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I got quoted over $1000 for a Compustar Alarm install? Is that too expensive?


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Soldering is a bish.............. t-taps have always worked for me...I grab them up high so you can't just reach under and unplug wires....

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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Is this a t tap install, a strip and wrap install, or a solder install? The way the installer does their wiring is something you defiantly want to look into b4 having an alarm done. T taps are a headache and cause a lot of problems later on down the road due to poor connections.

Yes, he used T-taps and a hundred or so zipties.

For what's listed I would not be happy with a two day install. Sounds to me like someone overbooked

Yeah, they are currently understaffed and only have 2 total installers. They did tell me they were busy and when I came in they were working on another car. Personally, I think I have too much patience.

So an update on my Alarm install, according to him everything is finished except the tilt sensor is currently not working properly and he is going to try and contact Compustar to try and get a new remote or something. I forgot the details on this one, but I went outside to my car and tried rocking my car and no alarm went off and it doesn't even send a signal to my remote for the alarm. I'll have to email him again for the details.

Also, I'm not sure how the glass break works is there a way to test this without breaking the glass?

This alarm doesn't seem as sensitive compared to my old Clifford XL1000 because I tried to knock on the side of my car and the alarm would not go off. What kind of sensor is needed for this feature? If I remember correctly, my installer didn't do anything regarding the doors (does it need a sensor in between each door or something?) It would be nice if my alarm sets off a warning chirp when someone opens their door and bumps mine.

One other minor issue I'll have him fix is my Seatbelt guy won't go away even when I put on my seatbelt.

I've also noticed that he never disconnected the battery when working on the install. I guess it's not as important with alarm install (I'm curious)? Probably left it connected for probing because I saw a power probe.

By the way, I don't have window roll up option, trunk pop (requires a motor to do it), and right now only my side signal lights blink. I'm going to see if he can have it so my beam blinks when the alarm goes off.

My final price came down to $990.00 because my car didn't need the bypass module. I also had him drill me 4x holes + grommet (non water proof ones) for when I do my 4x runs. He charged $28.50 labor fee for that one but it's fine because the unibit I had to get would cost around the same price.

I saw a DC Power ALT 270A in one of the trucks they were working on (the alt was huge!). Oh man. I need to find out the ETA on the one for my Camry.

DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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doesn't seem ridiculous to me at all.

why the big problem with the shop only having 2 installers? Shouldn't matter if they have 2 or 50 installers as long as your stuff is done correctly.

T-Tap fails are usually the installer not the ttap. all the ttap fails i have seen is because they werent crimped totally down. Same kinda fail can happen from a bad solder joint.

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One other thing I'm kinda skeptical about are the Sirens, This install has 'backup batteries' but only for the remote communication and not the siren it self. If the thief cuts the wire of the sirens, it would just stop. That's why I'm thinking about buying a better siren that has a built in battery that would keep alarm if tampered with, The only problem is that sonicelectronix has been out of stock on that clifford one that I wanted.

Hmm. Should I get Shock Sensors and Proximity Sensors installed to this?

DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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realistically. what you want as far as features is not overpriced in my opinion. most people can get an alarm from us with basic 2 way shock sensor and door triggers for about 4-600 installed depending on the brain unit. looking at the quote as i stated before its not like they are screwing you but they can deff go lower than that. as far as the number of experienced installers there, that says nothing about the shop. we have 2 main installers and together they have close to 60 years experience

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T Taps = Best buy type install. Bad news

every one always brings up t-taps and how bad they are but i have been installing remote starts and car alarms and intoxalocks and stereo equipment as a manager at a custom car shop for over 5 years and have NEVER had a car come back to me because of a problem caused by t-taps im sure if u dont know what your doing you could mess up with them but if you know what you are doing there just as reliable as solder.

I'm sorry if I see a t tap I don't think pro caliber work

And thats a 6hour install soldering.

Soldering is a bish.............. t-taps have always worked for me...I grab them up high so you can't just reach under and unplug wires....

I never use t taps I have seen them go wrong to many times when I have to fix other people work

with all this being said. its sad that so many people say T-taps are best buys best friend. for a company that MAKES every installer they have get MECP certified you would think they learned the lesson of soldering. we try and solder every alarm we do and they only take us about 2-3 hours to knock out

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One other thing I'm kinda skeptical about are the Sirens, This install has 'backup batteries' but only for the remote communication and not the siren it self. If the thief cuts the wire of the sirens, it would just stop. That's why I'm thinking about buying a better siren that has a built in battery that would keep alarm if tampered with, The only problem is that sonicelectronix has been out of stock on that clifford one that I wanted.

Hmm. Should I get Shock Sensors and Proximity Sensors installed to this?

why not get horn honk if your so worried about sirens

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  • 2 weeks later...

realistically. what you want as far as features is not overpriced in my opinion. most people can get an alarm from us with basic 2 way shock sensor and door triggers for about 4-600 installed depending on the brain unit. looking at the quote as i stated before its not like they are screwing you but they can deff go lower than that. as far as the number of experienced installers there, that says nothing about the shop. we have 2 main installers and together they have close to 60 years experience

DRC did my alarm the clifford 520.4 and retails over 1000 with remote start. Its a ton of fucking work to install an alarm and I wouldnt recommend doing it yourself with out the proper tools and the wiring diagram of your whole car. Don't want to mess up something

Scion tC SQ Build
iPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily driven
Ford Explorer C Pillar Wall Build

Just a cheap car to destroy with bass :D

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