Will this work?

[scooter99]

So I was playing with some enclosure designs that I was thinking about for my Honda Civic 06 EX. I was wanting to do two DC Audio XL's or Level 4's in the rear deck with the subs coming through the rear deck and port. Looking at about 2.5cu ft. I'll be powering these with a Crescendo bc3500d at first and possibly in the future moving up to a bc5500d if needed, depending on the subs I go with.

Version 1

This is what I came up with for the first version but I don't like the port and how it's situated. My other concern was that when I was done with the port, there was only 1" of space between the front and back wall and the port itself. That seems like it'd be an issue.

Specs are: 2.53 cu ft net, 14.23 cu in of port area, and tuned to about 33 hz. I'd like to be about 33 or 34 hz

Here you can see that there's only and inch between the port and the walls.

Version 2

So on version 2 is where I started to get creative. I remembered that the seat in my car has a pass through, that I made, but it's there. I am however, limited to 6" wide by 11" tall. But this port fits perfectly in that. This is where I'm wondering if it will work.

Specs are the same as the above enclosure, 2.53 cu ft, 14.23 cu in of port area, and tuned to about 33hz. But here the port splits from a 9' x 4" port to a 9" x 4" opening and then two separate 9" x 2" ports that wrap around the interior of the enclosure. The reason I came up with this was to do a couple things. One, I'm planning to use Crescendo amps, and they would be in front of the enclosure on the trunk floor in a false floor. So you'll see in the color scheme why that works and fits together.

BUT, would the split work the same as a single port? It's the same amount of port, in the same chambers so it seems to me that it would. But I'd like to have your input on it, box guru's!

Back of the enclosure that faces the seats, you can see the port opening that goes toward the seat.

Side view showing the interior port end on one side. The other side looks the same.

Side view, showing how the port wraps around the interior with the side wall hidden.

Lastly, the layout that looks like the Crescendo amp with the orange stripe (port) in the middle visible through plexi.

Version 3

Then I looked more and got to thinking. This won't work cause I still have about 7.5" average between the box and the seat. It's 6" on top and 9" on bottom between the two. How'd I get the 7.5? 9 - 6 = 3" and divide that by 2 = 1.5". Add the 1.5" onto the 6" and you get 7.5". Obviously it's not a square port, so you have to find the middle of the angle, at least this is my assumption. You're all welcome to correct me if I'm wrong, that's what this is here for.

So given that I had to take some different calcs in mind. Here are the different specs, and the altered design. Same format, port wrap around, but the port opening now goes all the way to the seat itself, and will be sealed off.

2.46 cu ft

14.63 cu in port area (port 9" x 4" x2 7")

34.07 hz tuning

Here goes:

Side view of rear port

Straight on port view

Interior side views w no glass

Upper view

Finally the front view, same as above really

So final bottom line question, will this work with the ports split this way? My only other issue I have, and I need to double check this, is the port in the back actually goes into the cut out demensions of the subs by 1". I highly doubt that the motor and magnet are going to fit in there like that, so I'll probably have to make some adjustments on placement. I also don't know if I have enough room to slide them back another inch cause of the rear window. But we'll see.

My other question, is if this will work that way, in the first version I put a small pyramid in on the bottom of the port to direct the airflow, so to speak up the port. Do I need to also do this in these versions, 2 and 3, and if so how to do I calculate how to do that without choking off the port?

I'm open to some input and learning! Thanks to anyone for comments, suggestions, and help ahead of time!

[revoracing247]

you should probably figure out the whole cub cut out thing. seems like you're trying to do a lot in a small space.

i myself would say do the 3rd design cause less port inside and seems like you can use all the space you can get. plus it'll make the inside a little less complicated.

as for the splitter thing in the middle where the ports come together, you answered your own question. just make sure it doesn't choke it. make sure there's no part that is less then what your port is.

[scooter99]

Not sure I 100% understand your first part. "the whole cub cut out thing"? Can you explain a little?

[revoracing247]

So final bottom line question, will this work with the ports split this way? My only other issue I have, and I need to double check this, is the port in the back actually goes into the cut out demensions of the subs by 1". I highly doubt that the motor and magnet are going to fit in there like that, so I'll probably have to make some adjustments on placement. I also don't know if I have enough room to slide them back another inch cause of the rear window. But we'll see.

i just meant that. sorry some times i have a hard time putting to words what i mean lol

[Joe X]

The T shaped port splits port area so width of the lateral ducts is halved. Check if it is done that way. You should post Torres shots to actually tell what you mean. Also subs up in a trunk car is usually not recommended.

[scooter99]

It is. It's exactly half of what the actual port is. I'll have to find the torres calcs. I think I have a screenshot of them on my other computer, I'm at work.

The subs up, are through the rear deck, not up in the trunk. Not sure if I said that or not.

I'd much rather go with a 4th order for this, but I'm not sure if I can pull that off or not.