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2012 Challenger Trunk Build, 2 RE SEx 15's, HiFonics GLX 1400.1D


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what small indentations are you talking about that wouldn't let you go ported? i dont quite understand

pulled up a stock picture of the trunk to show you, I could do ported but I still would like to have trunk space. if I went anything wider than 33" I would have had to sit it on top of those indentions, and lower the height as it's only 17" high at that point, or scoot it forward and front fire. I value my trunk space. Those indentions on the bottom sides will not move, there is metal underneath from wheel well.

ag_09challengerrt_trunk.jpg

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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Looks nice and solid, sick car too.

Whats the volume of the chambers? They do look a little large.

After displacement, about 1.95 per chamber. Optimal sealed for the RE SEx 15 would be 2cf

oh i gotcha. i would've just said fuck it and fired forward lol. but to each his own.

Normally, I would have as well. But for once i'm trying to go big BUT keep my trunk space at the same time. Killed me in my mustang, I had probably 3 cf left in trunk after box :(

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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what small indentations are you talking about that wouldn't let you go ported? i dont quite understand

pulled up a stock picture of the trunk to show you, I could do ported but I still would like to have trunk space. if I went anything wider than 33" I would have had to sit it on top of those indentions, and lower the height as it's only 17" high at that point, or scoot it forward and front fire. I value my trunk space. Those indentions on the bottom sides will not move, there is metal underneath from wheel well.

ag_09challengerrt_trunk.jpg

I'm not sure if it woul've gained you much space, but you could've had small indentions on the bottom sides of the box. I know you already built it, but I was just throwing that out there.

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what small indentations are you talking about that wouldn't let you go ported? i dont quite understand

pulled up a stock picture of the trunk to show you, I could do ported but I still would like to have trunk space. if I went anything wider than 33" I would have had to sit it on top of those indentions, and lower the height as it's only 17" high at that point, or scoot it forward and front fire. I value my trunk space. Those indentions on the bottom sides will not move, there is metal underneath from wheel well.

ag_09challengerrt_trunk.jpg

I'm not sure if it woul've gained you much space, but you could've had small indentions on the bottom sides of the box. I know you already built it, but I was just throwing that out there.

I really considered it, but I really was not feeling like dealing with the cf adjustments and all of that. I feel ya though, thought about it too!

2012 TORed Challenger

4 Alpine Type-R 10

1 Brutus 2400.1

20' Knu 1/0 OFC

1 XS Power D1200

i8YxD.jpg

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Hmm will watch this build :rolleyes:

The spot with least resistance LOL.

I would ground to a rubber dildo if it had less resistance than a run of 4/0 wiring.

how many poeple work there 3 or 4 lol

At crescendo HQ? probably 2-3

At the sweatshop in china? 30,000 children

No Engine

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Looking nice, but even though your battery is in the trunk of the car and makes wiring a lot easier, you still might want to consider running a new charge line from the alternator to the back battery. The factory charge line is probably, at the most, 4 gauge wire. Good for running stock, but now you have an amp drawing power off that battery and will most likely cause you to have voltage drop. Just a heads up.

formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks
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Looking nice, but even though your battery is in the trunk of the car and makes wiring a lot easier, you still might want to consider running a new charge line from the alternator to the back battery. The factory charge line is probably, at the most, 4 gauge wire. Good for running stock, but now you have an amp drawing power off that battery and will most likely cause you to have voltage drop. Just a heads up.

Or worse. Never want to toast wire.

I'm gonna hate

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