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second try - most watts I can get from a 2010 HHR LT stock electrical?

wellington

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wellington Newbie

wellington

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Like the title says, I'm simply wondering the max wattage I can get from the stock electrical

maximum RMS wattage anyway.

Also ways I can calculate this myself and suggestion for system design welcomed.

I have the saz1500d but almost positive it does not get enough juice...but then again I'm no expert so that's why Im asking the pros ;)

Was ultimately thinking a bunch of 8's or 10's to save on box space and get "dat cone area" without "dat lack of space for anything"

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

revoracing247 Rookie

revoracing247

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Posted

Miguels beat me to it :P

i actually just put a 0Ga from my bat neg to body tonight because my stock one was crap and it has done a world of difference even just with the one wire. im only running like 300W rms but still no dimming of the lights and amp runs so much cooler (the polk pa880 has over heating problems a lot of the time) just saying. i'd suggest doing the big three no matter what system you have, but that's just me

~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~

Skullz Newbie

Skullz

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Posted

It is not about how many watts you can run but how well you can charge what you have, whether it is 1 battery or a bank of 10 batteries.

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wellington Newbie

wellington

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Miguels beat me to it :P

i actually just put a 0Ga from my bat neg to body tonight because my stock one was crap and it has done a world of difference even just with the one wire. im only running like 300W rms but still no dimming of the lights and amp runs so much cooler (the polk pa880 has over heating problems a lot of the time) just saying. i'd suggest doing the big three no matter what system you have, but that's just me

LOL I tried that amp a few years ago and it died while I tested it in the parking lot.

I have 4awg already going to the body (came stock) and it's only about 1 foot.

0awg is pretty expensive but I'm lucky the battery is in the back. only had to get 4' to the amp :)

Would adding a couple 4awg lines to the ground (or perhaps adding new grounds to the body for each line) do anything? Only local place to get 0awg sells it about $7 a foot...

I'm running a single 12" in 4 ohm and it never dips under 14.5v or whatever it's at (voltage meter at amp terminals now)

Going to try 2 ohm with another 12" I have laying around and see how it does. It did pretty good in 1ohm when I watched the voltage. mostly the low-lows would really beg for power...

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

revoracing247 Rookie

revoracing247

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Posted

kind of going along with what skullz said, it's not about the wattage you output. but how much current youre drawing and how much that's taxing your electrical's .

and as far as voltage drop, unless you have a analog volt meter it's kind of hard to tell how much your actually dropping when youre going full tilt.

and i used 0 ga cause i had it already in my truck and wasn't using it (i have 4 ga going to my amp). and as far as being lucky to have your bat in the back...idk about that cause now if you wanna upgrade your charge lead from your alt you have to run it all the way back :P

though if i were you i'd run an aftermarket 4ga wire from batt neg to body and make sure you sand/grind off all the paint on your contact points at the minimum. might be a little unnesisary, but i like to be safe then sorry and all it can do it help :P

~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~

wellington Newbie

wellington

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  • Author
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kind of going along with what skullz said, it's not about the wattage you output. but how much current youre drawing and how much that's taxing your electrical's .

and as far as voltage drop, unless you have a analog volt meter it's kind of hard to tell how much your actually dropping when youre going full tilt.

and i used 0 ga cause i had it already in my truck and wasn't using it (i have 4 ga going to my amp). and as far as being lucky to have your bat in the back...idk about that cause now if you wanna upgrade your charge lead from your alt you have to run it all the way back :P

though if i were you i'd run an aftermarket 4ga wire from batt neg to body and make sure you sand/grind off all the paint on your contact points at the minimum. might be a little unnesisary, but i like to be safe then sorry and all it can do it help :P

Well there is already one 4awg grounded to the chassi. Should i add another in a different spot?

Ill get a pic tomorrow.

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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