IndianaBassHead Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Spray expanding foam into plastic sheeting or even plastic bags around the box, that way it won't leave any residue in the car. Watch it carefully to make sure it stays how you want it. Then trim it out and make it look nice with some wood. Use thick foam tape around the wood to make sure the wood doesn't leave any marks either. If there are significant spaces that need to be filled in, you may want to take some wood, like 2x4s, and build up around the front of the box before you apply the foam. Will that be required to fill the area or will it be fine if i just put one sheet of mdf in the front to seal it and one in the back to seal the back for my amp display? Quote Audio Build Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2) Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4 Mids/Highs: Skar components Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31 Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/ Perfomance Build 2003 Nissan 350z Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels 466rwhp Bike 2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14 Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 The foam would be the actual seal, the wood would just make it look more pleasing to the eye. If you do it right, you will get a great seal, it will look nice, and you won't damage the car at all. Quote Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Lol I would just go to the junkyard get a headliner in ok shape and do what I want to it cut it fiberglass whateva or buy a new one and play with the one in there You have a wall a new headliner should have a fraction of the cost of your equipment Its like 150 to have your headliner re uplostred That's what I would do Edited July 20, 2012 by Team Bassick (ALPINE) Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaBassHead Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 That's true and it's not about the money necessarily. It's just that this is my DD and I just want it to look nice still. But i definitely know what you mean. and I am a noob at fiberglassing so I don't trust myself with that lol. Quote Audio Build Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2) Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4 Mids/Highs: Skar components Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31 Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/ Perfomance Build 2003 Nissan 350z Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels 466rwhp Bike 2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14 Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaBassHead Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 OK, ive decided that I'm going to use expanding foam tonight to seal it off completely. should i use saran wrap or plastic bags to hold the expanding foam? The only thing I'm worried about is how much great stuff it's going to take to seal all of the gaps. Do you guys think that would be my best option to make a quick seal? Tonight is the only night I will have free and it seems like that's the quickest option. Quote Audio Build Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2) Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4 Mids/Highs: Skar components Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31 Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/ Perfomance Build 2003 Nissan 350z Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels 466rwhp Bike 2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14 Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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