skittlesRgood Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 connecting to speaker terminals, just like a speaker, you need resistance. just putting in a bunch of LEDs will have very little resistance and it would be like running your 1ohm amp at .1ohm. (just an example) Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 (edited) connecting to speaker terminals, just like a speaker, you need resistance. just putting in a bunch of LEDs will have very little resistance and it would be like running your 1ohm amp at .1ohm. (just an example) But I'm not going to connect my led's straight to the amp, I will be using the controller, and a cheapy amp, I actually found a smaller cheaper amp here at amazon http://www.amazon.co...id=4T54WT4KBKR0 and I will cut the microphone end from the wires, and take those wires and connect them to the speaker output on the amplifier, I can tune the amplifier gains to be best used with the controller, and possibly add a knob for better control of it. But should the microphone wire have too low of a resistance, I can add a resistor in between the positive wire, correct? Edited April 19, 2012 by Eduardo Andrade Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 might work. get an amp with a lowpass filter so you can make sure the lights only blink to low frequencies. obviously you dont care if you mess up the amp so give it a shot. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 So why not just use the mic for input? An amp boosts voltage and current so it's overkill for a buffer between your HU and LED controller. How about a line driver that just boosts voltage and would have its own "volume" knob? Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 That microphone is like you say, a speaker. Just opposite, instead of turning electrical energy into acoustical energy, it turns acoustical energy into electrical energy. But, the amount of electrical energy is ity-bity. That's a scientific term by the way, it means small.(probably millivolts) You will be throwin' way way too much energy into that controller using your amps speaker outputs. A "safer" method, and i really don't approve of this, is to use an extra set of line-outs hooked to it. That should be more than enough and you will probably still need a resistor. Maybe use the amps line out if it has it. -=-=-=-=-=-=-= This part is only applies to daydreamers and Chuck Testa Something that could more reliable but stupidly expensive is to find an o-scope and with some McGyvering use it to control the lights, since it will be using a waveforrm of the electrical signal sent to the amp instead of just a raw signal. But that would just be stupid Quote Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 So why not just use the mic for input? An amp boosts voltage and current so it's overkill for a buffer between your HU and LED controller. How about a line driver that just boosts voltage and would have its own "volume" knob? The mic IS what I will be using for input, what I'm saying is I will seperate the mic from the wires (cut the mic off) and I'm pretty sure what's left will be like speaker wire, right? I just cut a mic in half and there was two cables. But I will take those two cables and put them where the subs would go on an amplifier, but on their own amplifier. Even though the ev2.200 has selectable voltage and doesn't require a lot of power, the line driver is a great idea!I found this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html only thing is, I'm confused on what those red and black cables are, I'm guessing they're power/ground cables. I'm having a hard time finding a line driver that accepts speaker wire for output and the only next cheap thing is to go with the amplifier I posted earlier. Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 (edited) That microphone is like you say, a speaker. Just opposite, instead of turning electrical energy into acoustical energy, it turns acoustical energy into electrical energy. But, the amount of electrical energy is ity-bity. That's a scientific term by the way, it means small.(probably millivolts) You will be throwin' way way too much energy into that controller using your amps speaker outputs. A "safer" method, and i really don't approve of this, is to use an extra set of line-outs hooked to it. That should be more than enough and you will probably still need a resistor. Maybe use the amps line out if it has it. -=-=-=-=-=-=-= This part is only applies to daydreamers and Chuck Testa Something that could more reliable but stupidly expensive is to find an o-scope and with some McGyvering use it to control the lights, since it will be using a waveforrm of the electrical signal sent to the amp instead of just a raw signal. But that would just be stupid So you mean strip an rca and wire the microphone input to it and connect the other end of the rca to the amplifiers output? That's what I was asking earlier, though I don't think I would want to do that, that would be the last thing I do. Does the input sensitivity have to match the first amplifiers? The EV2.200 has a selectable switch and one of the options is 100mV, is that low enough? Edited April 20, 2012 by Eduardo Andrade Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 I'm saying use "line out" not" Speaker Out" You hook that thing to your amps speaker terminal and it will die. you should plug an rca into a line out of your amp if it has it, or split (y adapter) off one going to your amp already and then strip the other end and hook to where the mic was. All in all its a bad idea all the way around if you arent using the microphone imho. Quote Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 So why not just use the mic for input? An amp boosts voltage and current so it's overkill for a buffer between your HU and LED controller. How about a line driver that just boosts voltage and would have its own "volume" knob? The mic IS what I will be using for input, what I'm saying is I will seperate the mic from the wires (cut the mic off) and I'm pretty sure what's left will be like speaker wire, right? I just cut a mic in half and there was two cables. But I will take those two cables and put them where the subs would go on an amplifier, but on their own amplifier. Even though the ev2.200 has selectable voltage and doesn't require a lot of power, the line driver is a great idea!I found this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html only thing is, I'm confused on what those red and black cables are, I'm guessing they're power/ground cables. I'm having a hard time finding a line driver that accepts speaker wire for output and the only next cheap thing is to go with the amplifier I posted earlier. No I meant actually use the mic as your input, as the controller was designed. Just let your speakers drive the microphone rather than risk overdriving the controller with a hardwired experiment. A line driver boosts voltage so they'll only have RCAs. Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Andrade Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 I'm saying use "line out" not" Speaker Out" You hook that thing to your amps speaker terminal and it will die. you should plug an rca into a line out of your amp if it has it, or split (y adapter) off one going to your amp already and then strip the other end and hook to where the mic was. All in all its a bad idea all the way around if you arent using the microphone imho. ok, so I would use the line driver I just showed you and strip one end of the rca's and wire it to that? and wicks, the point of this project is to have accurate lighting, I'm not going to use the mic and this is a project/experiment. I don't mind overdriving the controller, as long as all my other equipment isn't damaged. Quote Clarion CZ401 Power Acoustik LT-980/2 dbLink 8 gauge kit DXi 104 4 ohm DVC x2 Sealed Enclosure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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