanted proof.....and something to drool at lmao

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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Share on other sites

lmao /\ if i was closer i would love to help ya..... wouldnt mind checkin out a turbo'd car :D

wasnt sayin ya didnt have it btw just wanted proof.....and something to drool at lmao

My friend died and his widow gave me his car, 91 VR4 completely stock. Needed a little TLC but a rocket ship none the less. You learn shit loads working on a twin turbo'd 21 year old car...

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/\ facepalm at this guy.. ( yes it CAN be done )... bov create boost spikes and everyone knows boost spikes are BAD......and you dont need a bov..... the internal wastegate can wok perfectly fine and its adjustable up to a certain point. <--if used on a stock turbo duh lol... then you either get the wastegate actuator crushed to allow more boost ( which isnt the right way of doing it) or you could buy a manual boost controller or if you use a stand alone computer to run the engines a/f ratio, timing, etc. it should have a boost controller built in..... oh and airborne i wanna see pics of said boosted car running twin turbo's.... WITH your name and date on a paper so we know its legit.... not to be a dick....

op if you have oil anywhere in the intake (cold side) or exhaust (hot side) of the turbo you have a leaky turbo....its burning oil and needs to be rebuilt. also its a good idea to let the car run for like 5 to 10 minutes after driving to let the turbo cool down. you can buy a turbo timer specifically for this that way you can just take your key with you and the car will shut down after perdetermined time has been reached. i can tell you alot about turbo management but also i have alot to learn.....

also op while you have the piping from the turbo opened up and off the cold side...check for shaft play... grab the impeller blade and try to wiggle it side to side in and out.....sure fire way to tell if its a healthy turbo or not lol.

pm me if you have any questions

-jarrid

oh n ZACH.... you obviously know nothing about forced induction with a comment like that.....leave the turbo talk to people that know a lil more about the subject instead of trolling......op wanted help and you came back with nothing to add.

Well now, looks like an internet dance fight. I am in Sanford, NC. Anyone is welcome to come see my VR4. Shit, I could use some help putting the Damp pro in it! I hate taking out seats alone...

anyone with a VR4 should have the motor trend with it on the cover pulling the front wheel off the ground in the test of the car. had a DSM myself there definatly a love hate relationship.

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/\ facepalm at this guy.. ( yes it CAN be done )... bov create boost spikes and everyone knows boost spikes are BAD......and you dont need a bov..... the internal wastegate can wok perfectly fine and its adjustable up to a certain point. <--if used on a stock turbo duh lol... then you either get the wastegate actuator crushed to allow more boost ( which isnt the right way of doing it) or you could buy a manual boost controller or if you use a stand alone computer to run the engines a/f ratio, timing, etc. it should have a boost controller built in..... oh and airborne i wanna see pics of said boosted car running twin turbo's.... WITH your name and date on a paper so we know its legit.... not to be a dick....

op if you have oil anywhere in the intake (cold side) or exhaust (hot side) of the turbo you have a leaky turbo....its burning oil and needs to be rebuilt. also its a good idea to let the car run for like 5 to 10 minutes after driving to let the turbo cool down. you can buy a turbo timer specifically for this that way you can just take your key with you and the car will shut down after perdetermined time has been reached. i can tell you alot about turbo management but also i have alot to learn.....

also op while you have the piping from the turbo opened up and off the cold side...check for shaft play... grab the impeller blade and try to wiggle it side to side in and out.....sure fire way to tell if its a healthy turbo or not lol.

pm me if you have any questions

-jarrid

oh n ZACH.... you obviously know nothing about forced induction with a comment like that.....leave the turbo talk to people that know a lil more about the subject instead of trolling......op wanted help and you came back with nothing to add.

Well now, looks like an internet dance fight. I am in Sanford, NC. Anyone is welcome to come see my VR4. Shit, I could use some help putting the Damp pro in it! I hate taking out seats alone...

anyone with a VR4 should have the motor trend with it on the cover pulling the front wheel off the ground in the test of the car. had a DSM myself there definatly a love hate relationship.

no shit! If you can keep your foot out of it from time to time it can last forever, but it will no shit eat the speedometers lunch before you can say "what seems to be the problem officer"lol

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