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Eclosure Design


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Posted

Having trouble designing an enclosure for my 2010 honda civic ex coupe. I have two fi ssd 10"s i am looking at a box to be around 33 hz, ported. My current box that i made works well but i can tell that im not getting every little bit out of these subs. can anyone help me out?

"This is noise"

Posted

whats the rest of the specs of your box? and what are you trying to get out of them thats lacking?

Posted

Well i can do 39 wide, 15 high, i can do 31 deep but id be more comfortable around 22. Also im running a rockford t-1.5k bd-cp. its wired to 1 ohm. stock electrical with big-3, working on getting a new alternator. current box is too small and poorly tuned. that i can admit. but im looking at building a new one just having trouble getting my numbers to work. Here's the specs on my current box:

oldbox.jpg

I'm looking to get a louder box, and hopefully some more sq, i want it to be around 33 hz. this is for a daily driver.

"This is noise"

Posted

I think it's your port length, that is messing you up. Think of port length being the depth, how far inside the box you want the port length to be.

You have 31 inches when your box is only 17 inches in depth.

If your seats can fold down, do side by side subs and port all firing forward with the port on driver side of box. So your box will be 39 wide, 15 inches tall, and depth being 22 inches (going towards back of car).

On the front of the box, you have 17.5 Inches left of width space, 13.5 inches for height, and the depth can go up to 21 inches for your port (tuning size can vary)

The Port is tuned for 33.9hz- 13.5in height x 5 in wide x 16.25in depth (if you need lower frequency, make port depth longer)

Here's port and subs firing forward - (I don't have access to PC (i'm on mac) so I used RE Audio's online calculator, so it may be some small differences since it doesn't take into account your specific subwoofer specs. )

7250756978_c962fc34db_b.jpg

Bass Music Producer • Photographer • Graphic Designer

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Deep Sector Boom...

Posted

I think it's your port length, that is messing you up. Think of port length being the depth, how far inside the box you want the port length to be.

You have 31 inches when your box is only 17 inches in depth.

If your seats can fold down, do side by side subs and port all firing forward with the port on driver side of box. So your box will be 39 wide, 15 inches tall, and depth being 22 inches (going towards back of car).

On the front of the box, you have 17.5 Inches left of width space, 13.5 inches for height, and the depth can go up to 21 inches for your port (tuning size can vary)

The Port is tuned for 33.9hz- 13.5in height x 5 in wide x 16.25in depth (if you need lower frequency, make port depth longer)

Here's port and subs firing forward - (I don't have access to PC (i'm on mac) so I used RE Audio's online calculator, so it may be some small differences since it doesn't take into account your specific subwoofer specs. )

7250756978_c962fc34db_b.jpg

Dude you put in 39" for his box length, and 5 inches for his port width!?!?! He doesn't have 39 inches in width to play with, only 31". OP, the box you CURRENTLY have in your ride is built like the screen shot of Torres you posted? can we get some actual pics of this box to see what is going on? Tuned to 31 is a bit low for a daily driver, 33-35 would be more ideal.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Posted

Here is a pic of the box i currently have. It is the one that matches the numbers i currently have. The thing i know I messed up on is the port on along the rear wall. I know it should have been 1" instead of 2". But the length is right because it is a l-port design so port wraps around to the back but I may be miss taken. Any way thanks for all the help.

boxpic.jpg"

"This is noise"

Posted

The numbers you've entered are for an L-port on one side of the box(3 port common walls). For a centered port, you would need to choose 2 common walls. Also, It would only need to be 1", not .75" on that back wall. You could just change the design and go with an L-port, and I'd bet the results would be better than what you have now.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Posted

The numbers you've entered are for an L-port on one side of the box(3 port common walls). For a centered port, you would need to choose 2 common walls. Also, It would only need to be 1", not .75" on that back wall. You could just change the design and go with an L-port, and I'd bet the results would be better than what you have now.

okay, should i change anything in my design? keep the numbers and do it as an l port or what? now i may sound like an idiot here, but wouldn't there be a air movent issue with two side-by-side subs in an l port? also i have been working to design an l port but hav had trouble with it, what would be your suggestions

"This is noise"

Posted

Well i can do 39 wide, 15 high, i can do 31 deep but id be more comfortable around 22.

This is what the OP posted, so I'm thinking that when he meant wide, he meant from driver side to passenger side, when facing the front of the car.

Bass Music Producer • Photographer • Graphic Designer

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Deep Sector Boom...

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