Amart88 Posted April 13, 2012 Report Posted April 13, 2012 Ok, I have a few things that need some clarification if you dont mind I will be installing 2 runs of 1/0 from my alt to the battery in my trunk for grounds. I was told because of room isses inside the car to run it under the car. Any good suggestions or tips on doing so? things to look out for? Another thing is I see alot of debating on those hydraulic 8 ton crimpers on here. I am capable of soldering but I plan on getting some copper lugs to run these new wires. I used Knu's ring terminals on the rest of my BIG 3 but they are a silver material on the inside and I would like to start using copper. Will i lose or gain anything by crimping the lugs on? Hydraulic crimping just seems so much easier that taking 10 mins to solder. And if I do go with the copper lugs, how do I stop them from corroding, turning green and oxidizing? Thanks My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled.
IdleSilence2580 Posted April 13, 2012 Report Posted April 13, 2012 As far as protecting and running the wiring under the vehicle, I've seen builds that use PVC pipe to house the wires and bolt it to the chassis. Seals out the elements and looks clean if you get the black PVC pipe. For the tarnishing problem, I would try using the brass/copper cleaner that's used on guns. Me personally though I just polished my copper parts up the best I could and sprayed a thin layer of clear coat on them but not where the actual connections are so I still get great current flow with minimal resistance. Hope my 2 cents helps HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X791 Fronts: Image Dynamics CTX65CS Rears: Image Dynamics CTX69 Subs: 2, 12" Boston Acoustics G5 w/ GTR passive radiators 4-channel amp: MB Quart ONX4.125 Sub amp: Kicker ZX750.1 ('07 model, 926 watts RMS @ 2ohms rated) 1/0 awg Rockford Fosgate & KnuKonceptz wiring all around XS Power D5100R main battery Coming soon: Mechman 220 amp alternator & Sundown Audio 125.4
Amart88 Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Posted April 13, 2012 As far as protecting and running the wiring under the vehicle, I've seen builds that use PVC pipe to house the wires and bolt it to the chassis. Seals out the elements and looks clean if you get the black PVC pipe. For the tarnishing problem, I would try using the brass/copper cleaner that's used on guns. Me personally though I just polished my copper parts up the best I could and sprayed a thin layer of clear coat on them but not where the actual connections are so I still get great current flow with minimal resistance. Hope my 2 cents helps I thought about pvc or abs but I was concerned with water getting down inside of the pvc and having nowhere to go? freezing making a big mess Also considering split looming. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled.
jrchevy87 Posted April 13, 2012 Report Posted April 13, 2012 You can drill small holes every foot or two but I wouldn't worry about it unless u put upward elbows at each end. That's the only way I can see water getting trapped in the pvc another option if you have access to sheet metal brake is to bend up a piece of thin sheet metal and screw it to the frame Jeep Wrangler TJ Hardtop Build
IdleSilence2580 Posted April 13, 2012 Report Posted April 13, 2012 Run the piping high enough into your engine bay to where water won't get in and you could seal the openings with silicone. That and might drill some small holes on the bottom of the piping for drainage, just big enough for moisture to come out of. But if you seal the openings to the pipe up good then you shouldn't have to drill at all making it completely weather proof Also, the copper lugs you are talking about with "silver" material on the inside is more than likely just the tinning procedure they did to reduce corrosion. Tinning is simple melting some solder on a wire or connector to prevent corrosion. So really it's there for the better. Crimping, if done properly, will be just as strong as soldering but with less resistance as soldering actually adds a small amount of resistance to the wiring but it's so small that it's of no concern. So crimp or solder, which ever is cheaper and easier for you. But no matter how you do the connections I recommend putting heatshrink on them for good measure. Plus it gives your work a more "professional" look lol HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X791 Fronts: Image Dynamics CTX65CS Rears: Image Dynamics CTX69 Subs: 2, 12" Boston Acoustics G5 w/ GTR passive radiators 4-channel amp: MB Quart ONX4.125 Sub amp: Kicker ZX750.1 ('07 model, 926 watts RMS @ 2ohms rated) 1/0 awg Rockford Fosgate & KnuKonceptz wiring all around XS Power D5100R main battery Coming soon: Mechman 220 amp alternator & Sundown Audio 125.4
Amart88 Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Posted April 13, 2012 Yep, ok thanks. Also I might get the tinned copper lugs to be safe and the ones from Knu were gold plated but the actual material was a silver colour not copper.. Kind of annoyed me. Thanks for the replys. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled.
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