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So i recent got some 1/0 knukoncepts wire, and some tsunami terminals. . . my only problem is after i installed everything, my car wouldnt start. if i hold the old wires on, then it starts. . . should i take off the old wire? (i left them connected and disconnected from battery, but had the 1/0 fromthe exact same spot to the bat so idk whats the problem)

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It should work with your factory wires in place. That's how mine is now but I plan to remove all the factory wires soon. Make sure all your connections are good, your grounds are on sanded metal, and make sure your batt terminals are on tight. My truck didn't start once bc I didn't have the negative terminal on all the way.

Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp

Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12"

Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator

Wiring: RF 0 gauge

Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net

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Did your Big3 include a run to the starter?

By removing the old wire you probly disconnected the starter.

Leave the old wires connected.

More wire never hurts!

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ummmmmm you idk man. batt positive to alt, batt neg to ground, block to neg

would a short in the wires cause this to happen? does it just stop or does it spark when you try to do it

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Did your Big3 include a run to the starter?

By removing the old wire you probly disconnected the starter.

Leave the old wires connected.

More wire never hurts!

I agree. I think you might not have replaced the starter wire.

Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp

Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12"

Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator

Wiring: RF 0 gauge

Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net

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it just makes one click sound (cant pinpoint when in the car haha) so maybe it is the starter. . originally there was bet to engine. bat to chassis, bat to alt, and pos of bat to some fuse box. the ones i put back after big 3 are engine to bat and the wierd fuse block one. so im gonna see whihch one it needs (prob the fuse block thing0 and go from there. . . aside the fact. i still notice bad light dimming. id what amp is putting out a 2 ohms (american bass hd 3500) its 1600rms at 1 ohm but its at 2 right now. . . new sub this weekend will be at 1 ohm. will that make it worse?

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Probably. What's your electrical look like?

Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp

Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12"

Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator

Wiring: RF 0 gauge

Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net

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I would put any money down that your power wire off the battery has a wire harness that splits to different places. When I did my Big 3 my pos wire has that, it goes into a wire harness and splits to a few different places. So I just ripped up that permanent battery terminal and drilled a whole on the side so I could fit it into my new terminal. From there I removed all the stock grounds and just replaced them since I know where they started and ended. That was the key to why I kept the pos, I didn't know where it all went, nor did I want to find out. Also for my car, there is a part off the pos harness that goes into the fuse block, so I had to keep it.

Edit:

DSCI0065.jpg

The top wire off my pos is the old pos wire, you can actually see it has a few wires there going into it.

Edited by RooTxBeeR
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

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