proper ground?

[HJ Customs]

For 2k do the big three properly and then do ur ground to frame.

Lol u don't need another 1/0 run for a ground ur good up to 3k rims before u need a separate run. Of course it'll help but it won't be noticeable to ur ear

[SMZ2]

I would save up til I had the money to do it right/safely.

Use 1/0 wire. Drill hole in frame. Sand/grind the paint off completely around the hole. Use stainless steel bolt, 2 washers, nut. All stainless.

That's how I did my frame ground.

So drill through the floor in my car and then add a bolt on the frame for a ground. Then run the wire threw the drilled hole to the bolt on the frame I added? Then run wire to the amp.

[Chris Hammer]

LOL love the advice in this thread...don't even read your posts but dish out the knowledge.

Look at the back of that seat bolt under the cab if you can. In my truck the rear ones go to the frame. Ground there if it does. Just sand and get to clean metal around the bolt.

I've been in your build log already and Im pretty sure you already have the big 3 and a alt?

Oh and the run to the front. There is a thread on here showing negligible difference between running a negative to the batt and grounding in the rear(along with big 3) and that sometimes its the opposite..until you start dealing with multiple runs each way.

Ill post a link if I find it.

I wouldn't drill through my cab to run a dedicated stainless bolt to the frame. ... thats excessive and extra holes you dont need if one of those seat studs is attached to the frame. IF one of the sutds is attached to frame....If not you will have too.

[Guest]

I would save up til I had the money to do it right/safely.

Use 1/0 wire. Drill hole in frame. Sand/grind the paint off completely around the hole. Use stainless steel bolt, 2 washers, nut. All stainless.

That's how I did my frame ground.

So drill through the floor in my car and then add a bolt on the frame for a ground. Then run the wire threw the drilled hole to the bolt on the frame I added? Then run wire to the amp.

correct. make sure you dont drill into anything important like the gas tank, or brake lines, or an oem wire harness.

you'd need a 1/0 grommet (couple bucks) to put in the hole you drilled so the wire you feed through wont get nicked by the metal and cause..problems, to say the least.

[SMZ2]

LOL love the advice in this thread...don't even read your posts but dish out the knowledge.

Look at the back of that seat bolt under the cab if you can. In my truck the rear ones go to the frame. Ground there if it does. Just sand and get to clean metal around the bolt.

I've been in your build log already and Im pretty sure you already have the big 3 and a alt?

Oh and the run to the front. There is a thread on here showing negligible difference between running a negative to the batt and grounding in the rear(along with big 3) and that sometimes its the opposite..until you start dealing with multiple runs each way.

Ill post a link if I find it.

I wouldn't drill through my cab to run a dedicated stainless bolt to the frame. ... thats excessive and extra holes you dont need if one of those seat studs is attached to the frame. IF one of the sutds is attached to frame....If not you will have too.

I have wire for the big 3 I just haven't got around to it yet... and I'm saving for electrical (alt and batts). I'll check and see in a few minutes and upload pictures of the bottom of the bolt.

[Chris Hammer]

LOL love the advice in this thread...don't even read your posts but dish out the knowledge.

Look at the back of that seat bolt under the cab if you can. In my truck the rear ones go to the frame. Ground there if it does. Just sand and get to clean metal around the bolt.

I've been in your build log already and Im pretty sure you already have the big 3 and a alt?

Oh and the run to the front. There is a thread on here showing negligible difference between running a negative to the batt and grounding in the rear(along with big 3) and that sometimes its the opposite..until you start dealing with multiple runs each way.

Ill post a link if I find it.

I wouldn't drill through my cab to run a dedicated stainless bolt to the frame. ... thats excessive and extra holes you dont need if one of those seat studs is attached to the frame. IF one of the sutds is attached to frame....If not you will have too.

I have wire for the big 3 I just haven't got around to it yet... and I'm saving for electrical (alt and batts). I'll check and see in a few minutes and upload pictures of the bottom of the bolt.

Will even the best ground ever in the back wont do much if you don't have your big 3 done. At least add to the existing battery ground if anything.

[Blackedout]

Oh and the run to the front. There is a thread on here showing negligible difference between running a negative to the batt and grounding in the rear(along with big 3) and that sometimes its the opposite..until you start dealing with multiple runs each way.

Ill post a link if I find it.

Please do. Would love to see how a steel frame has less resistance than a solid copper conductor.

[321slapinbass]

I would save up til I had the money to do it right/safely.

Use 1/0 wire. Drill hole in frame. Sand/grind the paint off completely around the hole. Use stainless steel bolt, 2 washers, nut. All stainless.

That's how I did my frame ground.

So drill through the floor in my car and then add a bolt on the frame for a ground. Then run the wire threw the drilled hole to the bolt on the frame I added? Then run wire to the amp.

correct. make sure you dont drill into anything important like the gas tank, or brake lines, or an oem wire harness.

you'd need a 1/0 grommet (couple bucks) to put in the hole you drilled so the wire you feed through wont get nicked by the metal and cause..problems, to say the least.

yes because a ground wire touching metal is bad.. haha jk, i get what your saying. besides protecting the wire it will also look better with a grommet.

[Chris Hammer]

Oh and the run to the front. There is a thread on here showing negligible difference between running a negative to the batt and grounding in the rear(along with big 3) and that sometimes its the opposite..until you start dealing with multiple runs each way.

Ill post a link if I find it.

Please do. Would love to see how a steel frame has less resistance than a solid copper conductor.

Im pretty sure it was a vendor on here..im looking right now. It was on a Altima if I remember correctly.

[Chris Hammer]

http://www.stevemead...-video-on-pg-5/

READ AWAY.

The video is UP! Thanks for all of your input.

Now, a few things to consider . . .

- This vehicle was outfitted with one of our 1/0 AWG Big 3 Kits - hence, the alternator and battery are both grounded solidly to the front frame rail with short runs of full spec 1/0 AWG OFC and the battery is also grounded to the inner fender with a short run of full spec 8 AWG OFC

- We are measuring voltage drop across the negative run ONLY - between the battery negative (-) and the amplifier ground distribution block in the rear

- The T1500-1bd drew approximately 175 Amps with voltage dropping to 12 VDC (need more alternator!) during the "dyno runs"

- 175 Amps of current draw equates to 3,150 Watts of amplifier power playing music - assuming 12 VDC, 75% amplifier efficiency, and 50% duty cycle

- This vehicle, a 2010 Nissan Altima, has a unit-body and does not have a full frame under it

- The Chassis offers 14% less voltage drop than a 15' long piece of full AWG specification 1/0 AWG OFC cable

- The performance of the Chassis of this vehicle will always be better than a single 15' run of 1/0 AWG OFC - 14% better to be exact

- Greater current draw would be required here for the Chassis to become a bottleneck, just how much would require further testing.

So, I'd say with pretty great confidence that if you're running a system with 4,000 Watts RMS or less, and you're playing music, the chassis is totally fine for you. On the other hand, if you happen to own an older unit body vehicle that has been ravaged by salt, rust, and age, the 1/0 AWG ground cable may be a worthwhile investment.