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Enclosure for Single Fi Q 12


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I'm looking for some help designing or finding an enclosure for an Fi Q 12. Here is some background.

1 Fi Q 12 2 ohm running on a Sundown saz 1500dv2. my car is a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero GLS 2 door. I don't care if the box takes up most or all of my trunk space. I'm looking to have one around 2ft^3 tuned at 32hz per suggestion on fi website.

Sub Specs: Fs: 34.2 Hz | 33.9 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil Qms: 7.63 | 7.69 Qes: .39 | .39 Qts: .37 | .37 Mms: 249g | 253g Cms: 0.87mm/N | 0.87mm/N Sd: 481cm^2 | 481cm^2 Vas: 28.3 l | 28.3 l Spl: 86.5dB 1W/1m | 86.3dB 1W/1m Bl: 13.9 N/A | 19.65 N/A Xmax: 28mm Rms: 1500W Sealed box: .8-1.5 High QTScuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz Sub OD: 12.500” Cut ID: 11.125” Mounting depth: 7.000” Displacement: 0.16cuft

I am also open to having someone build the box and ship it to me if price is reasonable because I don't have the tools to do it myself. I can probably get them if I have to but I have never built a box before and I'm not sure how well it would turn out.

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Here is a suggestion for a single Fi Q 12":

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32 Hz

Vb = 2 ft^3

External Height = 14 in

External Width = 31 in

External Depth = 16 in

Port Width = 2 1/2 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 31 x 14

Left & Right Sides = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2

Top & Bottom = 31 x 13 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2

Extension = 19 1/4 x 12 1/2

PBSB.jpg

Let me know any questions.

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Here is a suggestion for a single Fi Q 12":

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32 Hz

Vb = 2 ft^3

External Height = 14 in

External Width = 31 in

External Depth = 16 in

Port Width = 2 1/2 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 31 x 14

Left & Right Sides = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2

Top & Bottom = 31 x 13 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2

Extension = 19 1/4 x 12 1/2

PBSB.jpg

Let me know any questions.

Thanks for the suggestion. Would this be a fairly simple design for someone who has never built one before? I'm willing to give it a try since it will be less expensive than having one shipped here.

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I had mine in a 2.5^3' box tuned to 29hz with 29^2" of port area in a geo metro hatchback. Sounded nice and slaaaaaaaaamed

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

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These are definitely some noobish questions but I want to ask to make sure it is done correctly. Where is the best place to mount the little connector for the wires to run into, and where can I purchase one of these? Also with this size box will I need to worry about making any internal braces or is it small enough that I do not have to worry about that? Last question is I was reading somewhere it is better to make your sub flush with the box once it is actually mounted, something to do with not having resonant frequencies, could someone elaborate more on this and explain how to do this once I mount my sub? Answers to any/all of these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: If someone has a link for complete instructions for DIY sub enclosures that might be best just so I have something to follow from start to finish. I have looked but haven't found a very in depth one as of yet.

Edited by xBevy
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Some speaker terminals here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i456_box-terminals.html

Place in the opposite side of where the port is located, if you can't do angled cuts just don't do any of the 45s, just glue and screw the panels and you are done. The flush mount is done adding a baffle layer with the cutout the size of the overall diameter of the sub.

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Some speaker terminals here:

http://www.sonicelec...-terminals.html

Place in the opposite side of where the port is located, if you can't do angled cuts just don't do any of the 45s, just glue and screw the panels and you are done. The flush mount is done adding a baffle layer with the cutout the size of the overall diameter of the sub.

Thanks again bro I appreciate it.

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No need for the terminal cup in my opinion, just simply get some brass bolts, washers, and wings nuts from Lowes, and some trim rings for the speaker wire, drill the hole on the box, stick the bolt through the internal speaker wire ring, out of the box, and place the external speaker wire on the other end, and secure it with the wing nut. Much easier to install in my opinion, and a lot more secure, and easier on wiring.

Here's an example of mine

169341_500188919998032_887705627_o.jpg

178521_500189089998015_1265909832_o.jpg

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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