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Battery+Alt+Big 3 upgrade for 1000watt system?


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get the HC2400 its more than enough

do you already have the sub and amp? for what JL goes for you can have better for cheaper and even louder

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I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

That's what I was getting at. No point in buying that 600 battery cause the other one will fit and will obviously be better incase ever upgrade. The 180 alt is more than enough, but incase he ever upgrades, the other one is better. 0 gauge is fine, 2 gauge is fine, but preferred is 1/0. Might be overkill, as everyone stated but... eh, why buy what gets you by rather than making sure you have enough for future? I know the OP stated never plans to upgrade but... you never know. It's addictive. Lol. I've heard it plenty of times, "I'm done. This is final build" and few months later "Alright, so new build, what should I get?"

And as far as you didn't account for the 4 channel amp so should you stick with sayin 1000 watts or bump it up to 1350 or whatnot? You go by the total watts ran. If you have 1 amp that does 1k watts then another amp that does 400, you wouldn't say 1k watt system, you'd say 1400 watt system. Sure, most watts are the sub but you do add it all up. That's why I say 2k watts for mine. 1500 watt amp for subs, 3-400 for the rest. Not slightly at 2k but close enough.

All I wanted to know is if what I picked out would be good enough or possibly better to run the set up I have planned, you answered that. As far as picking up the bigger and better stuff for the future, yeah I could but that's a long flight before I get there when I'm fully done with my system. I had that "bug" when I got my 15" alpine type r sealed and went ported, then to a bandpass but from the start I always knew I wanted the 13w7 on a 1000 slash in a blow-thru. Granted the JX is totally exceptable amp, I've never stood in front of a Sundown or some others equipment mentioned on this site to make me want those products but one thing for sure is.. I'm sure about my choice with the sub and amp.

I was just looking for help in doing the math on these 3 important factors on this daily driver so it can continue to be so without shutting down from the system sucking it dry.

As far as the 4 channel amp not being included at the begining of the topic, yes that is my fault. That's why i'm on here asking questions to make sure I don't F**k up my whip and just gaining general knowledge with what the search bar or google can't provide cause even some of these shop dudes I call get stumped.

Thanks for the info, I think I have enough to consider what is best for my system.

No problem man. I'm the same. I'm basically a noob and don't know jack so if Idk, I ask. And as far as not being around Sundown or whatever brand, I'm the same. I know no one who had anything that was even really comparable of rockford. Sure, they went big like 18" or whatnot, but was ghetto. So my RF setup obviously is nowhere near the top or the best of the best, but for what I've personally experienced it is. May not put up numbers like 150db but don't care, sounds good to me.

I feel ya homie, This will be my 4th set up but this time I'm doing the research and putting up the doe to make this thing a beast. I'm more an SQ-L guy then all bass and no clarity, I don't hold anything against those that do but I just like good clean hard hitting bass. It'll be a little bit before I actually have the blow-thru made cause I gotta get my rims thrown on. ya know?

"If you haven't spotted your sucker in the first 20 minutes.. You are the sucker."

2011 Honda Civic Sedan LX (Auto)

Source: Pioneer 4300DVD

Front: Polk Audio MM6501 Components (Tweeters in Stock Location)

Rear: Polk Audio MM651 Coaxils

Amp: JL Audio JX340/4-Channel Amp

Subwoofer: Alpine Type R 15" - ohm

Box: Q-Logic Bandbass Box

Amp: Alpine MRP-M850 Mono

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All you need is the big three for a thousand rated watts. Save your money unless you're upgrading in the future.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

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get the HC2400 its more than enough

do you already have the sub and amp? for what JL goes for you can have better for cheaper and even louder

Yeah the sub and amp are just posted in my room right now cause the box is being build and should be ready by monday. Got it new but sure as hell didn't pay retail for it. Only other company I would have probably gone with is Audison, then again I've never sat in front of one of their subs but I like their speakers.

"If you haven't spotted your sucker in the first 20 minutes.. You are the sucker."

2011 Honda Civic Sedan LX (Auto)

Source: Pioneer 4300DVD

Front: Polk Audio MM6501 Components (Tweeters in Stock Location)

Rear: Polk Audio MM651 Coaxils

Amp: JL Audio JX340/4-Channel Amp

Subwoofer: Alpine Type R 15" - ohm

Box: Q-Logic Bandbass Box

Amp: Alpine MRP-M850 Mono

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I think ray once told me something like, "your alt is designed to maintain your cars stock electrical" Thats not an exact quote but you get the point i think. But I was running about 1k on a 65amp and two wet cell batteries and could maintain 13.8 after i replaced my grounds with 1/0. Thats overkill I know but the stock wire is suppose to be 8ga and my 12ga speaker wire is bigger.

My point is;

1. A couple of good batteries

2. 2ga run from alt+ to front battery.

3. 2ga from front battery to rear battery

4. 2ga from rear strut to rear battery

5. Biggest wire you can fit into the amp terminals.

That should be good enough. Even with a smaller alt.But don't do like me, buy what is just good enough then have to re-buy better because you got bit by the bug and upgrade every month or two.

That's what I was getting at. No point in buying that 600 battery cause the other one will fit and will obviously be better incase ever upgrade. The 180 alt is more than enough, but incase he ever upgrades, the other one is better. 0 gauge is fine, 2 gauge is fine, but preferred is 1/0. Might be overkill, as everyone stated but... eh, why buy what gets you by rather than making sure you have enough for future? I know the OP stated never plans to upgrade but... you never know. It's addictive. Lol. I've heard it plenty of times, "I'm done. This is final build" and few months later "Alright, so new build, what should I get?"

And as far as you didn't account for the 4 channel amp so should you stick with sayin 1000 watts or bump it up to 1350 or whatnot? You go by the total watts ran. If you have 1 amp that does 1k watts then another amp that does 400, you wouldn't say 1k watt system, you'd say 1400 watt system. Sure, most watts are the sub but you do add it all up. That's why I say 2k watts for mine. 1500 watt amp for subs, 3-400 for the rest. Not slightly at 2k but close enough.

All I wanted to know is if what I picked out would be good enough or possibly better to run the set up I have planned, you answered that. As far as picking up the bigger and better stuff for the future, yeah I could but that's a long flight before I get there when I'm fully done with my system. I had that "bug" when I got my 15" alpine type r sealed and went ported, then to a bandpass but from the start I always knew I wanted the 13w7 on a 1000 slash in a blow-thru. Granted the JX is totally exceptable amp, I've never stood in front of a Sundown or some others equipment mentioned on this site to make me want those products but one thing for sure is.. I'm sure about my choice with the sub and amp.

I was just looking for help in doing the math on these 3 important factors on this daily driver so it can continue to be so without shutting down from the system sucking it dry.

As far as the 4 channel amp not being included at the begining of the topic, yes that is my fault. That's why i'm on here asking questions to make sure I don't F**k up my whip and just gaining general knowledge with what the search bar or google can't provide cause even some of these shop dudes I call get stumped.

Thanks for the info, I think I have enough to consider what is best for my system.

No problem man. I'm the same. I'm basically a noob and don't know jack so if Idk, I ask. And as far as not being around Sundown or whatever brand, I'm the same. I know no one who had anything that was even really comparable of rockford. Sure, they went big like 18" or whatnot, but was ghetto. So my RF setup obviously is nowhere near the top or the best of the best, but for what I've personally experienced it is. May not put up numbers like 150db but don't care, sounds good to me.

I feel ya homie, This will be my 4th set up but this time I'm doing the research and putting up the doe to make this thing a beast. I'm more an SQ-L guy then all bass and no clarity, I don't hold anything against those that do but I just like good clean hard hitting bass. It'll be a little bit before I actually have the blow-thru made cause I gotta get my rims thrown on. ya know?

I'm the same. I think fitting 15's or 18's would be tough in my ride... might just be able to fit one. But... I went with what I got for clarity. I don't want earth shattering bass. Want some clarity to it. To me, personally, 10's are the clearest and 12's are clear but have a little distortion or whatnot to em.

Sheena = pedobear

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All you need is the big three for a thousand rated watts. Save your money unless you're upgrading in the future.

Out of the maybe 20 different folks I've talked to, your the 3rd to say just do a Big 3. I've read and discussed once you go over a 1000 watts then you should look at a battery upgrade. Being a sedan pushing 80amps I can see the alt would need to be upgraded since i'll be running (what was corrected by WastedTalent) 1400 watts all together. Luckly I've been saving so i'll be able to pick up everything all together in the short coming months.

"If you haven't spotted your sucker in the first 20 minutes.. You are the sucker."

2011 Honda Civic Sedan LX (Auto)

Source: Pioneer 4300DVD

Front: Polk Audio MM6501 Components (Tweeters in Stock Location)

Rear: Polk Audio MM651 Coaxils

Amp: JL Audio JX340/4-Channel Amp

Subwoofer: Alpine Type R 15" - ohm

Box: Q-Logic Bandbass Box

Amp: Alpine MRP-M850 Mono

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If you don't want to do all the upgrades (batt, alt, big 3)... and want just the minimal upgrades... personally, what I would do is step by step. Do the big 3 and if that doesn't cut it? Like voltage drops, lights dim, whatever... then do the battery. If that doesn't, then alternator. But as we've all stated basically... doesn't hurt to do it all. Even if you were running 500 watts, unnecessary to do all the upgrades but it wouldn't hurt anything.

Sheena = pedobear

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If you don't want to do all the upgrades (batt, alt, big 3)... and want just the minimal upgrades... personally, what I would do is step by step. Do the big 3 and if that doesn't cut it? Like voltage drops, lights dim, whatever... then do the battery. If that doesn't, then alternator. But as we've all stated basically... doesn't hurt to do it all. Even if you were running 500 watts, unnecessary to do all the upgrades but it wouldn't hurt anything.

Yeah, I thought about it but when I started saving for my sub and amp I was saving for everything else too, I just didn't know how much I would be spending but it looks as if I over saved (which is not a bad thing) then what I had an idea of spending. Atleast I'll be getting my wheels sooner then expected.

I'm just gonna get them all to save the trouble of anything.

if it were me, ofc big 3. see what drop is, then add an xs power battery if necessary

I looked at their website but the only one that shows that will fit in my vehical is the D3400 which is used for people pushing 2500 watts. I'm going to call them tomorrow but if that is my only choice of batt for my vehical then i'm going to stick with the Kinetik.

"If you haven't spotted your sucker in the first 20 minutes.. You are the sucker."

2011 Honda Civic Sedan LX (Auto)

Source: Pioneer 4300DVD

Front: Polk Audio MM6501 Components (Tweeters in Stock Location)

Rear: Polk Audio MM651 Coaxils

Amp: JL Audio JX340/4-Channel Amp

Subwoofer: Alpine Type R 15" - ohm

Box: Q-Logic Bandbass Box

Amp: Alpine MRP-M850 Mono

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