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Found 62 results

  1. *************[Note: Since photobucket decided to nerf everyone's accounts, a lot of the pictures in this thread are gone. I intend to fix all of the posts but it will take quite a while. Photos start on page 29 currently. In the meantime all of the photos are available on Facebook by searching #projectflexington and many are on Instagram under the same hashtag. Thanks for looking and please don't be afraid to comment! ]************* So figure it is time to start a build log for my 6th order wall. Been working on it for a few weeks now. I'll start by posting the equipment I'm using for the build. Electrical: Batteries: 2 nsb170fts and 2 stinger group 31s: 3 banks of super caps: 2 singer 320amp alternators (these came with the truck, I'm currently in the process of redoing the bracket to strengthen it and add a tensioner but I'll elaborate later): 4+ spools of skyhigh 1/0, knukonceptz 4/0 ofc for alternators (will post pictures later) Terminals, marine grade ring terminals lugs, properly crimped with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink: Subs are 2 sundown x15s rev 1(will be rebuilding for level 6 18s at a later date): Sub Amp, kicker warhorse: Head unit and tweeters, Sony dsx-s210x and 4x Earthquake Screamers, 1.5" 150wrms per pair silk Dome tweeters with replaceable voice coils: Mid bass, 4x dayton audio 10" pa woofers, 300rms each: Mids are tbd, probably 2 8" midrange speakers. Lots of Baltic birch: If you enjoy, please comment!
  2. My instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshdashef1/ Most updated pics can be found at https://www.tumblr.com/blog/joshdashef | I use Tumblr as my picture hosting platform | Previously I had a RF Prime 750.1 going to two RF 12 4DVC on stock electrical and big three. New Build Equipment Active Setup from HU: Pioneer 80 PRS Front Stage T2652-S powered off a P600X4 (4 ohm | speaker per channel) Lows 2x P3 4DVC Sundown SA12s (soon to be Fi SP4v2+ 15") powered off a DC Audio 2k (1 ohm | Dual 1/0 inputs) (to be replaced by AAK 4000.1D) Batteries Starter - XS D5100R (Flat 6 Bolt) Walmart Group 51R | Reserve - XS D3400 (Flat 6 bolt) Alternator Mechman 240 Blue Wiring RCAs - Rockford Fosgate 20ft | Sky High 1/0 Blue (2 runs) | Sky High 10 gauge (subs) | Front Stage Speaker Wire - undecided matching Sky High 14 gauge Fuse Holders / Gauges Blue Seas Analog Volt Meter | Stinger Volt meter (red) | Sky High dual anl fuse holder (two for main power and one for sub amp input) | SMD Fuse Blocks 3x dual 1x single Planned Upgrade List 3 pairs of RCAs Done New Wider False Floor Not needed New Sub Enclosure 2x12 or 1x15 DONE 2x12 Amp Rack for Dc 2k and four channel Done Distribution Block/Fuses (trunk) Done Dual Fuse Mount under hood Done Replaced with SMD dual fuse holders - Thanks audiofanaticz Running two runs of 1/0 Sky High OFC front to back Done Battery Mount for XS D3400 Done Mechman HO Alternator Done New Headliner New Rear Parcel Tray or Reinforce old? Fix Gas Lid Wire Done Stinger Volt Meter for front and rear batteries Done Treat doors for new mid woofers Outer skin treated, need to cover holes with thick metal sheet and rivets Run speaker wire for mids and highs Done Install train horn in rear bumper Done (Now I want to add one to the front bumper) Setup LEDs above amp rack Done Install distribution block and run +/- 4 or 8 gauge for it. 4 gauge +/- Done Sound Deaden areas; Doors (outer skin middle 1/3 done and focus directly behind speaker) Roof Wheel Wells (partial coverage) Trunk lid (lower 1/2 done) (Outer panel 3/4 done) Trunk spare tire (1/4 done) Parcel Tray License Plate (Full coverage with foam around it) Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Amp: Subs / Old Q-power Box: Under Hood: Day 1: Strippin 'er down Trunk Cabin | Rear/Front Seats Removed and some panels including center console (didn't get a pic of rear seats will do tomorrow)
  3. What do you guys think of running 1 Dc level5 in 1.5 box at 38 Hz on crescendo 3500. Need opinions this sub is not cheap.
  4. Hi everyone! I just purchased an xs power 3100 but I ran into the problem of the battery being a bit too large to fit in the original spot as the factory wet cell. Any ideas or tips on figuring out a way to fit this beast? Thanks , i'd gladly appreciate any ideas!
  5. I currently have an AQ2200D, I'll be running 0 gauge for everything, including the Big 3. I'll be running two 12" Fi SSD's fully loaded, if that info helps. I'm looking to upgrade my battery under the hood as well as putting a battery in the trunk. I've looked into xs power, tempest, dekas, etc. I do not know what to look for when finding the right batteries for my application. I'll be using this system as a daily ground pounder. Thank you all for your knowledge.
  6. ordered 2 more xs d3100s from Showtime car audio going 2 have 2 batteries on each side of my port just wondering on how to properly ground the second set of batteries. My current setup Option 1 option 2 Do I ground all batteries on same frame rail or one set on each side being that this would give shorter ground path. Don't want to induce noise etc. ty for all your help
  7. Has anyone ever tried to install a DC to AC inverter into there build and use the produced AC power to supply an AGM or Lithium battery charger? Would the battery charger be able produce more of a charge to the system than the inverter would draw from the system resulting in a positive charge to the system over time?
  8. (This log is dedicated to my wall build, my other log is very cluttered with old builds and some talking) Okay, so I finally decided to go big and put a wall in my 97 Explorer Sport. I knew I didnt have much space to work with and have wanted to try a bandpass for a while now. So here we go... I built the box to slide in the hatch had to gut the explorer too... and finally in the car
  9. build is as follows. 3 1200.4 from PURE Audio 1 fsd 2600 5 c/d 490MR 1 d3400 2 15 dc lvl 4 with xl parts 4 6.5 midbass from PURE Audio 6 2.5" supers from PURE Audio 8 1" tweets from PURE Audio 100+ ft 1/0 OFC 100+ft 8 ga OFC Singer 270 h/o alt Soon to come: 1 cockbox 20 ft 18 ft 6 ft and 6 3ft runs of shca triple shiled rcas rear suspension upgrade a pillar fab finish door fab full length batt to batt bank runs
  10. i want to add a small second battery to my system im putting it in a 08 honda civic ... im not sure what the alternator exact output is but im guessing its 90amps ... i have a duralast gold under the hood right now and was going to add an xs power d375 in the back (duralast 625-ca,85-Rm) (xspower190-ca,rc-15,ah-14) .......... will this be OK to run without getting a H/O alternator ???? :huh2: :huh2:
  11. does anyone know were to find a GOOD battery terminal that has 3 inputs ?? i need it for my battery in the back and i was going to have 2 amps wired to it and have my power wire from the front battery hooked up to it ....... ??????
  12. If your into Sundown audio then this video should definitely hold your attention.. Actually, if your into car audio just the slightest bit, this video will do wonders for you. Filmed and edited by myself. This is Dennis Romasco's Isuzu with a badass 4th order inside. Watch VIDEO Comment Like SHARE and subscribe=]
  13. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  14. I want a an extra battery for my audio system. I drive a 2007 Ford Fusion 2.3L. I have an "ok" stock battery, not sure what, but I think it is Motorcraft BXT-96R. Anyway, I'll be upgrading it to Interstae Mega-Tron II. But that's not the topic, just extra info that you might want to know. My maximum amount of RMS power for my audio system is 2000W. I used the audio calculator to find the best battery for my needs for kinetikpower.com and 4xspower.com. They recommended XS Power XP2000 and Kinetik HC200. On SonicElectronix, they are almost the same price, so the price doesn't matter to me. Which one is known to be "better"?
  15. WAD UP EVERYONE! My name is Jose, but you can call me Razon as that's my last name and my youtube name (RAZON35). In this thread I will be posting up my system in my new ride for 2015. I'll be revealing this HOE as many people still haven't seen it. Follow me on youtube @Razon35 and Instagram @Razon35 to get more of this build! Hope you all enjoy this and if you do, follow me on my journey and DROP THE BASS!!! Youtube: www.youtube.com/razon35
  16. MECA show Columbus hooked up with Dubndodge and Gunnem cool guys! Took home 6 awards. PHAT 10 PHAT Install PHAT Truck (Suv) Most Improved MOD Street 2nd S3- 2nd place.
  17. I have a dual alt kit for a jeep grand cherokee 4.0l , inbox me for details
  18. 2003 lancer will have two 12" Dc level 4 with a 5.0k amp once fully get the new system will post photos of the old shit intake my ride new box is in but not completed yet, I am owner of disturbing the peace car audio in kelowna Canada everyone hit us up as well on Facebook At (Facebook.com/disturbingthepeacecaraudio)
  19. I need an alternator for my '04 grand prix GT. I was looking for a 220-300 Amp choice to keep my electrical up to par. I have 2 XS power d975 (one front one back), big 3 wiring, but my long run is done by knu CCA and most wiring is CCA. (except for some big 3 strands and such) I am only running near 2k, but would having a strand of OFC 1/0 to my front to rear battery and perhaps another run of ground sufficiently make a difference? My amp only draws 150 A at max. In case I want to run 3k in the future, I would comfortably want a 250 - 300 A alt and upgrade my battery bank. What alt should I go with? I am really looking for something within the price range of 350-450$ Has anyone ever used stock case sized rebuilt alts and had good results?
  20. Hello guys I am in need of some good advice, I am currently saving up for a new system, and it will consist of two PSI 10 inch subwoofers both at a dual 2 ohm load, and they both will be hooked up to separate amps. The amps I am pairing them with will be sundown saz2500d wired down to one ohm. So I will be hoping to push about 5k watts daily. I am going to get a yellow top optima for under the hood, not for sure which model i would need. I drive a 2012 Chevy Cruze 1LT with the pioneer upgraded sound system. The batteries I am going to put in the trunk will be xs power d3400's, I am putting two in there, not for sure if it is correct. So I was wondering if I should get an ho alt. and get the a yellow top optima and would I be fine with the two d3400's in the rear? Please help me out it would be greatly appreciated if anyone could. Thank you for reading this.
  21. This is not my actual UBL, I posted this in the wrong section. I've asked this to be moved. feel free to post. Well, first off. This is going to be off to a slow start. As some of you know, I totaled out my beloved daewoo and did not have full coverage. I was also between jobs when it happened. So I just picked this 2dr, 4wd blazer today, literally. I got it for a good deal. It needs some work, but it'll be worth it. I got some shit to fix on it, A/C, some suspension work, and I think the front axle solenoid is bad, I hear the transfercase solenoid kicking in, but no pull from the front. Few little nick nack things to fix. No biggie, I'm good at turning a wrench. Any way, I'm pretty well broke right now, until I get steady cash coming in. Most likely the build will start with one of my BC3500's on one of my ufo BTL/Zv3 hybrid 18's. I'll be running xs power batteries all around, I've got 3 D3100's all and will most likely pick up 3 more. Also as some of you know, I won that IA contest a few months ago. I'm still waiting for their new wardens to show and amps. 6-7 D3100's 1 Mechman 320 amp alt 2 IA comp sets per door, one actual dedicated mid bass and an decent super tweet per door. three IA6.4s Haven't fully decided on wire yet, but something silver tinned There will be some vehicle mods besides car audio too some daewoo stuff first this is the biggest issue on the body all gone
  22. Installed a couple weeks ago my cpillar slide in wall For 6 ab xfl 1222s on 2 dc 5ks. 3 top on 1 dc5k @1.3 ohms and 3 bottom on another dc5k @ 1.3 ohms. Have blown the bottom middle woofer now twice. First time thing I went to hard on it being that it took months to finish and killed the coil. 2nd one was rushing to get it playing for slammology. Broke it in for 3 hours @ 40 and 30 hz on a dc5k @ 4ohns 900 something watts Went to install it the next day screwed up poked surround like a idiot. Fixed it with shoe goo Played fine all weekend till my 4th demo at slammology then that infernal slinky sub sound. What am I doing wrong? 1. this is my first wall 2. First time running 6 subs 3. First time running this kind of power and running 2 dc5k to 1 enclosure 4. Set amps with dd-1 to older 5k cause seemed to be lower of the 2 amps. Set with -5 db track 5. Gain matched both amps to the older 5k with cc-1 6.slide in wall is top L port 7. Almost seems like bottom 3 subs move more then top ones ( but not 100 percent on this ) 5 broken in subs and one new one as soon as I buy another one from ab. Please help I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this out and can't afford to keep replacing subs. Now have 5 good and 3 bad subs.
  23. were can i find bus bars ??? looking for a small piece about a 1-2 inch thick 4-5 inch long and wide enough to fit on a battery terminal
  24. The purpose of this thread is to evaluate and discuss the internal resistance of various batteries and (possibly?) test methods. I’ll start this off by using the DC Load method to test some XS AGM, some K2 73Ah cells, and some K2/JYP 80Ah cells. The DC load method was used because that’s all the equipment that I had available or was able to purchase quickly and on the cheap. Here’s a link for more information on Load Test Methods. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_internal_resistance Calculation used was Rint = ((Vrest/Vload) -1) x Rload) Where Rint = internal resistance Vrest = Voltage at rest Vload = Voltage once load is applied Rload = resistance of the load resistor Now onto some pictures of the setup. If there is something amiss please chime in so we can figure it out. 1ohm load resistors (although they test out at 0.9ohm) I connected them in series on one end, and I can change the resistance by simply connecting my jumper wire differently. I have the opportunity to connect at 0.45ohm, 0.9ohm, and 1.8ohm. Here's proof of half(ish) ohm, although I didnt use this low of a resistance for data collection: So this connection would be 1.8ohm This connection would be 0.9ohm Here's the 73Ah K2 cells (not JY collaboration batteries) The day before testing, I topped off all the batteries, including the JYP's in the back and the AGMs to the right. 24 hours later, I actually took measurements. Data for the lithiums: Data for the D3400R AGM Looking forward to some comments, suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking!
  25. Can one external voltage regulators run two alternators, i bought two alts that are designed around my system and i want to know if i can run only one voltage regulator for both alts, The company sent two regulators but im trying to see if i can get away with using one.
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