pmena Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 First of all I'd like to thank everybody on this forum since its helped me so much. Now here's the deal, I did some work and am getting paid with a 99 or 00 Buick Century or Regal and I won't to do something kinda crazy that nobody around me has done. I have 12 12" Kicker CVRs and 3 Autotek 1500 Watt RMS amps from my other 2 cars which will be getting a new system with better subs, amps, etc... Anyways, I am planning on taking the back seat out of the Buick and build the loudest system I can with what I have. So my dimensions from the back seat are 54" door to door, 34" floor to ceiling, and 23" in depth. I wanted to do all 12 in there just because nobody I know has the many subs in a car. But if it would be louder with just 8, or even just 4, subs then I'll do that. I think I have the measurements there to put all 12 if I went sealed in separate chambers with 1.04 cu ft per sub. I was hoping to go ported because I'm going for super loud! So I came out with measurement of 8 subs forward facing in separate chambers of 2 cu ft tuned to 34hz. Now would there be a better design for what I'm trying to do? Should I put them in one large box instead of separate chambers? I believe I can make it around 22 cu ft that way I've seen walls where the subs aren't visible and there's a huge port coming out into the cabin. Or if I make the box L shaped I think I can add another 8 to 10 cu ft if it extends in to the trunk, but not sure if that's a good idea since boxes are always rectangular or symetrical. Anybody have any ideas? I'm going for the loudest I can with what I have to work with. PS I know CVRs are cheap and I don't want to sell the 12 and get 2 or 4 better subs or anything like that, I just want to work with what I have. Also, I'll make sure I put the electrical to back up everything (batteries, alts, wiring, etc) I really just need help on the box. I'm not looking for something thats practical or anything like that is this just a project I want to do. Thanks in advance for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 No wall Remove back seat box is built in car and goes from back of front seat to end of trunk All 12 facing up, at shelf rear height Port forward in centre So get some more measurement for that and well see how we'll it fits that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmena Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 No wall Remove back seat box is built in car and goes from back of front seat to end of trunk All 12 facing up, at shelf rear height Port forward in centre So get some more measurement for that and well see how we'll it fits that way I just remeasured the area that I can use in the trunk and because of some curves I can only go 14" High, 33.5" Wide, 44.5" Deep. So if I add the depth to the 23" I have in the cabin then I'm at 14" x 33.5" x 67.5" which puts me at 15.278 cu ft total not including sub displacement, bracing, and port area so I don't think that will work for 12 . I have a rough draft of the complete dimensions if I did a wall including the trunk area but I'm not sure how to attach it on here. Its a total of 23 cu ft not including a port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 You'll need to build most in car When inside rear seat area open it up to 50-54" And go up to height of rear shelf so there's you 14" up to 18-20 as you seat is out and it goes down You'll also have you foot well area as well And if you need to you can line the with Polly fill or acoustic fome As long as you can fit 12 accross the top it will work You can even use aero port I save trying to build a port in the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmena Posted January 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 I'm a little confused, so I should have the subs facing up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 yes no wall, subs up pull out rear seat get yourself 3 sheets of 3/4 mdf to start with make the base of box in car to fit the max dimensions on every side from back of trunk( or as close as you can get, remember to allow for amps and batt if you putting back there) forwards and follow the car floor pan down into foot wells and silicon all the joins and cover where you can with another strip/piece of mdf or glass over it box the trunk out, and use 1x1 or slimuar to join the bottom-side and side-top together make it as big as you can through the back wall and built it up to rear shelf height make the top flat so as it goes from base of rear window to back of front seat in seating position and for the front angle it down or keep it straight up/down you should be able to fit 12 across the top if not do 8 and 4 across the front, or 10 and 2 to calculate the tune and port measure as much as you can you wont be able to do it all of course and tune it high and big on the port, to account for the extra net not coverd so the tune and port will become lower/smaller or try to guess what is left and calculate it a bit more closer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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