scooter99 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Posted December 23, 2013 Now it's time to put it together. Again here I'm using the Nail gun and glue of course. I'm also using a chip brush so I can get a nice layer of the glue down instead of strips. Like so And then went Rambo on it's ass!! NAILED!! Couple more times, same process, and we've got a raw external port! Put it in place and did some counter sinking and screwing. This is all temporary. When I get everything finalized, these screws won't be here and the holes will be filled. The port has to be attached externally and I have an idea for that involving a couple of aluminum angle brackets threadserts, and screws. After that was in again, I taped the outside for an idea of the placement. So then took them out, and this was what was left. not a jagged cut. Why did I do this? Because the trim panel is ready to be altered. Got it up there. But forgot to take off this stupid insulation or deadener or whatever the hell it is. Worthless and in the way that's what it is. But I digress! Got it up there and traced the tape line with a sharpie. Took it out and Cleaned up the lines with the port itself. This saw has paid for itself as well. What a great tool. So glad I got it. Look I'm gonna use it again! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Posted December 23, 2013 Got the port area cut out And then took out the rear light area. That will need to be filled in, but that's no problem. View from the front. Looks good. Sits lower than I thought it would. That's a good thing. Cut one more panel, that I'll be using for the rear deck and to attach to the port itself with the trim piece. I think I'll put a nice 45* cut on the front of the panel, then it will sit nicely with the front of the trim piece. Drew the contours with a sharpie, but i don't think I'm going to need it. I got to looking and it appeared to me that the outside area of the trim panel, was very close to the level of the panel. SO I got a piece of angle aluminum out, and wow look at that. Then I realized that it was just sitting there, and put it up there again, pushed on it a touch like it would be snapped in place, and would you look at that. WE HAVE TOUCH DOWN!! It's perfect! I started to put fillers around the trim panel, with CA glue, but I don't think I did it right. So I may do that over again. This is what it looks like without the last panel. So that's as far as I got tonight. I'm happy with it. So next I'm going to most likely take those pieces back off. I want to leave the top piece off, and then do a piece of 1/4" mdf that will go all the way across in the inner part of the trim panel. Then router out the area where the trim panel will go. It'll make more sense when you guys see it. i'll work on that tomorrow. Thanks for tuning in. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
SoundFreakk Posted December 23, 2013 Report Posted December 23, 2013 Looking good scott!! Nice to see all this progress Ascendant Audio/Rockford Fosgate Car Audio in House Build
scooter99 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks Maiko! Wish I had more time! This has been great for the major part of the build though. I knew the trunk was going to be a bitch! I was thinking, and I forgot to say anything in the picture post. I can't decide if I want to put the rear fill in the rear deck again, or if I want to do door panels in the rear doors. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm leaning towards the door pods. Since I'm doing them up front. I almost think I want to just do nothing on the rear deck. Seal up the holes, and then have a nice smooth flocked panel with the port. I'm interested in your opinions. Just don't anyone get butt hurt if I don't use your suggestion. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
mbdblue Posted December 23, 2013 Report Posted December 23, 2013 Nice build so far man....don't know if you've thought of it, but you can grab some U-brackets and mount the the actuators to the back wall right over your rear struts to get them out of the way.....it would be on a flatter angle but should still work. I did it with my lid except I used regular lift struts. Always fun cutting into that stock metal though, no turning back now AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
scooter99 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Posted December 23, 2013 I'm not sure I follow you on the actuator. Do you have a link to what you did? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
mbdblue Posted December 23, 2013 Report Posted December 23, 2013 I just used a ball socket bracket for my struts, but for the actuator, you could use something like this... so you could cradle the actuator with it and bolt it to the back wall right above your struts AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
scooter99 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Posted December 23, 2013 Oh ok I see what your'e saying now. I'm sure I should just buy the bracket that they sell for them, but I don't think I want to pay $20 for a set of brackets that I can get away with for cheaper. I actually have an idea using the aluminum L metal. It would be similar to that. Or get a piece of square tubing and cut it and then remove one side of it. But we're on the same page for sure. Thanks for the suggestion. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
mbdblue Posted December 23, 2013 Report Posted December 23, 2013 nice man, I'm all for making it over buying it. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
hdorre Posted December 23, 2013 Report Posted December 23, 2013 I love what you're doing with the rear deck.. Good idea. As for rear fill, F that! Hahah.. But seriously, you have kids.. right? My first concern would be them kicking the mids in the back doors. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
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