hayabusa boi Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 so this would be good for a daily driver and local new orleans area crank it ups and scraping the coast type stuffing. cause right now it his only ride, saving up to put down on a vette. then it will just be car show type stuff Quote 2006 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R Limited Edition 2006 Dodge Charger SXT Kenwood Excelon KDC - X692 Factory Boston Acustics System upgrade (7 speaker system) 2010 Chevy Tahoe LS Pioneer AVIC - Z130 Audiopipe AP-2004 Audiopipe AP-15001D (2 pair) Boston Acoustics PRO60SE 6.5 - changed to Polk Audio MM6501 (2) Planet Audio BB215D - changed to Lanzar Opit 1533d for now FREEBIES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Sorry I disagree with that vid I have tested my car with just backk chassie ground the ground from batt to batt and tested again with batt and chassie ground I gained .3 volts with the batt to batt ground vs just chassie ground and gained .1. More volt with batt and chassie ground together Needless to say all my systems have front to back and chassie grounds .4 volts is alot Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Wait I must be wrong there iis a youtube vid showing so I no longer have to test things for myself ill just do what youtube says and watch all the exo vids to learn lol Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaBassHead Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Not to thread jack, but I previously had my system ground with a - wire front to back with no chassis ground. had just a tiny drop at idle. none while revving. Redid my wiring and now I just have my back battery and amp grounded to chassis. At idle I drop down to 12v at full tilt. drops to 13 while driving. Now I am going to have to rewire again lol. And I do have the paint sanded on a ground straight to the frame. I'm only running under 4k watts and i have a 270 amp alt, d3400, and shuriken bt80. So there shouldn't be any voltage drop at all. I agree that a wire front to back will do better in some setups. Quote Audio Build Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2) Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4 Mids/Highs: Skar components Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31 Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/ Perfomance Build 2003 Nissan 350z Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels 466rwhp Bike 2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14 Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayabusa boi Posted August 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 thanks guy for all this info, much needed Quote 2006 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R Limited Edition 2006 Dodge Charger SXT Kenwood Excelon KDC - X692 Factory Boston Acustics System upgrade (7 speaker system) 2010 Chevy Tahoe LS Pioneer AVIC - Z130 Audiopipe AP-2004 Audiopipe AP-15001D (2 pair) Boston Acoustics PRO60SE 6.5 - changed to Polk Audio MM6501 (2) Planet Audio BB215D - changed to Lanzar Opit 1533d for now FREEBIES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Wait I must be wrong there iis a youtube vid showing so I no longer have to test things for myself ill just do what youtube says and watch all the exo vids to learn lol Every car is different. You have to keep that in mind. Quote Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Wait I must be wrong there iis a youtube vid showing so I no longer have to test things for myself ill just do what youtube says and watch all the exo vids to learn lol Every car is different. You have to keep that in mind. No way!!! really? guess my sarcasim was over looked Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Its amazing how many people swore up and down that you always needed equal runs of the same gauge cables from the front to rear, until this video came out. I wonder how much bad information about running cables was given out before this video. And where did the whole run cables instead of chassis ground even start? this is still true for high power systems. they did state its only good for a bit of watts. if youre going to run 30,000 then you will need shit load of wire to run power and ground Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I would run at least 1 dedicated ground cable if you're over 2KW. The chassis/motor/alt/battery ground system isnt always perfect, even with a "big 3." Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Yes do a ground run front to back like the power. Quote TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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