IdleSilence2580

I'm sorry but I'm confused. Wouldn't the insulation keep the heat in more so the battery will get even hotter? And it can't breathe as well with all that stuff around it it seems.

I've heard lots of people say Norton slows their computers down but I've been using it for the past 7 years and it's never slowed my computers down. Never had a problem with viruses or the like either as every time I do get something it's always been, well, from porn sites and it catches the threat and gets rid of it. But like I said, Kaspersky is the way to go now. Just do some searches on the best programs available now and choose for yourself as everyone will have a different opinion, just like car stereos

Get Kaspersky. Very good program and if I didn't already have Norton Internet Security 2012 I would buy it. I've never had any problems with Norton but I just want to try something new. I don't recommend free anti-virus programs though, seen too many of my friends that took that route and ended up paying for it eventually.

So that the alternator can charge the battery. That's the simplest answer.

Knu OFC. I have it and love it. Looks good, very flexible, high strand count, and good price. Please, don't get CCA.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to be installing my Stinger volt meter in a couple of days and glad I saw this. But how big of a fuse should I use? I saw a 3 amp in that pic so would a 5 amp I have work fine?

My Image Dynamics CTX6.5CS's I have sound amazing! $160 from several sites and can handle 125 watts RMS no problem. I've heard some other owners say they run 150 to em with no problems either so they might be a little power hungry for some but it's not that hard to power them. I use to run Polks as well and although they sounded great and nothing was wrong with them, I just wanted to try something different with this build. But what type of amp will you be using and what type of vehicle?

Know how ya feel man. Been working on my new box for about two months now and I'm just now going to get it completely done this weekend! It's cost me a lot more than I thought it would but bills come first. Just be patient man, I know it sucks but take your time and do it right and it will be worth it. And kinda like Smoove said don't be changing the setup all the time. Get a plan and go with it. BTW, this is the first box I've Herculined and it looks AMAZING!!! (boasting cause I've always wanted a box like this lol)

If you are determined to keep your rear fill (like I am) then you can try and fiberglassing the rear deck bottom making it completely sealed from the trunk then put some sound dampener on top of that. Just make sure you use a few layers of mat to make it strong. I've been thinking about doing this to my car since I still want my rear fill but don't want them to get ruined by my subs.

Damn bro, that's just sad. But I know how ya feel kind of. Had my first system stolen out of my car when it was parked in my freakin driveway! I can't stand thieves but karma is a bitch. The guy that broke into my ride got caught eventually after breaking into 33 other cars in my area and finally admitting to it all. But I was still out $900 (decent first system). Dark tinted windows, headunit hidden, and tell my passengers to put everything out of site preferably in the trunk now. Hope you can find a cheap replacement window man! And of course, stop all credit cards and shit that were stolen lol

Shit, I would buy the T600-4 no problem but I just got another bill due :/ Oh well, some other lucky bastard will get it! Sucks I gotta let this deal slip away...

Steve, your work is amazing like always and always leaves me in aww. I've learned a lot from you and learning even more ideas with this build. Keep up the god-like work man!!!

You have the birthsheets that came with them? If so, you mind posting the numbers? I know the T600-4 does well over rated power but just curious as to what these particular amps say they push out.

Thanks!

Hey, just wondering what size bolt I need for the bolt terminals on top of a D5100R? I haven't ordered it yet but wanted to go ahead and make my buss bars for it and need to know the size and threading for when I tap and die them. I want to have 5" copper buss bars on both positive and negative terminals with 5 holes on each for connecting wires to and would like to use the same type of bolts on all holes that the terminals use. Does XS Power even include bolts for the terminals in the box or can I just go to Autozone to get some? I've read somewhere that the batts use M6 bolts. Is this true? Any help appreciated!