Kyblack76 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Screw that DD1... its a joke.... but, ill buy it from you.........???... ill pay for shipping bro.. (those that know us, that could be 6 ... so..) "Average live is about 2 months before the woofers decide to blow. " Hate it when that happens.. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny248 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 well maybe you are sending too much powaaaa or your box is terrible! what kind of box, did you build a new box for each sub!? Two different vehicles. 10's and 12's in different enclosures lol -= J-dUb =- ....no 12 step program can cure my car audio addiction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny248 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 have you thought about maybe the dd1 WAS working properly and the amp is just bad in general if the distortion light was on always? you can easily test this by hooking the dd1 up to the back of your headunit and testing for clipping there, just to make sure that the light doesn't always stay on. and if you hook it up to the amp after and it just stays on, the amp is junk. I was using it on a different vehicle this past weekend, and in the middle of that, the DD-1 distortion light was on. I've tested it with 4 different head units, and 5 different amps. It is def a DD-1 problem. -= J-dUb =- ....no 12 step program can cure my car audio addiction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 damn dude dont know what to tell yah then! maybe get a different amp lol probably could have gotten a new amp instead of buying 5 woofers lol 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 have you thought about maybe the dd1 WAS working properly and the amp is just bad in general if the distortion light was on always? you can easily test this by hooking the dd1 up to the back of your headunit and testing for clipping there, just to make sure that the light doesn't always stay on. and if you hook it up to the amp after and it just stays on, the amp is junk. I was using it on a different vehicle this past weekend, and in the middle of that, the DD-1 distortion light was on. I've tested it with 4 different head units, and 5 different amps. It is def a DD-1 problem. i gotcha man. once you get the replacement, definitely test it on the headunit first to see if its a good replacement, then test it on the amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 edit: nevermind ninja'd like a mother..... AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 damn dude dont know what to tell yah then! maybe get a different amp lol probably could have gotten a new amp instead of buying 5 woofers lol lol x2. i would honestly get rid of that p.o.s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Ocaver Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Johnny, youn have one or more of four problems- 1. person operating the system is driving a clipped signal to the amp = sub gets burned 2. amp is crap and is being driven past it's ability to reproduce the clean signal it is getting=output is clipped=sub gets burnt 3. voltage and/or current at the amp is below operating parameters= Clipping=sub gets burnt 4. enclosure is grossly inadequate - person is driving the system beyond it's operating parameters= sub gets burnt edit- 5. ambient temperature is WAY too high=normal operation of the amp/sub combo simply pushes the sub past the thermal tolerances *** had this happen in a system with everything in the trunk, even witrh fans it smoked a weak sub*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny248 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 http://www.adelcom.net/DieselAudio-NS-1000-Page.htm Here is a link to this beauty... -= J-dUb =- ....no 12 step program can cure my car audio addiction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny248 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Johnny, youn have one or more of four problems- 1. person operating the system is driving a clipped signal to the amp= sub gets burned 2. amp is crap and is being driven past it's ability to reproduce the clean signal it is getting=output is clipped=sub gets burnt 3. voltage and/or current at the amp is below operating parameters= Clipping=sub gets burnt 4. enclosure is grossly inadequate - person is driving the system beyond it's operating parameters= sub gets burnt Johnny, youn have one or more of four problems- 1. person operating the system is driving a clipped signal to the amp= sub gets burned 2. amp is crap and is being driven past it's ability to reproduce the clean signal it is getting=output is clipped=sub gets burnt 3. voltage and/or current at the amp is below operating parameters= Clipping=sub gets burnt 4. enclosure is grossly inadequate - person is driving the system beyond it's operating parameters= sub gets burnt I will check voltage drop and ground resistance at the amplifier. I'm about to toss this thing. I should have just bought another amp several woofers ago, but with shelves full of speakers I just do the quick easy thing and stick something else in there lol. -= J-dUb =- ....no 12 step program can cure my car audio addiction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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