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HELP, A/F ratio gauge shows very rich every time I accelerate


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If you don't know...Take it to a shop.

Well I honestly don't trust any shops around here. The only shops we have are car lots and a few mechanics. No one that works with FI though. That's why I figured I would ask, as there are more experts on forums than there are locally.

Do you have proper funding to fix it right?

Firsthand experience with said shops?

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

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What's it tuned with? O2 sensor sounds bad. What did it idle at when you bought it? It should either sit at 14-15 or cycle from 13-15ish at idle. 8:1 is borderline not even drivable and you'd have gas coming out the exhaust.

Check your plugs and post a pic or tell the color.

Cold will make it run lean, not the opposite.

150.1 @ 38hz142.3 @ 20hz (windows down)Only 2 batteries

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What's it tuned with? O2 sensor sounds bad. What did it idle at when you bought it? It should either sit at 14-15 or cycle from 13-15ish at idle. 8:1 is borderline not even drivable and you'd have gas coming out the exhaust.

Check your plugs and post a pic or tell the color.

Cold will make it run lean, not the opposite.

I'm assuming it's the o2 sensor. The car runs fine and it sits around 14.5 at idle. I will check the plugs. But I've been reading online and it seems like the o2 sensor is the problem. The thing is, with the greddy system I have, it's not a true wideband. It has a dedicated sensor but I guess it's considered narrowband. Even though it doesn't hook up to the car's stock o2 sensor. The greddy sensor is only $110 so I will just pick one up and see if that fixes the problem.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

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What's it tuned with? O2 sensor sounds bad. What did it idle at when you bought it? It should either sit at 14-15 or cycle from 13-15ish at idle. 8:1 is borderline not even drivable and you'd have gas coming out the exhaust.

Check your plugs and post a pic or tell the color.

Cold will make it run lean, not the opposite.

I'm assuming it's the o2 sensor. The car runs fine and it sits around 14.5 at idle. I will check the plugs. But I've been reading online and it seems like the o2 sensor is the problem. The thing is, with the greddy system I have, it's not a true wideband. It has a dedicated sensor but I guess it's considered narrowband. Even though it doesn't hook up to the car's stock o2 sensor. The greddy sensor is only $110 so I will just pick one up and see if that fixes the problem.

Buy an Aem uego and you'll never question it again, they're like 217 MAP but its worth every cent.

Also typically if your o2 sensor goes bad it will not idle at 14.anything. It'll lean out and be like 15-17 bc the computer sees it as a rich condition and tries to pull fuel.

Oh well, lmk how it goes :)

150.1 @ 38hz142.3 @ 20hz (windows down)Only 2 batteries

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What's it tuned with? O2 sensor sounds bad. What did it idle at when you bought it? It should either sit at 14-15 or cycle from 13-15ish at idle. 8:1 is borderline not even drivable and you'd have gas coming out the exhaust.

Check your plugs and post a pic or tell the color.

Cold will make it run lean, not the opposite.

I'm assuming it's the o2 sensor. The car runs fine and it sits around 14.5 at idle. I will check the plugs. But I've been reading online and it seems like the o2 sensor is the problem. The thing is, with the greddy system I have, it's not a true wideband. It has a dedicated sensor but I guess it's considered narrowband. Even though it doesn't hook up to the car's stock o2 sensor. The greddy sensor is only $110 so I will just pick one up and see if that fixes the problem.

Buy an Aem uego and you'll never question it again, they're like 217 MAP but its worth every cent.

Also typically if your o2 sensor goes bad it will not idle at 14.anything. It'll lean out and be like 15-17 bc the computer sees it as a rich condition and tries to pull fuel.

Oh well, lmk how it goes :)

true wideband setup's do NO GOOD if it's not wired to the ECU (requires AEM EMS, Power FC, Nistune, any good standalone engine management system will do)

Wideband gauge allows you to monitor afr's better than monitoring a narrowband (or lambada) setup...

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's it tuned with? O2 sensor sounds bad. What did it idle at when you bought it? It should either sit at 14-15 or cycle from 13-15ish at idle. 8:1 is borderline not even drivable and you'd have gas coming out the exhaust.

Check your plugs and post a pic or tell the color.

Cold will make it run lean, not the opposite.

I'm assuming it's the o2 sensor. The car runs fine and it sits around 14.5 at idle. I will check the plugs. But I've been reading online and it seems like the o2 sensor is the problem. The thing is, with the greddy system I have, it's not a true wideband. It has a dedicated sensor but I guess it's considered narrowband. Even though it doesn't hook up to the car's stock o2 sensor. The greddy sensor is only $110 so I will just pick one up and see if that fixes the problem.

Buy an Aem uego and you'll never question it again, they're like 217 MAP but its worth every cent.

Also typically if your o2 sensor goes bad it will not idle at 14.anything. It'll lean out and be like 15-17 bc the computer sees it as a rich condition and tries to pull fuel.

Oh well, lmk how it goes :)

true wideband setup's do NO GOOD if it's not wired to the ECU (requires AEM EMS, Power FC, Nistune, any good standalone engine management system will do)

Wideband gauge allows you to monitor afr's better than monitoring a narrowband (or lambada) setup...

Ya I guess I really just need to switch to a wideband. But all of my gauges match and I really wanted to keep the Greddy gauge. Oh well I guess. But my ECU is the Greddy e-manage ultimate.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

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Aem has a setting to ignore the factory o2 sensor and base all readings off of a wideband. If you don't wire it to the ecu it just means you can't log the information bc it doesn't have a voltage output being measured by whatever piggyback unit you log with, wont effect how the car runs or reading one bit if its not wired to the ecu.

150.1 @ 38hz142.3 @ 20hz (windows down)Only 2 batteries

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