appi Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Holy shit your amps are sex. I love those JBLs tanks i got 4 of them JBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Wish I had them MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79Bronco Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Really clean setup you have there. I especially like that disconnect switch you've got wired in there. Not a huge fan of the capacitor (heres an article if you want to learn more about capacitors and why they're actually more harmful than beneficial... http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/nocaplesson.html) Two ways a speaker can fail Thermal Feeding too much power to a driver (think 50watt rms driver being fed 400 watts of signal) whether the signal is clipped or not, the sheer amount of AC voltage being pumped through your speaker produces more heat than the driver can dissipate over a certain period of time. The more power you apply, the shorter that time becomes. Some people can play that same 50 wattrms on 200 watts rms, as long as the signal is clean and the driver can properly dissipate the heat produced by the amp. Probably wouldn't be wise to play full tilt for hours and hours on end with that system; however, since that is a lot of thermal buildup over time, BUT playing with that kind of power for brief periods would probably be just fine. Also, note that just because a signal is clipped does not mean that it will damage your driver. You can play a heavily clipped signal at 2 watts RMS, and the speaker will handle it fine. The misconception that clipping kills a speaker comes from the fact that the amplifier draws in large amounts of power when it clips a signal. (lots more power than you would think) and it's this extra power that kills the speaker. Most people try to avoid clipping for another reason, it's heard as distortion. Nobody likes distorted sound, and when you start to hear clipping, you know your amp has reached it's limit. Mechanical This type of failure deals more with playing the wrong frequencies to certain drivers. Don't play 10 hz tones at full tilt on your sub, you'll see it jump back and forth violently (chances are your VC will be slamming up against your magnet as well. This is really not bueno, and if you know what you're doing, it's really hard to break a speaker this way. Nevertheless, it can happen. Yes, it's still possible to kill a speaker mechanically with too much power, but I've always experienced a thermal failure before a mechanical failure for this reason. Source: Parrot Asteroid Smart Processor: Digital Designs X1 Amps: Soundstream Ref 4.920 + Soundstream Ref 4.400 + Soundstream DTR 3400 Front stage: Hertz 165xl + HL 70 + HT28 Rear fill: Hertz 165xl Subs: 2 SA-12's 3-way active ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 a lot of the time with mechanical, you can start to hear a wollowing or hollow sound if that makes since, like if you were free airing at full tilt sound, that is when you are getting close or at the point of jumping the coil in and out of the gap. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 a lot of the time with mechanical, you can start to hear a wollowing or hollow sound if that makes since, like if you were free airing at full tilt sound, that is when you are getting close or at the point of jumping the coil in and out of the gap. Really clean setup you have there. I especially like that disconnect switch you've got wired in there. Not a huge fan of the capacitor (heres an article if you want to learn more about capacitors and why they're actually more harmful than beneficial... http://www.glasswolf...ocaplesson.html) Two ways a speaker can fail Thermal Feeding too much power to a driver (think 50watt rms driver being fed 400 watts of signal) whether the signal is clipped or not, the sheer amount of AC voltage being pumped through your speaker produces more heat than the driver can dissipate over a certain period of time. The more power you apply, the shorter that time becomes. Some people can play that same 50 wattrms on 200 watts rms, as long as the signal is clean and the driver can properly dissipate the heat produced by the amp. Probably wouldn't be wise to play full tilt for hours and hours on end with that system; however, since that is a lot of thermal buildup over time, BUT playing with that kind of power for brief periods would probably be just fine. Also, note that just because a signal is clipped does not mean that it will damage your driver. You can play a heavily clipped signal at 2 watts RMS, and the speaker will handle it fine. The misconception that clipping kills a speaker comes from the fact that the amplifier draws in large amounts of power when it clips a signal. (lots more power than you would think) and it's this extra power that kills the speaker. Most people try to avoid clipping for another reason, it's heard as distortion. Nobody likes distorted sound, and when you start to hear clipping, you know your amp has reached it's limit. Mechanical This type of failure deals more with playing the wrong frequencies to certain drivers. Don't play 10 hz tones at full tilt on your sub, you'll see it jump back and forth violently (chances are your VC will be slamming up against your magnet as well. This is really not bueno, and if you know what you're doing, it's really hard to break a speaker this way. Nevertheless, it can happen. Yes, it's still possible to kill a speaker mechanically with too much power, but I've always experienced a thermal failure before a mechanical failure for this reason. I am confused by what he wrote at the end "It should be clear that if the voltage doesn’t drop the caps don’t do anything. The voltage MUST drop for them to start discharging."... capacitors are constantly passing current through themselves otherwise they would not function at all. That said, everything else is correct and on the money, though they didnt seem to delve further than basic ESR theory.. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam6604 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 i wouldn't think so...it depends on your box, if you're clipping them, or if mechanically your pushing them too hard. i had a DD 1512 and i had 1200rms to it ( double reccomended ) and i had no problem.. its now my buddies setup and he's been pounding it like that for almost a year now. your box LOOKS a little bit on the smaller side for 2 18's( atleast in the pic ) which normally helps you with handling the higher power.. i'd just try it...i wouldn't wire to like .5 each woofer though. haha Driving my 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 MEGA cab with the 5.7 hemi. Audio: Two 10" Alpine Type R's ( 1000rms models ) Hifonics BRZ 2400.1D @ .5 ohm Two Kinetic 1400 batteries ( soon to have XS power under hood ) Tsunami 1/0 Awg wire throughout truck. Stock Infinity 7 speaker system ( Junk ) soon to be replaced, probably all Alpine. Exterior: 17"Dick cepek rims with 33" Toyo MT tires Bushwacker fender flares Magnaflow true duel exhaust LED tail lights with Projector headlights Plasti-dip fun coming soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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