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Can i keep my stock battery and buy a xs power d3400. And use them together. Ill be using around 1500 rms . I have 0 guage batt wire to back. I have a 130 amp alt. Would there be any problems.

<p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270

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I need this answered too..

wooohoo!

-Acura RL 2005. Blue.

-Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only

-(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils

-Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz

-Audioque 1200D amplifier

A tribe called quest... ftw

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hahahaha damn! anwer=not answered

wooohoo!

-Acura RL 2005. Blue.

-Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only

-(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils

-Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz

-Audioque 1200D amplifier

A tribe called quest... ftw

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So should i get a h/o first I cant get both as of now. What would be more important to get less of a voltage drop. I drop down to around 11.5 when i turn it up.

<p>Pioneer AVIC 6000 NEX, JBL 660c Components - FI SP415- Arc audio xdi2000.1- Xs Power- 0 gauge, Big 3 Upgrade Dc Power xp270

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idk but u can get a 220 amp ho alt off ebay for like 160

lmao, ya. then a week later you will come back here asking why your voltage drops to 12 when the car is idling. then we will tell you that your alt is a POS and doesnt produce any power at idle speeds. how about you just give me the $160 for saving you that headache since you would have thrown that money away anyways.

you can keep the stock battery in the car. it isnt recommended and if you can replace it so that each battery in the car used the same technology, you should. but I have not had a battery die, yet, because it was in a mixed battery bank.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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idk but u can get a 220 amp ho alt off ebay for like 160

hahahahahahahaha dont even think about it. you'll get literally 0 idle output, so at red lights you'll be sitting at 12.6 or lower. and there will be so much heat in that stock casing that it will more than likely fail in a few months.

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So should i get a h/o first I cant get both as of now. What would be more important to get less of a voltage drop. I drop down to around 11.5 when i turn it up.

an alt would be the better item to get.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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So you're saying him running 1500 watts with stock battery, with a 130 amps alt.. All he needs is another battery? or upgrade stock battery too?

wooohoo!

-Acura RL 2005. Blue.

-Stinger Expert Roadkill..Trunk only

-(2) Skar VVX-12's D4 coils

-Dual slot ported to the left custom box tuned @ 32hz

-Audioque 1200D amplifier

A tribe called quest... ftw

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