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Found 134 results

  1. So my builder, Aho Audio out of Oklahoma, put this together in 12hrs for me today. Huge thanks to him for sticking it out after made the long drive to him. Singer 275a D6500 under the hood 2 d3400 in the back Modified all stock spots to fit 4 Cresendo neo 6.5s and 2 ft1 tweeters. Ran out of time for the Alphard Audio tweeters so future add on down the road. 2 Crescendo 15s Sundown ns1 v1 amp 2 Sundown 50.4 for mids Box is tuned around 40hz maybe less, not sure since space was limited and had to get creative to put the box in. Kenwood HU Sky High Car Audio power wire Rockford and Soundqubed RCAs
  2. Hi there guys after a few suggestions in regards to a new build, Been out the audio game for a couple of years now. (Im from the UK), My UK based forum I used to use seems to have turned from audio to magazine based sadly. My previous build was in a Citroen C2, Consisted of: Ascendant Audio havoc 12" tuned to 33hz, B2 Quota, Focal 165v30, Genesis profile 1 etc, Now my new car is a MK1 8n Audi TT 225. I originally had thoughts of going for 2x12" setup but I think im swayed towards 2x15's. After a bit of advice on this sort of setup: Standard alternator is pushing 120ah Subs: Sundown SA-15 x2, How do these run off of 750w. I know there sweet spots like 1k-1.2k, But I can't afford the jump to 2k watt amp/battery. Enclosure: Not sure on 15's only ever built 12's, But at a guess Im thinking 7 cu/ft? Ill post in the enclosure page on help regarding this. Tuning wise, had in mind 28hz but maybe around the 31/32? Opinions? Amplifier: Sundown SAE-1500D, Any alternatives if this isn't reccomended? Battery: Bit of a newbie area to me. Ideally I'd like a big primary battery that can handle the 1500w. Question is do I buy a 12v? Or 14v? I saw the XS Power XE14-50 Which seems to be able to handle 1500w. Any other suggestions would be great. Sound deadening: Silentcoat Multilayer, Had great success with this in my previous car so I'll probably jump on that again. HU, Front Comps, Comp Amp undecided yet as I want to work around the sub setup first. Design wise, I did a quick sketchup of an idea I have. Inside of the TT looks like this:. I was thinking a sealed forward facing semi wall I guess sort of setup:. Bare In mind nothing in the sketchup drawings are to scale it's just to see my idea. By semi wall, It won't be permanent. I'll be sealing off the the edges of the "wall" with high pressure ducting foam. Will be secured to the car floor in regards to L brackets or however else I decide to do so. Bare in mind im from the UK guys, Not many suppliers out here of some of the american brands, (1 Authorised sundown dealer in the whole of uk...). Any helps appreciated Jay
  3. The purpose of this thread is to evaluate and discuss the internal resistance of various batteries and (possibly?) test methods. I’ll start this off by using the DC Load method to test some XS AGM, some K2 73Ah cells, and some K2/JYP 80Ah cells. The DC load method was used because that’s all the equipment that I had available or was able to purchase quickly and on the cheap. Here’s a link for more information on Load Test Methods. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_internal_resistance Calculation used was Rint = ((Vrest/Vload) -1) x Rload) Where Rint = internal resistance Vrest = Voltage at rest Vload = Voltage once load is applied Rload = resistance of the load resistor Now onto some pictures of the setup. If there is something amiss please chime in so we can figure it out. 1ohm load resistors (although they test out at 0.9ohm) I connected them in series on one end, and I can change the resistance by simply connecting my jumper wire differently. I have the opportunity to connect at 0.45ohm, 0.9ohm, and 1.8ohm. Here's proof of half(ish) ohm, although I didnt use this low of a resistance for data collection: So this connection would be 1.8ohm This connection would be 0.9ohm Here's the 73Ah K2 cells (not JY collaboration batteries) The day before testing, I topped off all the batteries, including the JYP's in the back and the AGMs to the right. 24 hours later, I actually took measurements. Data for the lithiums: Data for the D3400R AGM Looking forward to some comments, suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking!
  4. So... The plans have changed a little bit, no wall but two 12's now The reason for making this new thread. Old thread https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205731-my-first-audio-build/ The car Still a lot more to deaden! Btw i've used Silent Coat and STP ak04 premium So the new plan(setup) will be as following: HU: ?? don't know yet Subs: 2 Phoenix Gold Elite.12D4 Subs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T2500.1 Mids and Highs: Phoenix Gold Elite.65CS Components Mids and Highs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T400.2 Electrical: Ground Zero GZBP 12.3500X battery under the hood XS Power XE 12-110 battery in the back 180 Amp Alternator OFC 0 awg power/ground/big 3 OFC 4 awg power/ground OFC 8 awg subwoofer wire OFC 10 awg speaker wire Rockford Fosgate Fuses Rockford Fosgate Fuseholders 6x Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 10feet 2x Rockford Fosgate PEQ remote controller Some dual inputs Stinger voltmeter Some parts I'm now waiting on the 0awg and 10awg OFC wire to come thru the mail, then its all complete.. Box is finished just need to wrap it. Thanks to JOE X for the box design!! It's for 2 zv4 12's but i'm hoping it will work fine with the Elite.12's You'll be hearing from me soon, as soon as ive done some more work
  5. Installed a couple weeks ago my cpillar slide in wall For 6 ab xfl 1222s on 2 dc 5ks. 3 top on 1 dc5k @1.3 ohms and 3 bottom on another dc5k @ 1.3 ohms. Have blown the bottom middle woofer now twice. First time thing I went to hard on it being that it took months to finish and killed the coil. 2nd one was rushing to get it playing for slammology. Broke it in for 3 hours @ 40 and 30 hz on a dc5k @ 4ohns 900 something watts Went to install it the next day screwed up poked surround like a idiot. Fixed it with shoe goo Played fine all weekend till my 4th demo at slammology then that infernal slinky sub sound. What am I doing wrong? 1. this is my first wall 2. First time running 6 subs 3. First time running this kind of power and running 2 dc5k to 1 enclosure 4. Set amps with dd-1 to older 5k cause seemed to be lower of the 2 amps. Set with -5 db track 5. Gain matched both amps to the older 5k with cc-1 6.slide in wall is top L port 7. Almost seems like bottom 3 subs move more then top ones ( but not 100 percent on this ) 5 broken in subs and one new one as soon as I buy another one from ab. Please help I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this out and can't afford to keep replacing subs. Now have 5 good and 3 bad subs.
  6. Has anyone ever tried to install a DC to AC inverter into there build and use the produced AC power to supply an AGM or Lithium battery charger? Would the battery charger be able produce more of a charge to the system than the inverter would draw from the system resulting in a positive charge to the system over time?
  7. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  8. Hey guys. I have a slight problem figuring out how many or how big or both, of alternators do i need to push 9000 watts. The system I am building is a little under 8000 watts. Im trying to run my amps at the highest efficiency possible. I have decided to run at least 2 D2700 xs power batteries. But, I am not sure what size or how many alts I need to efficiently charge the batts. ANy help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Explaining amp gain

    Hi I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of 2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs 4 Alpine type R component speakers Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ? or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4 Hope some one cant help
  10. *************[Note: Since photobucket decided to nerf everyone's accounts, a lot of the pictures in this thread are gone. I intend to fix all of the posts but it will take quite a while. Photos start on page 29 currently. In the meantime all of the photos are available on Facebook by searching #projectflexington and many are on Instagram under the same hashtag. Thanks for looking and please don't be afraid to comment! ]************* So figure it is time to start a build log for my 6th order wall. Been working on it for a few weeks now. I'll start by posting the equipment I'm using for the build. Electrical: Batteries: 2 nsb170fts and 2 stinger group 31s: 3 banks of super caps: 2 singer 320amp alternators (these came with the truck, I'm currently in the process of redoing the bracket to strengthen it and add a tensioner but I'll elaborate later): 4+ spools of skyhigh 1/0, knukonceptz 4/0 ofc for alternators (will post pictures later) Terminals, marine grade ring terminals lugs, properly crimped with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink: Subs are 2 sundown x15s rev 1(will be rebuilding for level 6 18s at a later date): Sub Amp, kicker warhorse: Head unit and tweeters, Sony dsx-s210x and 4x Earthquake Screamers, 1.5" 150wrms per pair silk Dome tweeters with replaceable voice coils: Mid bass, 4x dayton audio 10" pa woofers, 300rms each: Mids are tbd, probably 2 8" midrange speakers. Lots of Baltic birch: If you enjoy, please comment!
  11. Hello all! I'm new here to the forums and I thought I'd start by posting a build thread for first build. I've been looking into audio for a very long time, but recently started looking specifically into car audio about four years ago. I built my very first box a year ago (April, 2016) after ordering my subs. Since then, I worked and saved up for my amp, batteries, and wire (other miscellaneous stuff as well) which I recently purchased this winter. I got everything in the mail a few months ago and only recently installed everything. It's been a very long work in progress (I replaced my door speakers and fabricated my A-pillars three years ago and have been saving up since then) and will continue to be improved, but I'm happy to finally share it with you all! Here are some pictures in chronological order of everything as it has come together (sorry for the poor iPhone quality): April of 2015 (As you can see, this was my very first box build. It's not very pretty and there was lots of sanding to do to make all the edges meet flush) The subs A couple of months later (February 2016) and I stripped the vehicle down to the bare interior so that I could run the wire and RCA's through the car (for my daily, I didn't want to run the wire underneath the vehicle. Looking back on how tough it was to run three runs of 1/0 AWG through the firewall, if I did it again I'd do it differently!) Interior reinstalled Under the hood Progress Heatshrunk! Batteries, bussbars, box, subs, and most of the power wire installed The (temporary) wiring setup About a year of work, and that's where I'm at! I've done a little more work to tidy things up, but for the most part, I've got everything done and ready for the amplifier to be dropped-in when it arrives. Speaking of... I ordered my BC5500 in December, but shortly after they went out of stock and you know how Crescendo restocks go... Four months later, and here I am anxiously waiting for my amp to restock and show up in the mail. In the meantime, I'm working on rebuilding my box and the floor underneath it. I'm currently very unhappy with the way the Herculiner turned out. It was my first time using the product so my lack of experience made it clump and lay unevenly over the entire box. Additionally, the box itself was my first, unexperienced build, and I've learned a lot about boxes and building them since them. The box has a 32hz tuning and I'd like to drop it lower to 30/28, so I'm going to be doing interchangeable ports (I realize that I will be changing the 3.5 cubic airspace by adjusting the port volume, but the subs will not be in a space that is any less than their minimum recommended with the largest port). I'll also be replacing the OEM trunk floor (about a 1/4" thick) with 1/2" MDF. It'll be much stronger and hold up to the flex and weight a lot better. I'm also unhappy with the battery tray and amp rack that I made (very temporary 1/4" angle iron rectangle mounted to the floor and 1/4" wood as the amp rack) so I'll be replacing those in a much more permanent fashion (I've got a few ideas in mind). In the meantime, let me know what you guys think!
  12. ordered 2 more xs d3100s from Showtime car audio going 2 have 2 batteries on each side of my port just wondering on how to properly ground the second set of batteries. My current setup Option 1 option 2 Do I ground all batteries on same frame rail or one set on each side being that this would give shorter ground path. Don't want to induce noise etc. ty for all your help
  13. I was curious if anyone had any recommendations as far as obtaining a HO Alt for my 2013 Veloster. I'm currently running stock 90 Amp with a XS D4800 up front as well. The Amp I am running now is a Rockford Prime r1200-1D (Current electrical handles well). I will soon be upgrading to a Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 at 1ohm. I originally had looked at Mechman but they don't seem to handle anything Hyundai, as far as I can tell. I found this one here: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_612/Hyundai-Veloster.htm but i'm not so sure about the brand. Perhaps contacting Singer Alts would be the better choice? Maybe just an additional battery?
  14. I'm starting a new build now, some of the old parts will be reused but I'm going for a cleaner, better sounding, smaller setup this time. The old setup was just killer on the suspension of the car and it had to go. New equipment: Kenwood DDX371 DC Audio 90.4 DC Audio 1.2k Crescendo RTS-1 tweeters Silver Flute 6.5's Fi SSD 12 knukonceptz 1/0 OFC Sky High Car Audio RCA, speaker wire, ring terminals, primary wire XS power D5100R Northstar NSB-AGM24M DC Power 180amp HP series alternator Audio Technix 60mil deadener I need to cover these sections up, I'm going to try and buy the side carpet from honda if it's not crazy expensive. Update 12/22/15 Everything is here now, I will start working on the box here soon. Box has been built, 2.3cu, 33hz tune.
  15. Trunk build. 07 Acura TSX Rv2 Singer 320 alt, charging at 14.9 Xs D3100 up front, yup, you read that right, under the hood XS D7500 (x2) in the rear. Fi 12" teams (x2) Ampere Audio TFHE (just one) Ampere Audio DSP Ampere Audio dream comp set up front, CNF PA's in the back doors 2 Ampere Audio 125.4's Ampere VIBRA flex on the skins still gathering the goods......
  16. I want to thank you for taking the time to look at my thread. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I've been saving and working for this for 4+ months. Here so I go. Mids & Highs: x2 NVX Audio X-Series 6.5s 2 way component speaker sets. To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q4-90 Low: x2 Soundqubed HDC3 10 To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 HO Alt: Js Ultimate Alts 240a Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Battery: XS Power D6500 Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil I have three boxed of this stuff but installed some:
  17. I have a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5S and I know I going to need more power. Let's just say for the sake of argument that an upgraded alternator is not an option because my vehicle is new. So I ordered up a XS Power D3400R from DC and I have an old XS Power D3400 from my 2009 Altima that wouldn't fit so I'm going to put it in the trunk. Big 3 will be done so here's the question. How can I get more voltage stability with what I have and will my factory alternator be able to keep a charge on those batteries or should I just run one? I'll be running RF2500bdcp, 3-T1D410, & a RFT600-4.
  18. Hi Everyone, Really need help and the recommendations/suggestions of you more experienced folks. I recently purchased a Crescendo BC5500 amp to power my (4) subs. I have them in a 4th order tuned in the high 20s. Since subs are dual 1 ohm, i currently have a 0.5 ohm load on my amp. Here is list of my equipment and a quick diagram of how i have it connected (excuse the crappy pic). Sounds great but my amps heats up FAST then goes into protect mode. Won't turn on till 30+mins after it cools down. I reached out to Crescendo and they confirmed my amp model has an internal fan (even though i can't hear or feel it) and suggested my wiring was wrong after we went back and forth on what my system consists off. List of equipment on my 98 (2) door Chevy Tahoe Front of truck(1) Yellow Top Optima (1) Iraggi Alt 240amp low idle (1) DC Power Alt 240amp rebuilt by Iraggi (2) aftermarket electric fans Rear of truck(4) 15 in. RE Audio SXX w/ PSI recones (1) Crescendo Amp BC5500d (1) Boss Audio amp D350.4 (mids/highs) (2) XS Power D5100 (2) XS Power D925 All +/- wiring is SHCA 0 gauge with the exception of the ones going to the Boss amp and coming from the electric fans. I know my wiring ain't ideal or perfect, but before i "re-wire" it again, i want to do it right. Any recommendations??
  19. I just got a new XS power battery for under the hood. I have seen that you should give them a full charge before installing them. Is there anyone in the Sacramento area that has a charger that would be willing to let me get a charge? I am willing to pay if need be but I just want to make sure I take care of this batt so that it will take care of me.
  20. so i have been looking around, maybe didnt look hard enough idk, but i cant seem to find out why with my setup im having a drop. 2004 Silverado Mechman 370 amp and voltage regulator with guage big 3 d3400 under hood d3100 in back Skar 2500 2 Fi Btl n2 at 1ohm So my voltage as far as i have read is ok to be set at 15v with these xs and i have had it this way for idk 2 years now and this issue has been this way whole time just asking the question now before i prep for the DC 10k to be put in, the issue is obviously voltage drop at idle its fine with alternator over the 1200 or 1500 rpm whatever it is but from reading other ppls setups to me seems like i should be able to run my setup full tilt without that much voltage drop. the voltage drop is enough to turn off my headunit so like below 13.5 idk my headunit doesnt like voltage too much lower than stock which is kinda good since it doesnt stay on like below 13 to really damage my stuff. So i know adding another d3100 id be set but for like 2700w 3 big batts and a 370 seems like alot, i checked my grounds they seem solid and fine its all 1/0 and hydraulic crimped so is there something wrong or does this setup seem like ya i should be dropping that much at idle because i dont want to have this problem when i add my 10k and have to have more batteries than i actually should need, and no i dont plan on running a 10k on just 2 batteries but i would like to know about how many d3100 i should need oh and system tuned with dd-1 and cc-1 headunit is pioneer DEH-x8500BS
  21. My alternator went to shit need a H.O. Alternator. Hit almost every one up and none want to make a Alternator For a 2010 Nissan Altima 2.5S. They have it for the 3.5 But its not an exact replacement already took a look at it. Does any one know a shop that would make it.
  22. Feel free to comment, im always looking for things to improve and small projects to do. Its been too quiet and too long since I have had loud bass.. its time.. I have already got most of the parts for it have been saving and getting everything together since the winter months, the plan was to do a clean build with quality items and is front facing and sealed off from the trunk. I'm not going to upload all the photos at once so I will be trying to maintain an order since I never got around to making a thread about it the last 6 months Heres the car I just tried out some turtle wash and spray wax, Not sure if im satisfied especially with the pollen that was blowing all around.. Ill bust out the real wax next time. Getting stuff together some Sky High 1/0 OFC and 6 Lug Battery Terminals. XS Power D3100 for the trunk, aka stock spot. After ALOT! Of considerations I finally decided to save some cash and go with the hds 300 12s.. well see how they do. 5/23 More pics.. This was when I bought it 2 years ago. Put a Kenwood DDX470 into it soon.. was rough finding anything for this vehicle. I had to alter the dash mount I got.. and even after its still not a perfect fit, but its not noticable and now the radio actually fits in it I ended up redoing the 2 trim pieces around the shift knob and radio repaint and everything a graphite gray and put new boots on the shift knob and e-brake. Now I have to get the center console out and do the uglier areas.
  23. new truck=new build log pioneer 80 prs crescendo 1100.4 pwx 6.5's crescendo 3.5k 4 dc m3 8's under back seats skyhigh wire this is my temp setup while the rest of the parts come in https://www.dropbox.com/s/zq6jwvnt0wcglyi/Snapchat--1540853111230944029.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/76ivnqdw1g3hxff/20150422_220651.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqvziqntsbpp7y2/IMG_0399.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fzsboj0j0h0bofg/20150421_223257.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ty9urwjlywisgl3/IMG_0866.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/4i1v5ikrxj0o7n9/IMG_20150423_225849.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/vrvp4y4ksluhrrr/Snapchat--8400200905111688088.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/n1iokncl60resen/20150421_223301.jpg?dl=0
  24. So I have a friend who wanted me to help him with his ride. Explained to him I am no where near professional and feel I can't charge for my work, not something I can say I will have done by X time. Told him it will be a project we work on together. He had been parting together everything over the colder months and things are starting to finally start coming around in progress. HU is installed, all the wires for the alt + and everything in the back except the runs to the amp are all made, crimped and soldered. SMD VM-1 installed by my buddy, really love the idea he had for it. But more is to come, hopefully getting some start on boxage in the next few weeks. Here is the gear list. Kenwood Double din (don't have model # atm) Sky high car audio 1/0 cable all around Stinger 6k RCA's SMD VM-1 XP3000 Stock batt later to be AGM Undecided Alt DD 9515j DD M4 Big box go boom Here's some snaps of da bish Working on his ride jamming with my tunes That engine bay. I had made a topic earlier and some asked about the engine bay. The alt is hard to reach, but with some removal, access gets a lot easier. Bare gutted trunk and batt in stock location. Putting stock batt on right side, xp3000 on left side. New location Le wire Left switch is parking break ground so you can have DVD's and video going. Right switch is a on/off for the remote wire. My buddy wants the ability to just turn off the sub when he don't want to hear it. Pos from front to back, trunk batt ground, and pos/neg for in between batts Then the VM-1 Then all the wires, all that's left is the box and batteries to be positioned really. RCA's, remote, pos/neg for vm-1