Jordan92790 Posted January 12, 2008 Report Share Posted January 12, 2008 So I got my 18 Fi fully loaded BL in my 1993 Hatchback Mustang...and now everything rattles....The inside of the doors......everything. My hatch is the worst. You can't dynomat the hatch...because it's where the hatch will flex....go up an inch or so, and then hit my car. And my spoiler rattles against my hatch. How the hell do I stop this? It gives me a headache when I listen to it. I have my sub pointed up and port pointing toward hatch. Would it will be loud if I pointed the port foward and sub up? WOuld it still be as loud? I know that would cut out a little bit of the spoiler and hatch rattling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoe1129 Posted January 12, 2008 Report Share Posted January 12, 2008 the couple stangs I have done have all flexed and rattled like crazy!!! the only thing you can really do is fill in the dead spots of the trunk lid, and trunk area ( that wont benefit from mat) with expando foam, and deaden the hell, with mat on everything else, but it will still flex and have some rattle. Other thing is to face the port and sub into the cab and seal the front of the box from the trunk.... just my .02 cents... Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatsaSasuke Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 going along with what roscoe said use that expando foam on ur hatch. u can get it from home depot or any local hardware store. i had to use it on my focus hatch. My system: 1 Sony Xplod 1000.2 wired at 2 ohms. 1 Kenwood Headunit 1 Kicker CVR 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotFI? Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 check my sig. im a 1993 5.0 pro when it comes to this. NO FOAM IN THE HATCH LID. WHY?......... if your no careful, the shit with travel and fill all in the lock and latch area. i sent a ton of time and money fucking fixing it. and on top of it all, that lid is NOT the problem. TRY: the pin that hooks onto the latch, lower that a bit so that you have to slam the hatch down with force to close the lid. that will help it be more air tight. i also added some 1/2 round foam to go on top of the weather stripping for more sealness. also took the back interior pieces of to insulate behind the taillights where the wires are. that helps with vibration. MY MAIN PROBLEM: i gutted the rear hatch area and dynamated the body. then i mounted the box on top so when i was at full tilt, the box was vibrating so hard, it was slapping the body. so i fixed it by placing 1" rubber spacers under the box to give it that clearence. your right. the hatch is the main issue. i got it as tight that i can get it and it will still move alot, but no rattle. i can go take pics right now if you really need then. i hope this helps, because it helped me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatsaSasuke Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 see but on my focus its the sedan version. so the trunk is double plated and rattle of eachother. and if u no what ur doing u can spread enough so that it doesnt do what ur did. My system: 1 Sony Xplod 1000.2 wired at 2 ohms. 1 Kenwood Headunit 1 Kicker CVR 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoe1129 Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 check my sig. im a 1993 5.0 pro when it comes to this. NO FOAM IN THE HATCH LID. WHY?......... if your no careful, the shit with travel and fill all in the lock and latch area. i sent a ton of time and money fucking fixing it. and on top of it all, that lid is NOT the problem. TRY: the pin that hooks onto the latch, lower that a bit so that you have to slam the hatch down with force to close the lid. that will help it be more air tight. i also added some 1/2 round foam to go on top of the weather stripping for more sealness. also took the back interior pieces of to insulate behind the taillights where the wires are. that helps with vibration. MY MAIN PROBLEM: i gutted the rear hatch area and dynamated the body. then i mounted the box on top so when i was at full tilt, the box was vibrating so hard, it was slapping the body. so i fixed it by placing 1" rubber spacers under the box to give it that clearence. your right. the hatch is the main issue. i got it as tight that i can get it and it will still move alot, but no rattle. i can go take pics right now if you really need then. i hope this helps, because it helped me. He can use foam I have and never had an issue with the latch. WHY? because I took the time to seal that area off to keep the foam from getting in there. Now the pin/ latch idea is also great I forgot to mention that. Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatsaSasuke Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 He can use foam I have and never had an issue with the latch. WHY? because I took the time to seal that area off to keep the foam from getting in there. My point exactly My system: 1 Sony Xplod 1000.2 wired at 2 ohms. 1 Kenwood Headunit 1 Kicker CVR 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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