07denali

From battery to amp. You generally don't need multiple runs of wire for your alternator but it doesn't hurt. I would suggest having someone with a little more knowledge help you. Multiple runs are needed when your system exceeds the capacity of the wire you are running. For big systems, say 10,000 watts, and let's say voltage is 14 volts, that's 714 amps. Your 0 gauge has a capacity of about 300 amps, assuming it's decent OFC wire. So you will need at least two runs of 0 gauge, but preferably three, in order to move the power your system requires. You should be fine with one run with the 3.5K.

Wire the batteries in parallel and only hook one up to the amp. Dual inputs is for when you are running multiple runs of wires.

Happy 21st!

Finance

Thats hilarious. How did she get that pimple on her tongue?

The problem with wiring it to OEM configuration is that the starter wire is not long enough. I also replaced the battery terminals with aftermarket ones so the OEM wiring no longer fits. But it will not reach the battery so I connected it to the OEM fuse block. I understand I should stick to proper fusing, but I was just looking for an answer as to why. I guess I just like to know the reason behind things rather than just doing it for the sake of it "being the right thing." The fuse blew when I forgot to disconnect the negative on the battery. So the power wire was live and touched the engine block and shorted. Here is a pic of my install: As you can see at the rear, that fuse block has my alternator power wire going in and has the computer system, starter and battery coming out.

Oh and the starter wire did go straight to the batt originally but it wasn't long enough to reach the batt post (they give you barely enough to reach) and since I turned my batt, it wouldn't reach so I put it on the fuse block which works fine. The other option was to replace the starter wire to reach the batt but that would have taken a lot more work since the starter solenoid is under the truck.

I'm using a bigger fuse b/c I ordered 175 amp fuses but the lady sent me 300 amp fuses so I used them anyways. The original fuse blew when I forgot to take the negative off my batt and took the power wire off my alternator and it grounded on its own casing. Basically my wiring is fine. Everything works great and looks nice and clean. I'm just curious what problems can be caused by using a fuse that is bigger than I'm supposed to. I'm guessing I need to be around 200-250 amp for fuses.

FYI, the OEM fuse block already had the starter and fuse box to it, plus a wire to the battery. That's exactly how I replaced it but upgraded the wires that go from alt to fuse block then to batt with 0 gauge. For the most part, the OEM wires stayed the same and I only upgraded the wires to do the big 3 rather than adding to it. But now I'm using a bigger fuse which is more than the draw of my truck.

No I removed all the factory wires and replaced them with 0 gauge. The only two OEM wires left are the starter wire and the wire that runs to the trucks computer. everything works fine. I was just wondering if the 300 amp fuse I'm using is too much when it should probably be 200-200 amps. And if it is, what issues will it cause.

Hey I asked this question in another thread but never got an answer so I figured I'd start my own thread and ask. I have a 200 amp in-line fuse to my 2nd battery under the hood running and that running to my primary battery and a 200 amp circuit breaker going to my amp. My truck has an OEM fuse block with a 175 amp fuse which I used to connect the starter, alternator and battery. But the OEM fuse blew and when I ordered 175 amp fuses, I received 300 amp fuses. Will it hurt anything by using different size fuses or fuses that are too large for my electrical system? I think a 200-250 amp fuse would be more appropriate for the OEM dist block. Thx guys.

I have two short runs of RF 0 gauge red that's maybe 12-15" in length if you want it. I paid $4/ft but its just laying around bc my installer did my install wrong. I went back in and redid it and ended up with those short runs I don't use.

Clean engine

Surprisingly, my stock volt meter is pretty accurate. I use to check it a lot before I bought my Stinger meter and I would notice it would start high then drop while I was in idle. I cross-check it with my Stinger meter now, which was calibrated with a DMM, and it is almost dead on. However, having a digital meter that gives you an exact number is much easier to read and gives you a more accurate reading. My Stinger volt meter goes to my amp. Not sure about the stock one. I would guess the alternator or primary battery but I'm not certain. It was definitely worth the $20 I spent on it.

LOL, I have the twisted RCAs too. Tony is a great seller. I picked up a few things from him. The products were awesome especially the heat shrink. I like seeing small businesses like his thrive. He answered all my questions quickly and products arrived fast. What more could you ask for?

Hey buddy, the havoc is 1250 RMS. Thx for all the replies. I'll swap out the wire for 8 gauge. I tend to go for overkill myself. Awesome,... I did mean what does the AA take wire size wise....but,.. shit,... i will try and save coin where i can, BUT,... i dont think using or swapping out some great speaker cable will break the bank...... anyway,.. great luck my friend,... (remember, wife and i wanna see some pics!!!)... really like your attitude,.... stay with it... klb Thx man. I will definitely post pix. Not too sure what gauge the sub takes. Right now all of my wires are RF. Great stuff.

Hey buddy, the havoc is 1250 RMS. Thx for all the replies. I'll swap out the wire for 8 gauge. I tend to go for overkill myself.

I'm running a RF T1500bdcp at 1 ohm to an AA Havoc 12. I used either 12 or 16 gauge speaker wire which is what came with the RF amp kit. Is that speaker wire sufficient or should I upgrade it to 8 gauge? I've been seeing a lot of builds with 8 gauge speaker wire so it had me thinking.

I got my volt meter in yesterday and calibrated it. Someone suggested fusing the remote and power wires. Is this necessary? I just ran speaker wire straight to the meter. I didn't think a fuse was necessary since the meter draws such little power.

Thx guys. I will try wiring it to the amp again. My amp is mounted under a seat so the inputs are hard to get to or see fully so I wasn't sure if the wires were in all the way. Unfortunately I think the installer glued the amp to a piece of thin mdf so I couldn't get to it without undoing everything. I'm just going to remount it myself. Where can I buy short runs of 14 gauge? I looked on parts express and the only sell it per 50 feet. Ideally I'd like red, blue and black to keep the colors the same and extend it from the amp to console bc the wires that come with it are like 6 inches long. OP, sorry if I hijacked your thread.

I have the stinger volt meter with remote wire. Is it better to wire it to the amp or battery? I tried wiring it to my amp but it didn't work so I figured either I was wiring it wrong, the meter was broken when I received it or I didn't have the wire pushed in far enough and not getting a signal. I was just going to extend the wires and run it to my battery and the remote off my HU but it would be ten times easier to just go straight from the amp.

I had that same sub for about five years. It was okay. Not bad but not great. It got loud but didn't do well on the lows compared to my Havoc. Maybe it was the box. Anyways, looks like you have a nice start.

Probably. What's your electrical look like?

I agree. I think you might not have replaced the starter wire.

Does it matter if it checks the batt or amp volts? It would make it a lot easier to do the amp since its behind my drivers seat and since all three wires can be plugged right there instead of getting power from batt, ground wherever, and remote at HU. Otherwise I'll have to run a lot of wire to get it into my truck. And I'll have to take my HU and console apart to get to the rear of the HU for the remote wire. Man, looks like I'll have to buy a dmm.