BassBarbies Ford Edge Build Sundown,Shok, Project DB, Pioneer

[BassBarbie]

Also bought an expensive ass router bit and the thing is HUGE too big to even fit my router lol

[BassBarbie]

standard 3/8s round over

[BassBarbie]

New round over for my new port.

[rogue]

Also bought an expensive ass router bit and the thing is HUGE too big to even fit my router lol

do you mean the shank being 1/2 " or the size of the bit not clearing the base plate?

You will want to run a bit this large on a table anyway so if you are talking about the plate then just take it off and mount your router under a table. It wont take much effort to build a table decent enough for this task and will be far safer. Being that its such a large bit, I would also make multiple passes slowly rasing the bit higher until you get the full radius cut into the port opening. Routers can be dangerous tools.

[fritosaregood]

Ive been there, I had to buy a new router and build a base and table for it just to use that one roundover bit.

[Ninja_v1.0]

Sometimes the older the better. I was told older amps are built better

I disagree, these new amps out now are way over built compared to amps back in the day, there is no comparison watt per dollar is incredible also,

10 years ago you paid $1.00 per watt, for a quality amp, that still does not have the quality guts of these crescendo, dc, aq, dd, sundown, amps have, they are in a whole different level of quality compared to the amps ive spent $1,000 -$2,000 on back in the day.

i disagree. I will put my old orion 2500d against ANYTHING you want to run. We can wire down as low as .17 for burps or .35 for daily and drop voltage as low as 7v ( yes SEVEN volts) and we will see which amp last the longest

[BassBarbie]

Also bought an expensive ass router bit and the thing is HUGE too big to even fit my router lol

do you mean the shank being 1/2 " or the size of the bit not clearing the base plate?

You will want to run a bit this large on a table anyway so if you are talking about the plate then just take it off and mount your router under a table. It wont take much effort to build a table decent enough for this task and will be far safer. Being that its such a large bit, I would also make multiple passes slowly rasing the bit higher until you get the full radius cut into the port opening. Routers can be dangerous tools.

Thanks for the advice, the router bit wont clear the base of my router. and i have a plung router that the base plate is not removable so im going to have to go buy one that is. How did you build your table to hold the router?

[rogue]

I have made several that have all been more or less temporary tables until I get time to dedicate to making a real nice one with a lift and dust collection and all.

Basically you just want a nice flat surface that is smooth. I have used 1/2" melamine type shelving that i had just laying around as well as plain old MDF. When you take the base plate off the router you can use it as a template for where the screws will go to hold it to your table top to the router. Then mark and drill out the holes for the screws and make sure to countersink so the screws dont scruff up your work. find the center point and cut out an opening a tad bigger than the router bit you are using. Attach the router base under the table with the screws. Then just make sure that table top is secured to something that is not going to move on you while you are feeding the work to the bit.

Thats a really basic form of a router table but it should do the trick. Remember the thickness of the table top will reduce the depth at which the router can plunge so dont go too thick on it or you may not be able to use the full radius of the bit even when the router is plunged at max depth. You also want to have a table top that is big enough to hold the work you are pushing thru without you having to try and balance it as you push the work into the bit.

[BassBarbie]

I have made several that have all been more or less temporary tables until I get time to dedicate to making a real nice one with a lift and dust collection and all.

Basically you just want a nice flat surface that is smooth. I have used 1/2" melamine type shelving that i had just laying around as well as plain old MDF. When you take the base plate off the router you can use it as a template for where the screws will go to hold it to your table top to the router. Then mark and drill out the holes for the screws and make sure to countersink so the screws dont scruff up your work. find the center point and cut out an opening a tad bigger than the router bit you are using. Attach the router base under the table with the screws. Then just make sure that table top is secured to something that is not going to move on you while you are feeding the work to the bit.

Thats a really basic form of a router table but it should do the trick. Remember the thickness of the table top will reduce the depth at which the router can plunge so dont go too thick on it or you may not be able to use the full radius of the bit even when the router is plunged at max depth. You also want to have a table top that is big enough to hold the work you are pushing thru without you having to try and balance it as you push the work into the bit.

Thanks for the help im going to build a big table that will hold my router and see how it comes out i do think that 1/2 inch would be best as idk how depth my plunge router can go

[rogue]

Thanks for the help im going to build a big table that will hold my router and see how it comes out i do think that 1/2 inch would be best as idk how depth my plunge router can go

Should do fine, just brace the table underneath with 2-3" strips every so often or something to keep the table from flexing any since 1/2 isnt going to stay perfectly flat by itself. You want the surface to be flat and level.

Check out a few of these, may give you some ideas. From very basic to more complicated table designs.

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/03/toolcribcoms-ultimate-guide-to-free-router-table-plans