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Posted

Ok, I have a few things that need some clarification if you dont mind :peepwall::ughdunno:

I will be installing 2 runs of 1/0 from my alt to the battery in my trunk for grounds. I was told because of room isses inside the car to run it under the car. Any good suggestions or tips on doing so? things to look out for?

Another thing is I see alot of debating on those hydraulic 8 ton crimpers on here. I am capable of soldering but I plan on getting some copper lugs to run these new wires. I used Knu's ring terminals on the rest of my BIG 3 but they are a silver material on the inside and I would like to start using copper. Will i lose or gain anything by crimping the lugs on? Hydraulic crimping just seems so much easier that taking 10 mins to solder.

And if I do go with the copper lugs, how do I stop them from corroding, turning green and oxidizing?

Thanks

Posted

As far as protecting and running the wiring under the vehicle, I've seen builds that use PVC pipe to house the wires and bolt it to the chassis. Seals out the elements and looks clean if you get the black PVC pipe. For the tarnishing problem, I would try using the brass/copper cleaner that's used on guns. Me personally though I just polished my copper parts up the best I could and sprayed a thin layer of clear coat on them but not where the actual connections are so I still get great current flow with minimal resistance. Hope my 2 cents helps :)

HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X791

Fronts: Image Dynamics CTX65CS

Rears: Image Dynamics CTX69

Subs: 2, 12" Boston Acoustics G5 w/ GTR passive radiators

4-channel amp: MB Quart ONX4.125

Sub amp: Kicker ZX750.1 ('07 model, 926 watts RMS @ 2ohms rated)

1/0 awg Rockford Fosgate & KnuKonceptz wiring all around

XS Power D5100R main battery

Coming soon: Mechman 220 amp alternator & Sundown Audio 125.4

Posted

As far as protecting and running the wiring under the vehicle, I've seen builds that use PVC pipe to house the wires and bolt it to the chassis. Seals out the elements and looks clean if you get the black PVC pipe. For the tarnishing problem, I would try using the brass/copper cleaner that's used on guns. Me personally though I just polished my copper parts up the best I could and sprayed a thin layer of clear coat on them but not where the actual connections are so I still get great current flow with minimal resistance. Hope my 2 cents helps :)

I thought about pvc or abs but I was concerned with water getting down inside of the pvc and having nowhere to go? freezing making a big mess Also considering split looming.

Posted

You can drill small holes every foot or two but I wouldn't worry about it unless u put upward elbows at each end. That's the only way I can see water getting trapped in the pvc another option if you have access to sheet metal brake is to bend up a piece of thin sheet metal and screw it to the frame

Posted

Run the piping high enough into your engine bay to where water won't get in and you could seal the openings with silicone. That and might drill some small holes on the bottom of the piping for drainage, just big enough for moisture to come out of. But if you seal the openings to the pipe up good then you shouldn't have to drill at all making it completely weather proof :) Also, the copper lugs you are talking about with "silver" material on the inside is more than likely just the tinning procedure they did to reduce corrosion. Tinning is simple melting some solder on a wire or connector to prevent corrosion. So really it's there for the better. Crimping, if done properly, will be just as strong as soldering but with less resistance as soldering actually adds a small amount of resistance to the wiring but it's so small that it's of no concern. So crimp or solder, which ever is cheaper and easier for you. But no matter how you do the connections I recommend putting heatshrink on them for good measure. Plus it gives your work a more "professional" look lol

HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X791

Fronts: Image Dynamics CTX65CS

Rears: Image Dynamics CTX69

Subs: 2, 12" Boston Acoustics G5 w/ GTR passive radiators

4-channel amp: MB Quart ONX4.125

Sub amp: Kicker ZX750.1 ('07 model, 926 watts RMS @ 2ohms rated)

1/0 awg Rockford Fosgate & KnuKonceptz wiring all around

XS Power D5100R main battery

Coming soon: Mechman 220 amp alternator & Sundown Audio 125.4

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