Captain Stupid Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 And just so you know I'm not just some idiot who's all talk, here are a couple videos of my street/race car. It's a 78 Buick Regal with an all aluminum Rodeck blocked SBC 400, 676hp on motor alone, proven on a very tight dyno, capable of 9000rpm, capable of handling another 400 hp worth of nitrous. TH350 trans, 3.90 9-inch rear, full interior, full moly cage, all steel body including hood, power windows and locks still work, stock style suspension, and it runs 9.80s on the motor.....all on 255 radials....no bullshit. The SBC has actually been 8.50s with a 250 shot in the 66 Nova of the guy I bought it from, but I've never sprayed it. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdog Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 have u ever tried polishing the cam valley to help with oil return? REP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathcards Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 updates NNOOOOWWWW! i wanna see this run like a beast skar sk2500.1 0 gauge power and ground kunukonceptz alpine HUvxi65 components on BA gt-275new build log -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150642-project-d-kon-deathcards-build-log/#entry2148821 2 x-15 sundowns singer alt, odyssey bat, and maxwell ultra caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I'm running solid motor mounts. On motor running 93 octane is 702hp @ ~6600rpm. I plan on running 100 or 110 BP. It's 1000hp with the 300 shot that is on it. 12 and a half compression. Roller everything. I changed the filter it was just the one laying around for pictures. The water pump is a stock big block water pump, the only reason it's still on there is because I've never had an issue. After tearing down the motor, the oil pump was in fact junk from the factory. New one should be in tomorrow. All the clearances were tight and I'll be doing the machine work myself this time. As for the ignition I had an MSD full ignition like I said. I changed the points and springs in the HEI for fun and added a vacuum block off. The HEI was some what for fun. I ordered a new diode for my old MSD I'll be testing that out but most likely ordering it all new. I have another cam in the garage that I ran an 8.60 in the quarter with. Same pistons, crank, and rods. Very similar on the top end as well. The other cam was making 100 hp more but with a 114 lobe center quite a bit less torque on the low end. I may throw the other roller back on for the hell of it. As for yellowbullet I am always on the site as well as a few other sites. edit: the cam timing was also off by almost 6 degrees :/. Fixing this as well Your buick is awesome, really good job building that. I want to rip apart my interior and lose a ton of weight but I can't force myself to do it quite yet. ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Sounds like you get her all under control. All I would say though is think real hard about changing those solid motor mounts for a motor plate. If you ask the fellas at YB, I bet they'll tell you anything over 600-ish needs a motor plate. I'm sure plenty of guys have had solid mounts survive over 1000 hp, but personally for me, I wouldn't chance it. Last thing you want when running full throttle down the track is to torque-steer into a wall because of a broken motor mount. I added a motor plate to mine when I crossed 450 hp. Oh yeah, with 15:1 compression I run VP Q16, the oxygenated 116 octane stuff. If I ever run nitrous, I'll switch to C16. Got any videos of the car making a pass? I'd love to see it runnin'! 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I have an added bar I made myself actually that connects from the frame to the block on the drivers side just for a little extra support. I'll try to find a pic of that. I may go with a motor plate but not sure yet. Working on getting it all together for now. I don't have any videos yet but as soon as it's together it's going straight to Gainesville!! A lot of my issue is I'm still using the original brake booster and the ONLY set of valve covers that will fit over the roller rockers are the ones on there. Truth be told I had to do some grinding on #1 intake and #6 exhaust even for it to fit. I'll invest in a new brake booster soon to help with that, but for now these are working fine. I'm also planning on getting an e-vac system as soon as I get more cash. At 18 years old I'm working my ass off to pay for a girlfriend, school, this car, my boat(big block), audio, and gas for my truck that gets 8mpg I fill every week with a 34 gallon tank . ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 You're doing pretty damn good for 18. I didn't even get my first car until I was 19 and I was in the Army making just $720-ish/month. You've got plenty of years ahead of you to get things where you want them. Yeah, you gotta dump those power brakes. Just ditch the booster altogether and you will have more space and no vacuum issues to worry about. And converting a first get to manual brakes is cheaper than upgrading to a smaller booster. And manual brakes set up properly will stop you just as well as power brakes. You'll just need to apply more pedal pressure on hard braking, that's the only downside. For the evac, I like the Aerospace Components setup, but I know a lot of racers prefer the Star setups. Star is a bit more expensive, but Aerospace is prettier and still does the job. Personally, I'd just stay away from Moroso or any of the cheaper units. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I'm doing my best! I have the back brakes just completely unhooked. They're a waste if you ask me. The Z/28 this year came with disk up front and drum in the back. I just love braking and wondering if my vacuum is going to be a bitch and not stop one day. Sometimes I'll throttle it just a little to boost my vacuum when I brake. How would I go about installing manual brakes? ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Stupid Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 You use the same brakes, just a manual master cylinder with the correct ratio and/or an adjustable proportioning valve. I have a TRZ master cylinder and a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I have Strange rotors and calipers, but the same master cylinder and valve could be used on your car. Stops on a dime at 140mph. I can make a 9 second pass and brake hard for the very first turn-off at my local track without a chute, which is usually something that cars any faster than 13 seconds can't make. Go here: http://trzmotorsports.com/316.html for the TRZ page for 67-69 F-body cars and scroll to the bottom of the page for the brake parts. Basically the same exact stuff I have on my car. All of TRZ's stuff is top notch for a reasonable price. I have everything they offer for my car from them, steering, brakes, suspension, etc. 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J R Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 That's a lot cheaper than I expected, I made end up doing that really soon. Basically just ditch the booster in a way? ***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab*** -Jensen 9312 Flip-Out -2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts -Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows -Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors -Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars -Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs ***1969 Camaro Z/28*** -500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous -Audio coming soon- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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