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2007 Yukon Lights Dimming Almost off (Batteries & Alternator 100%)


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Posted

In my 2007 Yukon I have a system with around 1500-1800 rms.

I have the big 3 and a double agm battery setup under the hood done.

Never had too much dimming but did have slight dimming just always blamed it on my vehicles voltage regulator which most of the time has my alternator charging as low as 12 volts sometimes so my batteries are never really too full.

But the dimming was not really too much of a problem until now...

My dimming has now become so bad that even when i hold my power windows up my lights almost shut off and my amps stop making sound. My voltage meter on my amps playing now show as low as 9 volts right before my amps cut off.

I had my two batteries tested today both were good on a load tester individually. My alternator was not really tested but im assuming it works since both of my batteries are completely charged.

This started about two weeks ago and thought ill stop playing until the batteries charge but all along my batteries were ok.

Im lost now.

Any help?

1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31

Posted

What alt? are you running it in the stock position?

These newer gm trucks have a RVC system. (Regulated voltage control)

it will only charge at a full 14v when the truck tells it it needs too. it has several diffrent "charge modes"

heres a write up on the RVC

http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

Posted

Yes its the stock 160 amp alternator it never gave me a problem in the 3 years ive had it running the same 1800 rms system.

In the beggining before i joined smd and didnt have a clue on car audio (3 years ago), my system was run with two batteries where one was almost dead and the other was good but i never really paid attention until i found out the battery was dead too late (an amp died on me from low voltage).

I found out about the battery when i switched out my off brand fake 4 gauge (more like 6 or 8) to 0 gauge.

So after studying more about car audio here my system was running for the past two years well, now i cant even play at 75% tilt or else lights dim so bad and my voltage goes so low that im scared i might hurt my amps who have served me more than two years each.

1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31

Posted

the best way to get around the RVC system is to run a dual alt kit and run a seperate H/O alt and seperate Batt(s) for the system

thats how im running in my 2007 Tahoe

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

Posted

I know about the RVC but i didnt really have much of a problem running the 1500rms or so i was running until now when i cant even lift my windows without it dimming even with the sound system not playing.

If there are wires loose they wouldnt be at the back with my amps right, it has to be under the hood somewhere right? Since my windows button dimming my lights wont have anything to do with my amps right?

1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt

Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31

Posted

i'm in the same boat as teamace24. i just upgraded my big 3 in my 2008 chevy impala. my lights dimmed before but after the upgrade they really dim bad now. all connections are good and grounded. i have cheap dB link 4 guage wire that i'm going to upgrade but i don't think that will help a whole lot. i thought upgrading the big 3 would help with voltage drop but it seems worse now. i also have the battery saver warning coming on all the time now. any help? would putting a second battery in the trunk help?

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