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Alpine Type R power handling


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So what my plan was for my next setup in my car was to get 2 12" Alpine Type R's both dual 2 ohm's and run them at 1/2 ohm to my amp....and at 1/2 ohm my amp should be putting out realistically 2000-2500 watts rms, but in light of recent events with my buddies alpine type s 12 that im pretty sure we burnt the voice coil on at 750 rms, got me thinking that maybe 2000 rms watts is a little much for the type R's seeing how there rated at 600-1000 rms a piece and they dont have any options for re-cones.... so im wondering if i should get 2 DVC 4 ohms and run them at 1 ohm and put out about 1000 rms watts which should be perfectly fine on them, and easier on the electrical on my car.....or just look into different subs in general, then thought had crossed my mind to just buy another 15"(which i currently already have) and get a dual 2 ohm and run it at 1 ohm for 1000 rms watts instead of 500 currently

Anyone have some idea's for different woofers that are in a relatively cheapish price range?

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What generation Type R is it? I had one of the 3rd gens (600 watt model) and i was running at 2 ohms off my BC2000d. It handled it pretty well, but would get a bit smelly on the lows. If you are looking at 3rd gens, I'd just say to set the gain somewhat conservatively and you'll be fine.

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which ever is the newest model, which i believe is the 3rd gens, oh and the problem with my buddies type S we found last night was the remote bass knob(my fault lol) for ease of not having to tear the interior apart we mounted it on the box and the vibrations started cranking the knob to max, and we were playing psyph morrison-all i gotta do is hit her and about 3/4 tilt and all the sudden sub cut out and zero bass, so i check all the outside connections and they were good, so we need to pull the sub and see if the connections on the inside came out or whatever( has happend to use once before) but im pretty its the sub blown because there was a fairly strong and nasty smell coming from the port

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i hate to rain on your parade but that amp is rated at 1000 watts. you are not doubling power by running it at .5 either. I wont even touch on the aspect that you will never be able to supply enough juice for that thing at .5 either. class a amp current draw will be through the roof and beyond.

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i hate to rain on your parade but that amp is rated at 1000 watts. you are not doubling power by running it at .5 either. I wont even touch on the aspect that you will never be able to supply enough juice for that thing at .5 either. class a amp current draw will be through the roof and beyond.

have you ever seen these clamped? when my dad had his 4 15's in his f250 running 1/4 ohm it clamped 4100ish iirc, and yes i know the amp draw is enormous thats why im kinda vearing away from 1/2ohm load....oldschool soundstream has been very well know for under rating there products.....

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ok if you insist. keep on thinking thats the case. when this amp was in its prime 4100 watts was unheard of in an amp of this footprint.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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I doubt it does 4100 rms, especially when it's old school

class_a_10_0_board.jpg

Comparing to a modern 3500 rms amp

SAZ-3500D_Internal.jpg

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